MilesFox

i wonder if the er27 injector is like the legacy injecter. afterall the xt6 is like an in between ea and ej platoform as if ej parts were prototyped as xt6

where did you place your jacks when you had it apart? subarus have a fixed alignment you didnt undo the tie rods did you? anyway a radius rod that is bent or is loose will allow the wheel to pull on that side

you will have to pry out the old seal to replace it. it wont hurt anything but it could allow contaminates to get into the wheel bearings the bearings will last as long as the seals do, so if you got a bad seal replace it before it ruins the bearings but you may as well do the bearings if its gonna be apart, for peace of mind

an ea82 will fit the same. use an ea82 flywheel or have yours drilled out for the bolt holes the only fitment issue is you have to remove the disrtributor to install the motor, so it clears the master cylinder. then put it back in and there you be!

it fell out of the outer bearing seal. i assume you found this after rmoving the rotor? anyway its what holds the seal tight against its sealing surface you should replace that seal and inspect the bearings

for each side, get a whole axle, an inner and outer bearing(both the same) and an inner and outer bearing seal(both different) may as well do ball joints and brake pads too while you are there or you can rebuild the axles yourself, get boots and clamps. the inner side can be disassembled, but the outer side take special proceduure. you would have better luck with new axles, unless you know how to rebuild them

you can spend less anfix your seals on the existing motor. they will last as long as as a new motor would until its seals will go out. a new motor will need work down the road anyway. for 2000 dollars you can have your existing motor all fixed up and more

yeah 85 had mpfi and mpfi non turbo. 86 2wd had spfi, its the same as 87 and up but the intake harness connectors are different, and one of the pcv hoses goes to the air box instead of the intake boot it has the 85-86 style grille and bumper, but since the mirrors are on the corner instead of on the door itself, that would make it an 86 its probably sitting there with a broken timing belt and nothing more

we changed the wheel bearings and ball joints. actually had to change the whole knuckle because the ball joint bolts were bad, one stripped off and the other one broke. anyway when the axles came off, the one on the passenger side, the axle stub came off the tranny, missing its spring clip. same with the front axle the outer end came apart as well, but i was able to whack it back together(so i guess the front halfs DO caome apart!) anyway we xhanged the axles as well and the car still wanders to the right

check your front diff oil, geatr oil it is , dipstick on the top center of the tranny also look at the driveshaft u joint, my car made a vibrating noise that sometimes would carry over to a whine near the tranny, it would chang4 between 2 and 4wd undill one day it got loud all of a sudden and failed on the highway. i thought the rear diff or axle exploded but the driveshaft u-joint busted, so i kept going till i tied the driveshaft with a coat hanger. got 1000 miles on it like this but im fixing it today

you'll find the timing belt procedure here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 if you have the motor on out of the car, or if you decide to run open belts(no covers) you can use your bare hands to take the slack out of the belts instead of a spanner make sure you follow the crank rotation schedule in the procedure, it is not necessary to remove the disty, even if you have the cam tower off for a re-seal its wise to adjust the tension after a few 1000 miles as the belts will break in and stretch a little oem belts woud be the best, i have seen other maftermarket belts that looked to be decent in quality as well. its recommended that the belts should be changed every 60,000 miles, but the belts *can* last over 100,000 miles if they arent oily from leaky seals and the car is driven regularly. i have seen a 130,000 mile motor with its original factory belts as always, if you have the motor apart enough to do the timing belts you may as well do the engine seals like the crqnk, cams, and oil pump, and water pump. suppose these seals are good and dont need fixed now, if you opt to go with open belts, you could fix htem later without having to remove near as much stuff, that is crank pulley and dipstick if you were to do the water pump and oil pump later any time i post about timing belts i always suggest running open belts. i myself and others have this setup and have had no problems over many 1000's of miles. some will say it saves you time if you break a belt to fix it(20 min rather than 2hours) and some will argue that it poses a risk for belt failure from debris. its a matter of opinion i guess. the only reported failure was from a loose rag under the hood getting caught around the crank pulley, and yet on my car i lost my oil cap just to find it riding on the belt near the water pump 1000 miles later, showing the belts are not too sensitive to debris. so these scenarios reflect both extremes of opinions anyway good luck and enjoy

aside from being a performance build, i would leave it the way thT IT IS FOR A DAILY DRIVER. OOPS I SNEEZED AND HIT THE caps lock anyway it shouldnt be much hassle taking the pistons out to check the rings. but its one of those things where you could just leave it alone, and if you are going to get into it a little bit you may as well get into all of it and do a complete rebuild taking advantage o the opportunity

coolant pushing out may be a sign of a blowing head gasket, blowing combustion gasses into the cooling system. running it hot would be aggrqvating the issue. the fact she got hot to begin with may have been a blown head gasket to begin with what i would say is buckle down and fix everything that could go wrong at onece. im sure its exasperating to fix one thing to have something else go wrong, especially if you are fixing what doenst need fixed and overlooking what does. dont trash this car it will be a good one for you, but it may need a head gasket now you have gotten it hot, its not much to try to fix it yourself, less than 100 bucks in parts if you go about it the right way do some more reading here there are ways around a head gasket job that will get you by, or even eliminate the head gasket as a problem. i would suggest taking care of the coolant leaks right away, and run staight water if your climate doesnt get below freezing till you solve your problem. if in fact its a head gasket on its way out you may be able to get away with block sealer. i have tried it and it worked till i went flogging the pyoss out o my ride with no fans anyway good luck, dont throw your car into the ocean!

sounds lile a loose axle nut, but you said you tiightened them. but since they were loose and driven on it may have worn a wheel bearing now they are tight. tighten them again and if the noise is still there investigate the wheel bearings. are the bearings new when you did the axle or are they the old ones?

about 27.5 last calculations, stock motor and coil, cherry bomb at the y and straight 2 inch pipe. 65-70 mph average speed, that is 60 for some stretches and 75 for other stretches, fort wayne to columbus and back i have a different exhaust setup now and am in the middle of another calculation, fixed a wheel bearing and such, hoping for 30 mpg

for 1500 bucks you can find yourself a turbo ea82 subaru, or the parts to swap a turbo into yours say you find a turbo car already you can part yours out for the 4wd tranny ansd such. so many options to explore....

bust it all off and do away with it. or at least tkae off the plastic and leave it off. cause invitabley you will have to do timing belts and engine seals. it will save you HOURS of work to do these repais witht eh absence ov covers. no reliability issues. a 3 hour timing belt job can be done with 2 sockets and 10 minutes without the covers i serviced a car and seen that corner pf the cover that overlaps the water pump was broken off by someone else. no harm in doing so. i suggest taking all of them off, do the timing belts while you are there, and remove the inner plastics as well

its like hauling off to another state no more than a few days from putting a motor together into a car that hadnt run in a year. fun!

www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingblet.htm print this out and take it with you! easy instructions for on-site repair of the timing belts

also the outer rim of the inner circumfrence of the nut is staked, you will have to bend it back out before you turn it. so far i haent got any loose myself... try a propane torch, let heat and cool, use pb blaster, do this a few times to worlk it loose

the spring is there tp oretty much take the slack out of the belt as you install it. once you tighten the tensioner bolts the spring is just there, the tension is on the bolts. tou can push down on the tensioner pulley the same as you tighten it as well

i would use the spfi or carb cams, as they have valve overlap for scavenging. wheras a turbo cam has little overlap otherwise boost would blow out the exhaust if you used turbo cams for n/a it would lug great pulling trailers at 2000 rpm but would be a dog at higher rpm. it would be ideal for an open header(no y pipe) for lower rpm power carb and spfi would have different rpm curves. right now i am running spfi cams and heads with a carb motor i would say get some numbers betwen carb and spfi cams. i think one is a 4500 rpm cam and one is a 5500 rpm cam, but dont know which is which kep in mind a carb motor has less compression than spfi, so i wonder if that would factor into the cam duration? spfi has 9.5 compression same as n/a mpfi just my suggestions but the turbo cam in a carb motor i know about from my own experimenting

there are an inner and outer bearing for 4wd. you would need a special socket to remove the retainer on the back side to drive out the old bearing with a drift. i take it your car is 4wd. 2wd would hae a spindle and conventional bearings. anyway the vortex (xt6 in usa) although is a 5 lug set up, the rear suspension is like that of the ea82 leone (loyale usa) the front is like the leone with the caliper, but a legacy knuckle will fit, but you will lose the front parking brake

well if you dont have big dollars to spend start witht he basics: star with the exhaust. ditch the stock muffler and run your own lengths of pipe. on my car i hacve a cherry bomb immediately after the y pipe flange, and 2 inch back to a 80 deg bend out the side, where it expands 2o 2.5 inch for sound. idles quiet but has a deep mellow tone, snarls when revved! a little on the anti-rice as far as sound is concerned this retained the in town driveability but lets the rpms open a little and improves highway driing, economy and throttle response with the exhaut opened up you can open the intake a little, that is either cut the bottom of the air box out or go with a cone filter. i guess the auto zone "throttle body adapter" in the import performance aisle will fit the subaru MAF and get a hotter coil, an accel super stock will do, and gap your plugs out to .050, and use quality wires. advance the timing up a few degrees, watch for pinging, and run a mid to premium grade gas. this is no big step but you will notice it and you will optimise the stock engine setup, and if you go aftermarket for cams and such at least you have a good base to support it

try checking or replacing the ignition amplifier module. this sevice takes the signal from the ecu to fire the coils. its located centrally on the firewall and is flat and somewhat squareish triangle shaped, wide flat plug in with several wires