MilesFox

ok iluvdirt is planning for some campground/off roading site, we need to know who is definate on showing at this moment. lets post a head count. once we know what to expect accomodations will be met accordingly MilesFox 4x4 conversion sedan, 87 rx trash3door thealleyboy alleywagon '04 86subaru 86 brat weber tomrhere iluvdirt noahdl88 cissubaru myoss feece and possibly zanny dook trashwagon 6 and the implaza anyone else add yourself to the list. any of you on the list if you find you cant make it post hre before memorial day. remember the meet is all weekend, with the off roading on mainly on saturday oh yeah post what soob you will be bringing

sounds like you scored some points with the ol' lady. keep her happy and remind her that the back seats fold down:banana:

yeah sorry about the clutch, it came from a junkyard xt i did notice the heat marks. hearing the disengage issue made me think pressure plate related. tom offered his set first maybe we just went too fast its like building legos, you build something big, but the little pieces keep falling off. but eventually you get it all put together. i know how "project daily driver" can be but its much easier when you have more than one car. if you had 3 cars you would find yourself swapping the same part between whatever car you will be driving for the day.

yo my car does the same thing, but dim on both hi and lo. been too lazy to check it out. ol skip saves the day. where are the relays? you think i would know already being miles fox, but like i said im lazy..like a fox

turbo heads, as they are dual parot you will need them to match the intake. you can bolt up a turbo to the single port heads on the exhaust side, but you will have to fab up all the ductwork and good luck with one injector running boost with high compression may present issues. if you are going high compression you will want mild boost, as the compression will make up for the low end power not to say you cant turbo an spfi but you will have to do your home work if you want it to work reliably i suggest using turbo cams also as the n/a cams would have too much valve overlap and all your boost will go past the exhaust valve

yeah i have seen high pedals and stiff cluthes from over tightened clutch cables. this stresses the cable and wears on teh pressure plate, over extending it my rule of thumb is to adjust the cable just till it takes the slack out, but not enough to pull back on the fork. the you can adjust the nut a few turns to set your pedal, but no more! i hat ehigh pedals as i like to keep my foot rested on the floor, heel on floor clutch with my toe. a high pedal i would have to hover my leg in the air, very awkward. the clutch should engage no sooner than you start to release the padal

take off the driver side timing belt cover. turn the crank till the 3 III marks come up on the flywheel, and the driver side cam is pointing up. now since you are there, turn the crank clockwise till the odeg btdc mark comes up. now put in the disty. the rotor will point to the farthest back terminal on the cap, to the right of the screw. the rotor goes counter clockwise 1,3,2,4 1 is the front piston on the passenger side

i have had cars so rusty that anyone else would have junked them being too afraid of the matter. rust so bad that the framerails were goen enough for one of the radius rod bolts to not mount to, the floor in back where it curves up rusted out and wires poking thru like john said looks can be deceiving, say rusty on the outside and solid underneath, or solid outside and gone underneath. my sedan has hles rusting thru the upper rear quarter and the wheel arches are half gone, but the underside is rock solid. this car is worth patching up the others being so far gone are no hope, but i would drive them anyway, for the fact they run. run them into the ground till the wheels fall off! no the car wont fall apart or fold in half. the worst example was the rear suspension started to torque away, causing a bind in the u-joint angle. but this was from off-roading. parted the car off to use the parts, not because the car wasnt driveable(or fixable-[hillbilly style welding fixes]

yeah if you run open belts, it saves you from having to remove the crank pulley and dipstick to change them. it keeps you from having to do all that and the covers to do the water pump the only reported failure from open belts was from a rag under the hood. my car. i invented the open belts, well, i preech it anyway. never had a problem off road mud grass gravel rocks railroads, airborne and the like. just dont keep rags under the hood, and if you do, stuff them somewhere! i remove all the covers, avery but except for the piece behind the idler pulley, as that area is the only part of the belts that are exposed from behind without it www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm look at the pictures for what a naked belt looks like, the cam timing marks will line up to the gasket seam on the valve covers

yo i will see if i can find a pilot bearing here at jims. i do remember pointing out the bad one on the flywheel, but we forgot all about it when it was time to put it together... so was the disc stuck to the input shaft? how is the disc? if there is anything you need i will see what i can find here, let me know by tomorrow. i can go to toms next weekend cause he was unable to make it here to jims this weekend, so if i get things wrapped up right away i will set out early. if you need to get to toms let me know i have to go there sometime to get my keys and my battery

if it were to drop a valve seat the worst that would happen is a valve would stick open. the engine is non interference so that wont hit the pistons anyway we had this rx witha rod knock, ran fine other wise. pulled the heads and had cracks between the valves, down to the valve guides. but that didnt stop me from porting them and putting them on a higher compression block, the motor has seen 10,000 miles since then..................

DAMMIT yo its almost finished! i can come over after jims, i need to go to toms anyway to get my keys and some things i left in the sedan. if we are going to end up taking out the motor/tranny to inspect things, i DO have a fwd 5spd at jims, its the one that came from an 82 glf ea81 hardtop. i can bring that if you want to consider going that route if it means going that route to get you back on the road, so be it, the rest can come later at least you have all the parts i will be at jims thro today, looks like tom wont be making it down there tomorrow so i will swing by on my way up. probably not working on monday till night time dont abandon the project right yet, but lets get you back on the road whatever it takes did you figure out the clutch problem yet or not?

undo the water inlet hose from the metal tube on the side of the head. the oil line comes off at the back of the head, 14mm bolt. dont lose the copper washers! the turbo mounting bracket itself can be removed from the head to help the rubber hose clear

hey i think i remember the pilot bearing was bad or was that on the other flywheel? suppose it seized? dammit! i will have to come over and take a look something doesnt sound right. last i knew of someones tranny doing this it was pressure plate related. if you get to it before i could come it wopuldnt hurt to pull the motor, jack the tranny up first, the only difficulty we had putting it together is no tranny mount! too bad with all the bad luck, i could stop over sunday after jims. i may not have to work monday so keep that open and i will see about coming over i need to download yahoo messenger so if you need to hollar send a PM or email milesfox@yahoo.com

those heads are still good, cracks between the valves are a normal feature oin ea82. even if they go down to the valve guides they are ok. what would be bad if the cracks are gapped open, allowing a valve seat to drop. what you can do for preventative measure is close the cracks with a punch or drift, and stake the valve seats in chances are that if you go junking for another set of heads they too will have the same cracks beware of cracks in the exaust port on the bottom of the head, as this is where the water passages are in the head, and cracks there will allow coolant loss out the exhaust, but otherwise still run fine, no water in oil

i would like to make it. after may would be ideal for me as i will be tied up with the alliance meet. des moines sounds good as i have a vehicle in iowa that i need to bring back with me

a slack timing belt can cause backlash at the cam which drives the distributor, prevalent under load. check the timing belt tension sounds like the spark plugs are strupped, they should be only hand tight and 1/8 turn after having coolant spit out the cap could be a sign of combustion gasses leaking into the radiator over pressurizing it. you can run with the cap off to get you by if it becomes too much of a problem you may want to conseider a haead gasket job, and replace or re tap the head with the stripped plugs

place a jack under the front of the tranny and raise it up till the engine mounts come out of their holes. that way the weight of the tranny wont bind up on the bottom engine studs. there are a dowel pin on each side of the bellhousing, if you use a screwdriver and tap it in from the sides to separate like wedge action. sometimes a motor that has never been separated from the tranny can be difficult to separate. other than that, you have everything undone. make sure the torque converter stays with the tranny, as sometimes it will stick to the motor in the pilot hole there is plenty of room to jack up the tranny, take ut ip till it hits against the tunnel if you wish also, jack the tranny up to install the motor as well. the dowels should come off with the motor, if one sticks to the tranny you can drive it out with a drift and install it to the motor before re-installation. use anti seize on the dowels also

try checking the wiring in the door itself, between the window harness and the switch itself. so you know the swithc and motors are good i find that if any of the doors are unplugged from the body harness, none of the windows will work. if one switch on one door is disconnected then that window wont work from the master switch. seeing that you have only one window not working i would check for continuity from the switch plug in to the body plug in if you havent already

donor. you can hotwire the green wire on the fan to get it to work, the speed settings will work also. but fan blows out the vents in the off position

slip the clutch into the dump so the revs stay 3500+ bump the timing up and run premium. make cheap premium by adding a gallon or 2 of kerosene to a full tank of regular. drive in lo range!

i did jims bearings by hand, they have held up, but the main thing about it is it has new bearing seals. the bearings will last as long as the seals if thay are installed properly. ince the seal goes bad then the bearings get contaminated, thus failing the bearings will bottom out in their seats, so tap/press them in as far as they go. as the axle and hub comes together it will also squeeze the bearings in as you torque the axle nut

what about the tranny?

well if you didnt have insurance at least no one saw or knows about it. if you dont owe on the car you shouldnt have to claim. anyway, if the tree fell on the car you could probably claim "act of god" on the insurance. but if theres no police report that may be hard to do check the oil pressure sending wire, check anyhting that may have come loose from impact. are the suspensions bent?