MilesFox

im assuming you have the hitachi compressor, big round one on the inside of the alternator. if you take off the compressor there will be enough of the bracket to run the alternator by itself, although it will appear to be floating on the left side. ask tomrhere about the setup, his 82 brat came this way with an ea82 engine, you will have to get a different belt to make up for the absence of the compressor, tom should have a goodyear part number for the belt

let it cool off and check the coolant. there may be an air pocket in the cooling system, sometimes its tricky to get it all out the motor in this car came from me out of trashwagon 6, i helped install the motor along with the 5spd conversion, i got it from jim wood in sidney oh also check the rubber hose between the intake and the block, it comes off the thermostat housing the motor that came out of your car is alive and well in my buddy roberts car, and the tranny went into a sedan for sale at a used car lot in st marys ohio

my buddy put rear speakers in his loyale, the wiring was already there. also, under the dash there is a plug for a map lite if you chose to install one. you ill have to cut a hole in the headliner but the mount is there behind it wiring will also be present for power windows and locks if the car does not have them already

the holes in reference are on the side of the exhaust port, on carbs it runs up to the back of the head. on spfi this hole is not present, so you will have to block it. one cheap way i did such a thing was to cut the pipe ff and weld a bolt or spark plug in the inch length of pipe i left there is an egr port on the top of the passenger head, its the same between carb ans spfi so everything will fit the same if using the carb heads keep the spfi cam and tower to bolt on top of the head

sorry i forgot to describe the add on ac. jim had a wagon i serviced with the add on ac, if i remember it had the long water pump anyway it had i big fat rear compressor, it had some relays on the passenger strut tower that took regular aftermarket instead of the factory brown an black relays. also the hoses from the compressor where they turned metal to rubber had a clamp that looked like a modified heater hose clamp, whereas factory setups have the metal to rubber crimped like any other hose like the brake line or ps line the bracketry was stamped steel and had a square hole for a 1/2 drive, you had to do swing the compressor out of the way to remove the alt or the belt. factory setups have cast iron braketry. and also the alternaor was mounted inboard on this one factory ac the compressors are fixed mountsd and the add on the compressor swings away like an alternator to service the belts just like add on cruise it just doesnt look right as if it was added on, or the components didnt look subaru enough

sorry to be so down on the idea but i am telling you from my own experiences. i tried this once and will ot do it again. as i pulled the motor out farther i had to keep raising the car, the crane only goes so high before you have to shorten the chain. anyway it took me several attempts to finally wrestle the whole thing out i dont think it was designed to go that way anyway. as you tear into a subaru you can tell how it wants you to take it apart by the way its put together!

check the engine codes a thte ecu described in USRM>miscellaneous. my buddy's car disd the grumbling idle and pulled a crank angel sensor code. it was fine but on some days it would not stat. he put the motor in another car and it died right away. replacing the distibutor fixed the problem there are a lot of factors considering how the car runs but SPFI is very simple for fuel injection and the engine codes will hit the nail on the head with whats going on

i determine how often i change my oil by knowing when it was las changed, knowing what the car has seen (baja'n, weather, how long it sits or how often its driven) color, how it fels between my fingers, and i smell the oil for gas or burnt smells im not religious on ghanging the oil, but if i know it has been a while then i will. if i get a new car or motor i change the oil anyway. if my motor leaks than i know it gets a mix of fresh oil often, self changing oil as you will. i had this pinto once that burned and leaked oil out of every seam, i was dumpng anyhig from used oil from car lots to chainsaw bar oil, i cnanged the filter once but not the whole oil. it was so bad it used 3 GALLONS of chainsaw bar oil in one 150 mile trip. i even took the oil out of my 84 soob to go to work anyway i try to keep consistent whith what i use, i like napa/wix fiters and fid the napa house brand(valvoline) oils economical, from straigh tto blend to syn. i have 10-30 napa syn in th erx now. the sedan has valvoline blend but it needs an oil change because zanny dook drove this car, his driving habits, and all the baja'n!

blow it out with compressed air

the outer end of the axle fits on a splined spindle with a roll pin. you dont have to pop the spindle out like a font axle. if you can get the diff out of the car, whack the insode of the DOJ away from the diff with a 3 lb hammer. rotate and whack, repeat. find a hammer that is beveled on one side so you dont hit the diff as you swing. a propane toch and PB blaster works quite well

if you ever have another confrontation Quote This Fox "If you have a problem lets take it off-road!" i wonder how many of these people in fancy cars even know how to drive them to their potential, or even handle the car? i could spank rump roast in my carbbed RX just for drivung technique alone(urban driving within 45mph, outmaneuverability) all the ricers hang out at the old hires and there i am actually working on my car, drawing a crowd. broke out the welder till i realized there was no electricity on the wall socket. and the biggest truck there wont take my offer to go baja'n behind k-mart.

knock the timing back a few degrees to be safe, since that is what the knock sensor does anyway

1. if you have to pull a head take the motor out, as its less fristrating and actually faster to take the motor out than to headache yourself with the motor in the car. however a headmay ost depends on your method of getting one. i have them falling out of my rump roast, so if i need one i hit up my stash. if you know others with soobs, and have a decent stash, you can trade for one. i couldnt tell you how much one woule be at a parts store, if they even have them. your best bet would be to hit the junkyard, one that doesnt itemize a price for every little thing, go somewhere you can haggle and put cash on the table before you get yout part. as far as the yard its not necessary to pull the motor to get the heads, bring an assortment of 17mm tools to get the head off, so your tools wont run into the valve springs tying to loosen them 2. sounds like lifter noise. no worry its nothing the car will up and fail over. bottom end noises will come and go according to load one ay or the other. try replacing the oil pump seals 3. turn it to the right to advance, as the rotor goes counter clockwise. all the way is about 20-25 deg, i like to run spfi at about 22 deg 4. i invented open belts. trust me the speculative rock or depbris issue is very unlikely to happen. i ran out wst on mix and match used belts, no problem. went baja'n no problem. put the motro in another car ad drove daily, went baja'n through weeds taller than the car, mud, gravel, you name it, no problem. then i let my buddy drive and the car quit, would you know the only reported belt failure from open belts was due to a loose rag under the hood. ixed it in 10 minutes. i always preach open belts because hey, if you break a belt you can fix it in 10 min with a ratche and 2 sockets, thats all. and if you ever have to change a seal, water pump, or service th eoil pump it saves you a LOT of time by not having to take abunch of crap off the motor. leave the one piee of plastic behind the idler pulley ias it is the only section of belt that would otherwise be exposed from the back side. cut of the part that overlaps the oil pump sp you can remove it without having to take that one piece off 5. if you know what right to do an engine can be pulled in under an hour. for spfi get under the car first and drop the exhaust, unbolt the motor mounts, and drain any coolant at the radiator and the plugs on the heads. then go up top and remove the gound wire from the water pipe, undo the spfi harness, the disyt wie, and the throttle cable. the pull the heater hoses from the motor end. then remove the clutch fan, undo the lower radiator hose form the motor end, and the upper from the radiator end. you can leave the electric fan on the rad if you get the right angle to pull the radiator. it will be tigh t around the ps lines, yuk the upper hose behind the oil fill tube. disconnect the fuel lines , then the bellhousing bolts an you are good to go. leave the starter in and the battery cables connected to it. the groud cable fits on a bracket that has the top bolt go throug it, so dont forget it when you put the motor back in. oh yeah, take out the pitch bar 6. the fuel filter for spfi is under the hood near the strut tower, big canister looking thing. it should be there stock, if not it has been removed. when going back together the fuel line off the filter connects to the BOTTOM fitting on the throttle body

i worked as maintenance at a truck stop and found all kinds of bottles of pee and ziplock bags of dook the truckers would toss behind their trucks as they parked for the night. i would have rather found the dook on the ground, where i wouldn have had to pick it up, let nature recycle it. pornos with stuck pages too. them truckers

pulling the whole shabang can be a pain in the rump roast. first you have to take off the starter. then you have to try to hoist the whole works out at a good 45 degree angle, while dripping gear olil all over you ride as the rig gets hung up on the spare tire well. it s really not a time saving feature and it can actuall take you longer and be more headache. and on top of all that you will probably find yourself having to jack the car WAY in the air to get the 45 degree angle without the tail end of the tranny dragging the ground and hanging up. if the spare tire wasnt under the hood and the firewall wasnt designed like it is then it would seem reasonable, but trust me, its not the way to go with a SUBARU the entire frame can be dropped out the bottom in the time it takes to pull the motor itself, if say you were swapping 4wd into a 2wd i would pull the motor first, then take the trans out the top as well. you can leave the crossmember on the tranny doing this. this is easiest. if you take the tranny out the bottom jack the car on its side so the bellhousing will come out of the trans tunnel, you will hae more clearance this way if the origin of your question has to do with pulling the motor forward enough to get it out, jack up the tranny so the motor lifts up out of its motor mount holes on the crossmember if you really want some on eto tell you to take the motor and tranny out together, "Yes you can do it but its a pain in the rump roast"

why a plug? the knock sensor fits into a boss on the engine casting, there is nothing in the hole to plug. even NA blocks have the same boss

87 and up bumpers are styrofoam insude, so if you mount something to it the crew wll only bite through the top skin 85 and a6 bumpers are metal inside, so you can mont something to it i have a light bar i made from a shortened ea81 roof rack spar, and my lights are mounted to it, the spar mounts to the bumper

if you find yourself having to drive the car run STRAIGHT WATER in the radiator to keep from tearing up the bottom end, run with the cap off if she pukes. i had to do this for several 300 mile round trips you can get a block sealer from napa but the instructions call for using it with clean water, run for 20 min, drain and let dry. this worked for 2 of my cars, one lasted till it overheated it again on atv trails with no fan. anyway it will buy you time to get around for the head gasket repair

if you wanted to do all this with a non turbo tranny, say a 4wd d/r, 23 spline, you can swap the 23 spline "fat doj" fom a TURBO 3AT axle, ithas the larger diameter doj that will fit on a legacy axle, but it has 23 spline for the non turbo, non full time trannies but only the 3at turbo axle doj will fit on the legacy/impreza/xt6 axle, for 23 spline if you cant find an xts lower controlarm you can drill the ball join hole out, if you do so just make a stepped hole with different sized drill bits, to simulate the taper, as i did on my 5 lug gl-10

1/2 would be ideal. i made mine from 3/8" before i knew about the 12mm difference, starter ws too close. anyway going half inch if you are a millimeter off try putting a flexplate "hub" behind the flywheel to space it about about 1 mm

shift at a piont where the rpms land around 3500 in the next gear, dont be afraid to take it to 4500 between shifts. subarus have a short throw crank and the power comes on between 3000 and 4000 rpm if you are shifting at like 2-2500 rom the motor will just not touch its powerband one example is baja'n in mud. to the floor at 25oo and nothing exciting, bog bog bog. but if you can bog your way up to 3-3500 rpm in the same mud the tachometer takes off like a roket anyway i make laps in the field all day at 5500 rpms and the mtor doesnt complain i coudl agree with not wanting to break the old timing belt. you can get the rpms up and be ok just be gradual

there are 3 actory ac setups, as well as the dealer add on setups. the hitachi setup has the big round compressor, the matsu************a has the square compressor with outboard alternator, and the panasonic has a square compressor with the inboard alt i find the inboard alt setup commonly on 87 era turbos depending on these setups you willhav a short or long water pump let me put it nice and somple right here: ---the long water pump is 110 mm, it has studs on the pump itself and the pulley slides onto the studs, then the fan ---the short water pump is 105 mm, the pulley itself BOLTS to the water pump, and the fan studs are on the pulley itself so if you take the fan off and the pulley comes off too you have the 110mm pump. if you see bolts after taking the fan off you have the 105mm now heres a secret. you can use either or water pump on any motor as long as you have the right pulley to go with it

you will want to adjust the clutch so the cable takes the free playu out of the fork, but does not exert pressure on it. once the nut id hand tight you can turn it a few times and be right on. the tighter you make the cable the higher the clutch engages off the floor, if it s too tight it stresses the pressure plate and cable, so it only needs to be tigh enough to take the slack out i like th eclutch so it engages immediately off the floor, i keep my heel on the floor when working the clutch , i dont like to hover my whole leg for a high pedal make sure the clutch cable is where you want it before adjusting the hill holder cable

sorry to post too late, but if you didnt have a welder, i have seen a soup can and hose clamps as an exhaust patch!

timing belt is pretty much the only thing that can go wrong. make sure your cooling system is in good working order. take a spare thermostat and a jug of coolant. going into altitude in the mountains will make the cooant more likely to boil over if you do the timing belts i recommed leaving all the plastic covers of, so in the event of a belt failure you can fix it of the side of the road in minutes. if you install new belts keep the old ones as spares, you will only need one ratchet, one 12mm socket, and one 22mm or 7/8" socket to make the repair, open belts of course put on your best tires and take a spare, if not 2. keep a gas can with gas for emergency fuel up when going through the more desolate regions like dakota dont pass up any gas stations. if you are 1/2 full and see one tank up, exits can be 50 mile apart, and any town or gas could be 50 miles from the exit take a basic of tools with you, screwdrivers, pliers, wire cuters, spare wire, 10, 12, 14mm wrenches and or sockets. make sure you have a jack and anything to change a tire, in the dark even. any kind of cb radio would be ideal also keep basic survival aids like drinking water and non perishable food, blankets, clothing to keep warm should you be stranded somewhere cold which way do you plan to go? i suggest keeping off the toll roads around chicago, you can catch the 80/90 at the joliet ill. interchange. if you take us 30 from the west side of ohio you can stop by jims or my place for a pit stop. i have made the trip so if you want suggestions which way to go, how far things are apart, i can lend my expertise. somewhere i have a log of my miles and times between stops. pace yourself and dont get tired behind the wheel, dont rush and enjoy the trip! are you going through iowa or the northern states?