MilesFox

i favor a pick, i can use the curved one to slide it under the seal lip and pull it out, the pick catches on the inside of the steel. sometimes i will use a small screwdriver but im careful about what im prying against, technique

but also disc brakes can be swapped on to non turbo models the same

the most important thing about this is removing the bolts. sometimes they are hard to turn due to corrosion, be caeful not to twist them off! use slow and even torque to loosen them, be careful as you dont want to turn the bolt faster than it can unthread. it may feel like its turning but really the bolt is flexing, so be careful. if the bolys give you a hard time work them back and forth to clean the threads off as it comes out. use anti-seize on the threads, clean the treads off with a brush, i find a wire wheel works best, but you can use your fingernail and turn the bolt to clear the threads if you dont have many tools i would recommend not bothering with the intake gaskets if there is nothing wrong, unless you are experienced enough to know what to expect about the bolts. i have broken a few myself so i know what to expect. but you dont want to develop your learning curve on your daily! practice on junk motors or at the junkyard till you get the technique down. you might have to actually break one to know how much torque is too much

what i would have to say is if you can manage to change an axle yourself the wheel beqrings go right along with it. just be careful with the drift punch to install them, use a large socket to tap them in as long as you can spread the forces across the races evenly. yorquing up the axle nut will seat the bearings all the way. i can see alleyboys point, but for economical reasons if they wouldnt hold up as long as using a press, its still cheaper to do it again later than to pay a shop for the first time

you can use a cutting wheel, a file, or hacksaw blade, or similar tool to make a slot on the headless bolts to turn them out with a flat screwdriver

i saw one go from the dealer for 70 bucks so be careful where you get it from as far as price goes

i know this guy, goes as ROOBAFLU on the board, i watched him convert the 4 headlights to round the grille and bezels will fit the same, but the metal between the hole for the quats were cut out, the metal was bent and shaped a little to use tapping screws to hold it still the 2 plugs for each set of lights, you plug both of them to one light to get the high lo beam functions, aske roobaflu for insight, he may take a picture for you

yeah its tapered, it holds still with tourque like caleb said put a jack under the tie rod and let it put some tension to hold the works still, once the nut starts to torque down she will hold on her own. nothing is wrong with it thats just how it fits together

hey the price sounds good for the condition of the car. looks like you got a solid ride, knowing the owner and maintenance histories go a long way. some people would pay more if they knew what they were getting

paint it white, or another lighter color, and paint the roof, trunk, and the middle raised part of the hood satin black. i think that would look good

since your car was automatic your axles will be correct for a dual range 4wd tranny i would agree to go with the mt conversion, i would suggest a dual range but any non turbo mt will work. if you use turbo trannies you will need turbo axles in the front i take it your ride is 4wd, so you will have to swap out the driveshaft and the rear diff to match a 5spd non turbo tranny. if you select a turbo tranny and the axles, you can keep the rear diff and change out the driveshaft only your car has a 3.7 final gear. all 85-86 3at has a 3.7 gear, as well as ALL turbo 3at. later 87 and up non turbo 3at has a 3.9 rear. the non turbo tranny also has a 3.9 gear. turbo manuals have a 3.7 gear. if you look on the back of the diff a tag will be there displaying the gear ratio now, single range pushbutton trannies from turbo and non have a vacuum actuation, so all of that will need swapped, solenoids and such. BUT the dual range tranny has a direct linkage to the 4wd with a lever so to sum it up, if you go with manual tranny here is what you need tranny flywheel/clutch setup, flywheel bolts to crank tranny crossmember. the at is located different, you remove 2 body bolts from the car and use the longer bolts with the MT mount in their place, so keep the bolts wit the crossmember driveshaft. the mt is shorter thus you need to swap the driveshaft. its 2 pieces, but the rear half is the same with at and mt diff. you need one with the same gear as the tranny pedal assembly. get the pedal assembly with the clutch cable still attached put it together and drive!

bring some spare parts if anything needs fixed we can do it at the meet. go get some new timing belts and we can put them on, and anything else while were at it i drove to columbus just a few days after putting the sedan together. did some work changing a seal and the water pump and drove home. if you trust your timing belts dont expect anything bad. top off the coolant and bring a spare tire

aside from wiring in a new harness and ecu, the fuel pump and its lines are the same, fit the same. you can swap the crossmember from the rx, may as well swap the whole suspensions, since the rx has an exclusive suspension package. you also need to use the rx axles with its tranny to match the spline as far as the tranny the same crossmember, clutch/flywheel, and driveshaft on the loyale now will fit the rx tranny. the center console is swappable, wire the diff lock switch to the wire for the loyale 4wd button. the 4wd is activated by vacuum on the loyale, and the same system and components work the diff lock on the rx. so all you have to do is connect the tranny to the vac lines and there is a working diff lock. you need to swap the rx shifter over as well, so you will ose the 4wd button shifter, you can use its wire to splice in the diff lock, or just let the old shift knob hang under the seat and use it. the 4wd lite will still come on and it will represent the diff lock you will have to swap over the rear diff for the gear, plus you gain lsd. you can use the existing axles so use the best of all 4. you can swap on the disc brakes but i sayt swap the whole trailing arms with the brakes in one piece, and this will have the mounts for the rear sway bar. swap over the rear coils but i think rx and wagon coils are the same in back

sounds like the shift linkage is tweaked. shift the car to park, get under the car and locate the linkage on the tranny. the lever should be all the way forward, if the rod is bent the shifter will be off from the tranny itself i had a 2wd 3at dl sedan, took it off road and park was hard to hit, the gears seemed to be in between the numbers on the shifter, was a bent linkage, easy to fix

yo forget about towing it to the shop, have the mechanic come to you! akron ohio is not too far from ol jim wood, if you know what im getting at.

the 88 rx has an optical disty, so the vac advance only applies to 85-86 models there are 2 screws that hold the throttle body in place, the holes are slotted and you can clock the mechanism one way or the other whats inside is an idle switch and a WOT switch, take off the sensor and shake it, if it rattles toss it and get another one check the idle and WOT switch per instructions in the haynes manual, chapter 6 engine emissions and controls, throttle pos sensor

you know i dont have aything to reference but i would bet that everything uses all the same parts, if you have a carb block then there you go if you are rebuilding it then yeah i can see the point but the part numbers are probably the same

its a switch fort he tranny kickdown for when u floor it.

you can identify the axle by the bands on the outer end of the shaft, one band is 2wd and two bands is 4wd. on ea82's turbos have 3 bands and are fatter the inner jointdoes slide back and forth sh you should bottom them out to compare lengths ea82 axles are 2 in longer than ea81

maybe the throttle pos. sensor is bad. try checking the codes if your car is 4wd is should have the adjastable struts for 85-86 4wd to blow up the truck get it stuck then try to get out.

well we can make the event for the whole weekend, you and john live in columbus, and i can be there for the whole weekend myself, maybe jim too. but anyway if one day of the weekend wasnt good for some people thay caould always come the next day, any one of 3 days. so lets make it official, the meet will be may 28-30, with saturday being the main day if we could off road only one day, and sun or mon being alternative days for anyone who cant come saturday, or whatever else we may do any opinions on this? the one in butler the out of state guys stayed the night for the whole event. i say if you come from so far may as well stick around, not to be so quick to leave

no worry we are all one big happy family. i was just at jims and johns this weekend, and even tom met us at jims. in a car i just put together and there on a bad crank seal and back all fixed up. going to vincents tomorrow, that will be all of us from the area have met with this weekend

yeah this could bind when turning but this would not be a problem on an appropriate surface that you would use 4wd on my post leans more towards thery of how the system than practical use. but in an emergency if odd tires is all you had then what i posted would be the recommendation if you had a flat in the woods and your spare was the wrong size, you can still use the 4wd since the open diff will absorb the difference, that is, 2 of the tires one on the rear and one on the front will still be the same size. going with 2 odd tires they need to be the same size to eachother, and one on the front, and one on the back but again i have run odd size tires becuse that was all i had, and i like baja'n anyway, im telling from my own experiences about what you can do and get away with it

ok htere are 85-86 that are the same. carbs the same and some 86 were spfi, but the 86 spfi(intake) is 86 exclusive(the connectors, not the components). then there is 87. 87 is transitional as some were spfi and some carb. the carbg models are more refined under the hood, and the spfi are like the 88. thye electricals in the car will be more like the 85-86 as far as connectors go, and the body will be more like the 88 i have an 88 sedan, who's original motor was swapped into a 91 loyale, and it runs the same, connects the same. i have a different motor, the block is from an 86, and the intake is from the 91 loyale, connects and runs the same

the clutch cable mounts to the bracket on the top of the tranny, in the same manner the parking brake lever is mounted to the caliper, and the nut fits on the top of the fork. the cable will come out the firewall and behind the steering, starter, back towards the tranny tunnel and loop around the top of the tranny so the the end of it faces forward to the front of the car, it feeds in from the back on the bottom of the fork is whare the hill holder cable goes to, the hatch doesnt have on being an AT now if this was a custom made cable you will have to find a way to secure it as it wont have the fitting for the stock subaru retaining clip.