MilesFox

yeah, you have to take the passenger side off to get the driver side belt off. the oil pump drives from the driver side belt. this is so if running open belts too dont forget about the shaft seal, behind the pulley. it can be difficult to remove without technique. you can wrap the rotor part in a rag and secure it in a vise to remove the nut and change the seal

the best thing to do is break it or wait till it to break. the outer end with no bearings is what you want. but if it breaks, stop and take it out right away. turn the wheel full lock and pop it out with a bar. thale the axle pin out and there you go, rwd! a broken axle that is removed will get the same effect as rwd. leave the other axle in if its good or till it breaks and you could replace the broken axle when you want 4wd again. that would be the easiest way to do it caution: if the axle breaks while driving you can put i into 4wd to get it off the road. the axle will ride but if you make any sharp turns it could pop out and bind up on the caliper bending it all up and ruining the brake line. take a punch, a hammer, and a crowbar with you and that will get you going again

you may have to cut and slice the connectors to the harness, and align the proper color wires and such. if you had a schematic for both years you could read what color wire is what function the pins can be popped out of the plastic connector, suppose you could do that swap the plastic connectors for the new dash on the old harness

if you have ea82 rims with the plasic center trings they will fit. ea81 and ea82 wagon spoke wheels are slightly different in their dimensions

make sure the wheels are straight when engage/disengaging 4wd. say you were driving in 4wd you will want to be traveling forward to disengage it. if your forward travel has created a bind. just go straigh backward. if you are on a loose surface you can try goosing the throttle or mini-rev-dropping the clutch to break a wheel loose and expell any bind

it may have pulled away from the back of the instrument cluster. i had replaced a cable on a 3 door and it wouldnt work, realigned the slot aon the tranny, i had to pull the instrument cluster to make sure the suare part was meshed and moved the car to check it before i put it back together

any kind of light you would use is rated for the bulb inside and the enclosure to house it. as long as you run a wire for the total amp draw, and properly fuse it there will be no risk for fire you could connect them to your own swithch if you chose, a relay optional depending on how many lights and how bright they are the dome on the roof, one of the wires is hot at all times, and the other hot with the door switches, the selection between on for the door and on all the time grounds through a screw to the body

does this happen at speed? say when cruising a steady speed, and letting off the gas, opposite of what yours is doing. this to me sounds like the DOJ is going bad, the inner side of the axle on the tranny. generally a bad doj will jerk the wheel and you feel it in the wheel either on acceleration or deceleration inspect the axle boots. the doj is fairly easy to service, take apart and clean, inspect and re-boot. once you have it apart you can consider if its useable or not. look for debris if they are present that is your problem, if the races are not chewed up you can re-grease them with moly EP grease (molybendum) and put a new boot and clamp on it

jims brat had all kinds of lights not working. we followed all the wiring and unplugged and cleaned the contacts, plugged them back in. by simply doing this everything works now

yeah just take of fthe outer belt cover, and take off the belt pulley. i find i best to loosen or tighten the bolte with the belt holding the pulley still. once you replace the seal you can slip the belt back onto the pulley, and bolt it on. this way thebelt maintains its tension you would not have to adjust the tension if you did not loosen it to begin with when tightening the bolts, snug them by hand with a 1/4 drive ratchet then 1/4 turn. be careful as they will twist off with too much torque

which is worse? Q 1. water in the oil as an excuse to make a 4wd conversion and engine build 2. 4wd conversion and engine build results in water in the oil? A 1. can be done in a few days if you get to crackin 2. this is what happens when you use diffrent heads

well depending if you want the car mobile right away, fix the head and get it running and driving. once it moves then you can contemplate a 5spd. you would want to use a turbo tranny, to match the axles, but you will have to swap on the vacuum solenoidt for the 4wd machanism a dual rance has a mechanical 4wd lever in the car, but to swap to it you will need 23 spline axles. as far as turbo fatness axles, you can use axles for an 3spd auto turbo, 2wd or 4wd. the axles will be the same diameter and have the same doj but the spline is correct for a dual range but if you can find the rx full time dual range that will go right in the rear difr would be the same for a turbo tranny but a dual range needs a dual range to go with. you will need a driveshaft, tranny crossmember and bolts, and a clutch/flywheel. these will be the same as ANY 4wd 5spd ddonbt forget the pedall assembly too!

having a dual range tranny, and a 3.9 diff, you would need an lsd diff with the 3.9 ratio also. but there is no 3.9 lsd, but lsd came as 3.7 gear. in order for you to use an lsd you would have to swap an lsd carrier onto a 3.9 diff, or vice versa swapping a 3.9 ring gear onto a lsd carrier. anyway it can be done, but welding it may be more practical. with a welded diff, you could pull off a rear axle for stree and install it right quick for some baja'n

just take off the hill holder cable, and thats it

if you get the drum off, tou can use a hammer to knock the stud thru from the front, so it falls out the back. if you get a new stud put it thru the drum, bolt the wheel to the drum, and as you tighten the lug nut it will pop the stud in place

got it at hot topic. some 3 bucks, the price tag is on the rear view mirror not so much this time, do you see an orange stripe? the only orange is the soob logo on the back, and the middle of the grille(had to do it!) the orange of the turn lenses and the cab lites is enough i may put a stripe along the side below the windows, but it would be white, with SUBARU ALLIANCE lettering in the stripe on the rear 1/4 trogdor, you should know about the big orange 7 on the hood. just got to get some letters to spell SEVEN, i would have to paint the vinyl letters orange for the rest of you, the SEVEN stickers, the one on the gauge cluster, i have, like, a whole big duct-tape-roll of them, by the 100's. yeah tom, that is the same car. everyone at my moms got a kick once they realized its the same car that sat behind the pole barn all winter

try a thicker oil next change, 15-w40. if that dont cure it consider the pump seals. dont worry about the pump itself

its about time i got some new pictures. at my moms with her digi since the car was originally at and the key didnt work. there is a pushbutton. but i have to start it under the hood, have to figure out danny's wiring

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installment3

installment 2

ok here goes, like the 5th attempt(resize and all)

dam this attatchments.....well the files are too big i will have to come back

88 spfi swd at to 4wd 5spd d/r conversion, 204k mi, new seals and timing belts, chaisaw bar oil.. this car belonged to my buddy danny, he got it for 200 bucks with an oil leak and a knock. he put new parts all aover the motor, we converted to 4wd. the interior has been converted to 2 tone brown on blue, partially due to the insides cathing on fire welding the carrier mount. anyway this car has seen a lot of baja'n, danny sold it to his brother till he wrecked it, busting the window and door, and bending a lower control arm. danny took the motor to put in a loyale. since then i have aquired the car 2 monts and 4 thousand miles ago, using a motor i got from an 85 at wagon, putting new seals on it, and piecing enough parts together like a distributor, radiatopr and coil, since these were missing i have also replaced a fender, all the doors, and added a gl-10 trunk lid with rack. danny had already installed gl-10 seats and yes, of course, the back seats fold down this is the same car seen here: www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan

hmm. the sender must be whack. i took the one off my sedan for an aftermarket unit, i can bring it when i come back from ohio.