MilesFox

was it oily film? if so maybe its pcv related. check all the hoses and make sure they are not clogged up

the skinny hosw will connect to a tee on the passenger side intake, the tee wil lbe the samme one to the vac modulator for an automatic. it runs to the vac canister on the firewall. the hose changes diameter half way up and has a plastic fitting between the diameters

i was over there yesterday painting the sedan and noticed the intake bolt wasn not tight. we removed it pulling the motor to take off the ground wire. i pointed that out and vincent tightened it, said the wire runs to the temp sensor. but i dont know if that fixed the problem, but the syptoms sounded more electrical than mechanical vincent, how is she doing now? hope that fixed ya!

sorry i forgot to mention, my measurements were at the wheel arches in line with the axle nut

it would be easier to pull the motor as the 3at is behemoth to try and wrestle out the bottom of the car my buddy got this legacy that has the torque converter seal, fixed that and the tranny runs perfect i once had a rare 85 turbo traction wagon with a leak, delivered pizza and ran cases of atf. put ti in the shop with 120 down payment till they tell me i need a new tranny and axle splines were messed up. man if i only knew what i know now about soobs back then. anyway its an easy fix as far as one seal goes but the motor and tranny have to come apart from eachother to get to it

if you and a buddy pull the motor by hand, its easier to take off theintake and ac/alt, makes the motor half as light. a long block alone you could just about chuck across the room. a short block byitself one person could hurl it like a medicine ball! there is a tab on the casting near the drain plug on the tranny, you can jack it up there, the oem jack will work but you will have more control with a hydraulic putting the motor back in the input shaft sometimes will hang on the pilot bearing, and you may have to wiggle the motor on. if you can get the bottom studs to poke thru and start a nut, and use the longer starter bolt on the passenger side to draw the bellhounsing together, coner at a time so its even

jim (66subaru) has them on an 88 gl-10 turbo 4at used-to-be-air suspension, converted to coilover height adjastable the car sat at 25 3/4" inches on the front, cranking the struts all the way brought it up to 26 1/2. we got 3/4 inch heigt on the front full adjustment range but also i think the geometry of the knuckle or the lwer control arm may be different with air ride, as the whole rig sits lower than the 2wd to 4wd conversion dl wagon

if you are going with a weber, it will be easier to strip the emissions by removing the intake. all the metal vacuum lines are of one manifild, the whole deal is held on by a few 10mm bolts with phillips heads in them. you can remove all the metal lines and plug off any fittings on the manifold itself make sure you leave connected the skinny hose from the canister on the passenger firewall, leave it connectoed to the motor as this controls the heater vent select, cruise, and pushbutton 4wd, and of course, the vacuum advance on the disty, just connect it directly to the manifold or the carburetor

ok this is common where the marks are assumed up and tdc. i have seen people leave their soob in the shop and pay $$$ to have the mechanic install them wrong and and say bent valves there are a series of 3 marks that means all the cyl's in th middle of the bore. line up the driver side cam first. rotate crank 360. lune up passenger cam. rotate 3 60 again. now rotate untill you see the tdc mark and align the disty ti #1. its the fartehst back terminal to the right of the screw, the rotor will point at the hill holder if you never removed the disty then leave it there where its at. read this and you cant go wrong http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

the blue wire will be live with the acc position. connect your constant to the green and your memory to the blue wire

when lifting a soob, either your own build or a kit install, you are making a body lift. all the suspension mounting points are spaced evenly away from the body, so therefore the suspension geometry remains the same, just 3 or so inches away from the body

just have them fabricate a piece of sheet metal between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the axle boot. the axle boot is important to keep the heat off of it. also, see if any of these exhausty shops have header wrap, foily fiberglass material that can be wrapped around the pipe itself, like they would use on v-8 headers

lighting should be designed around your driving environments i have a lighting system i prefer: fog light for fog, inclement weather. they work good on a full moon and parking lights only. makes for stealth mode run with no headlights use fogs when you need to see, use the parking brake no flash brake lights bumper mounted lights, 100 watts. for long distance light, straight down the road late night county road baja'n. mine is on a pushbutton swithch but a floor swithc like older fords would be ideal for these roof mounted (2), 55 watts, to shine immediately in front of the car, as if tying up a tow strap or if you are in grass or weeds that cover the headlights. not good in rain or snow, mount them far enough back(b pillar) so thay dont glare on the windshield alley lights to shine down the side ov the car, for baja'n down atv trails or any other use immediately around the car anus lihgts. for reversing or tow straps, in the woods, bright lights behind you... mine are on a switch, the car is 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion, no reverse light. but if the reverse was hooked up it would be like samo has his you can have a master swithc that would be between the battery and the lights' circuits. so you can turn them all off at once or to disable them. you can put an ammeter in line to measure the amp draw on the alternator for the klighting circuit(s)

the crank angle sensor(disty) tells the ecu what the rotation of the engine is, the ecu sends the signal as a pulse for the spark to the ign amplifier on the coil bracket(transistor thingy) and the amplifier is what breaks the magnetic fielsd in the coil inducing the spark

all 4wd ea81 and ea82 came with skid plates. the holes are there on 2wd models, and ea81 and ea82 plates are the same. go find some 4wd at the junkyard and grab the plate and its 4 bolts. if any are not present on 4wd's someone may have taken it off to change the oil/pan gasket

a mud type traction would allow wheelspin enough at a high rpm to get things moving so long as it has a bite. if it could get a momentum on the fork lift 6000 lbs will start to roll i put a hitch on the sedan and it tows quite nicely in 2wd. i towed another subaru to michigan, got into some slick roads, 4 lo and hi maintain good control. mind a vehicle in tow can push you around, sideways down town stay on the gas and pull out of it

sorry i cant help you all my expertise lies in spray paint, rustoleum, krylon and the like i couldnt say in quarts but it takes about 5 cans to spray primer a soob. one for the top, one for the hood, 2 each for both sides of the car and the last to use between cans for horizontal surfaces(you want the can upright, use half, get new can, use the half cans for vertical surfaces)

if its an RX it will, but most likeley not, it will be single range 4wd. if it were an 89 it would most likely have one as standard issue being an 87 it will be compatible with all turbo and mpfi 87 and up as far as harness and ecu is concerned if its a gl-10 it would have a digi dash, although it could not be a gl-10 gl10 giveaways are most likely a sunroof, a rack or lip spoiler on the trunk lid, and a molding on the orner of the back doors

the oil pump is held on by 5 bolts, it is belt driven and nothing connects internally with the motor there are 3 seals, on ebehind the pulley, one on the rotor, and the mickey mouse mounting seal the rotor will have a B stamped on one side it faces the inside of the motor the timing belts will have to come off, the crank pulley and plastics will have to come off to get to it, unless of course you bust off th plastic and do away with it! anyway the work can be done without taking out the radiator, but you can if you chose for more room. if your car has no AC you can work on it thru the grille!

knock out all the maintenance now and youre good to go. keep oil in it and the bottom end will last over 300,000 miles. if you are used to junk rump roast domestics throw everythig you know about cars out the window and welcome to SUBARU

the loyale most likely has a broken timing belt. its possible the guy installed new ones and didnt line them up right, and therefore thinks it has bent valves which it wont(non interference) the loyale should be easy to fix if you can get ahold of it, the legact probably has a torque converter seal leak and lost its fluid, wont go

seeing them alaska prices may be a bit more than the lower 48. i have seen ball joints fgor 17 at napa, pads should be about 15 for a set, bearings around 20 a piece, the seals maybe 6-8 bucks apiece anyway the "adjustment for the bearing" the bearings are pressed in, and a re a ball type bearing, so there is no side load say like that of a roller bearing like on a rwd front spindle the tighter you make the axle nut the more it seate thebearing races, the internal parts of the bearings still spin freeley, and the axle is pressed thru the inner race. a loose axle nut can cauus the rotor to rub on the caliper bracket. a pulsating pedal will designate a warped rotor or the same as a loose axle nut inspect the brake pads and look for uneven wear, and tighten the axle nut if she's loose there are 2 washers on the axle nut, one is cone shaped and futs into the hub, the other one is flat but has a curve, install it so the curve side faces the axle, so that it squeezes down on the outer edge of the cone washer. sometimes these washers are on backward and the nut doesnt hold torque

maybe like a clicking sound? check all the boots on your axles and see if any are ripped or have holes in them a bad cv axle will pop and click when turning a power steering pump will make a whining sound when you turn the wheel all the way

maybe you broke an axle instead. a clutch will start to go out, not just up and go out. a 2wd if an axle breaks it wont go. set the parking brake and put the car in gear. look under the hood and see if any one of the inner side of the axles are turning. if so that axle is broken

it looks like an xt but i havent seen an ff-1 lens. i would think the old scool ones are in the grille