MilesFox

the haynes manual can be obscure, a lot of people will argue the proedure is wrong. the procedure is dscribed correctly, bu the pictures can be misleading, as it shows both cams pointing up. the cams will be 180 relative to eachi=other. what the haynes book says about rotating the crank 360 degrees, it will make the driver side cam point down when you installthe passenger side up. common overlook due to the pictures! anyway read this its noce and simple, cant go wrong! www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

when observing the cam sprockets, after the belts have been installed, you can locate TDC from the passenger side cam, the dot will point to the top ridge across the center of the valve cover, you can use this mark to verify you are not 180 deg off here is the timing belt procedure it runs through the belt sequence one full course then align the disty http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

i had the same problem it was disty related having the accel coil will stress the ign module in the disty. this left me stranded at a gas station over night. the next morning i got it started with a jump but it died when i pulled out. i swapped the stock coil back in and managed to get home i would think the ign module got hot and temprarily failed till it coiiled off. try swapping the stock coil and try again, not because the accel is bad, but it may be too hard on the ign module.

i think an equal length header would be ideal if you keep the stock pipe diameter and run it like i had described the stock y's characteristics are more from the pipe diameter than the bend of the pipes, the y pipe is shaped like it is to fit around the body and suspension.

it it possible the shifter lincahe ha stweaked it the bottom of the car grounded out. if so the car would shift but the alignment of the shifter will be off is the car 2wd or 4wd? does it make any noises when in gear?

if you drop the whole frame out the bottom you can suspend the car body by the bumper with teh cherry picker, high enough to drag the frame out from underneath it will get tight pulling the motor and trans together, you have to come up at a sharp angle to get it out. remove the starter if so, you may have to jack the car up enough that the motor/trans can stand at a 45 deg angle to clear the body as it comes out

its a hatchback. althoug they quit the ea81 style for wagon and sedan in 84, the hatchback continued thru 89

well since there is spark at the plugs we can rule out a broken timing belt. has anyone ever worked on the motor before. check the distributor alignment it will point to #1 on the cap, the farthest back to the right of the clip on the cap. it is possible the disty could have jumped a gear but the only time i have seen that happen was due to a cam retainer havong stripped thread allowing the cam to walk.. it is more likely for the timing belt to jump a tooth also lets verify the ign alignment and go from there read this and run through the alignment procedure, you can remover the outer belt covers http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

hmm i sense a write up... anyway start by diconnecting all the hoses and electrical from the motor, throttle cable and what-not. disconnect the speedo cable, wiring, and clutch cable from the tranny. remove the anti-pitch bar leave the exhaust mounted to the motor, and to the mount on the back of the trans. disconnect the rear half of the exhaust then go in the car and disconnect the cables from the parking brake lever, take out the clips and shove the cables thru to the outside drain any trans fluid and pull the driveshaft. find a way to suspend the car by the body only. place a jack under the engine crossmember right on the luttle mini-skid plate under the steering rack drop the 3 bolts on either side of the tranny crossmember, let it hang by its weight with the jack supporting the engine crossmember, disconnect the brake lines from the body. leave all the tie rod and axles intact. undo the top of the struts from the strut tower. let them hang by theit own weight inside the fender. now disconnect the steering shaft from the rack bt removing the pinch bolt on the splined part. now the crossmember is ready to drop, undo the 14mm nuts 2 on each side of the crossmember and let down the jack. get the car off the ground and drag the assembly out, toss on a seat and a gas tank and drive the whole rig around!

i would check or replace the pcv valves and clean out all the involved hoses. my car has a low mile motor and it does the oil fill noise for the sole fact all the pcv is not hooked up properly if you have any ticking ots more an annotance than a mechanical problem and a now oil pump seal will usually cure it. really the only thing that can go out all of a sudden is a timing belt, if you dont know when it was last done you may as well put on new belts for peace of mind, and do the engine seals while you are at it as far as the clutch goes i like to pull the motor, good idea if you change any seals. although pulling the motor is not necessary for eaither, but i prefer do do it that way. may as well get the rear seal while you are there but they usually hold out for a while you can drop the tranny out the bottom, i find it easier to leave the shifters attatched to the tranny, take the bolts out on the car end of the levers, and drop it out all as one. you will want to drain the gear oil as it will leak out once you pull the driveshaft you could easily squeeze 300k out the motro considering it sounds to run good with its current mileage oh yeah if you DO break a timing belt it WILL NOT crunch the valves, as these are non interference motors, so dont let anyone tell you different, not even the subaru dealer:rolleyes:

here is a picture of the dual exhaust notice how it x over under the diff this is what the pipe looked like after it fell off the car. i made some changes to the design for my use. the pipe is 1 3/4". you can see the skinny class packs i though this design choked it down in the high rpm, buthad great bottom end and midrange. what i would do is make the flanges just past the x where it straightens out, and use a pair of glasspacks with a 2" outlet, and run 2" the rest of the way back. this design, the 1 3/4" pipe off the heads and thru the x will give the right tuning for scavenging and exhaust pulse. the mufflers immediately after will give the backpressure for torque yet be open enough for flow. all the pipe the rest of the way back will be pure flow and sound characteristics. you can go as big as you want after the mufflers. hard to see but this is a stock y with a cherry bomb immediately after, and 2.5 inch out the back. from my exhaust setups this is the one i favor for throttle response and the sound, the sweet sound, runs quiet and revs smoothly, let off the gas and SNARL. very good midrange and very good highway driving, high flow but still torquey if making a custom header use 1 3/4 pipe to the collector under the diff, then 2" for about a foot to a 2" inlet and 2.5 outlet muffler (or whatevers closest) all of the pipe after the muffler is for flow and sound

i would agree that the factory y is just right for the engine's characteristics. i favor a setup of a stock y pipe, with the muffler at the flange and big pipe after the muffler as far as making a pipe i would keep the same diameter as the stock pipe, for about the same length to a collector or muffler. if you remove the heat shileding you can see the pipe is much smaller than it firt appears. as far as a collector i would locate it just behind the engine crossmember under the tranny, where the front diff would be if making a dual exhaust setup it would be ideal to make your pipes cross in an X fashion under the front diff i would also agree that making a custom header would gain in performance as long as you keep respects to the dimensions of the stock y pipe

taking the motor and tranny may have an extreme angle to pull, i prefer to take the motor , then the tranny out the top. if you are swapping platforms and you may want to do a lift at the same time, you can drop the entire front crossmembers including motor, trans, axles suspension and you are simply unbolting the entire front half of the car and swapping it over in one piece. all in all its less work than individuall pulling things, for the time it takes to swap a motor and trans you can swap the whole driveline, you wont even have to disconnect the exhaust from the motor! all the mounting points will have to come down anyway to fit the lift, so you may as well swap the whole rig, or take it down, mix and mathc the parts you want on it, and install the whole thing as a unit

BAD AXLE replace the one on the front right. the wheel will jerk to the right as the cv binds up and takes the wheel out you hand if you aint lookin' if it were the inner side you would feel it in the wheel upon accel or decel, torque against the motor and driveline the axle will hold out for a little while. if it gets so bad it pulls the wheel try reversing at full loick to center the bearings. add some grease to prolong it if you will be going with ea82 setup then you should look into an ea82 axle

i would say a complete setup, flywheel, shifter, crossmember is worth $100-125 depending on availability $150 with a diff and driveshaft. that is how much i would pay for one of these, say a complete setup off a junkyard car

if you do not see fuel at the injector chances are the distributor is bad. i just put spfi together, no spark or fuel, used a different disty and all good check the engine code procedure described in the usrm>miscellaneous

leave the turbo on the car, just connect the fuel lines, throttle cable, electrical connectors. you can take off the "4wd turbo" plenum to access the throttle cable just unbolt the turbo from the downpipe, leave the downpipe bolted to the side of the turbo. do as you would for any other engine pull, jack up the tranns so the motor mounts clear, and pull the motor. if you leave the downpipe connected to the tranny it will line up for motor reinstall. you will have to remove some of the turbo shrouding but not all of it the ac/alt assebly can be undone and swung out of the way it will only take you all day if you are taking off more than you need to

yo i get my license back in april. i have a spare d/r no shifter or rev/n switches. sounds good we can make this happen agian this year

a rusty subaru is better than no subaru. i have had rusty subarus but never had any structual issues. generally the underside will be in much better shape than what it looks like outside

what is wrong with the parts car? if you take the goodies from it and you can put the leftovers back on it, sell it and get your money back. is tha parts wagon fixable?

85-86 had them on the cown whereas 87 and up had them on the hood. same goes for the XT

looks like you will have to bust the lock cylinder out or bust off the whole thing to defeat the locking pin on the column, if it comes down to having to turn the wheel at a different angle to remove screws.

you couold mount the radio facing up at you at an angle to clear the heater box behind it, as long as it doesnt mess with the operation of the cd. some consoles came stock that way but thay are rare personally i like to mount my gauges on the dasn, just under the headlight and wiper switches, if i made a console i would have a storage there i like it. but maybe you could do both. if you mounted the gauges on the console you wont see the backsides of them like on the dash

what about a dual spfi using 2 maf, 2 tb and one distributor? with teh maf separate each side will have poper mix proportionate to airflow, 2cyl instead of 4

running in the red is not good, you could have a blown head gasket, or oneis about to go running hot. make sure the radiator is ood and the coolant level is correct. it is possible the water pump may not be functioning properly thus causing the running hot. you should consider replacing the water pump first thing, may as well do the timing belts and seals. but water pump st least for now to see if that fixes it i would assume your car is mpfi, if not turbo. if it isnt turbo yopu can swap one on if you get the proper disty with knock sensor/control unit form 85-86 turbos its quite possible the head gasket could be blown, but see this as an excuse to do the engine up good. inspect the exhausst ports for cracks as these will lose coolant. the cracks between the valves are normal you can close them up with a punch