MilesFox

i also find taking the battery out gives more room to work, when it comes to the ac and clutch fan

start with the exhaust. opening the exhaust will gain the most immediately. keep the y pipe intact and build from the flange back. i suggest the muffler at the flang eand big as you want pipe after it. you will like the sound, too

i remove the ac and alt as a unit all its bracketry, you can even leave the alt wires connected. but you have to take the adj. pulley off to get to one of the bolts. there is the one on the far bottom left, just loosen it, remove the fat hex bolt from behind the pilley, the 12mm under the alt, and the 14mm on the intake

were they THAT afraid of the possibility of catching rust? its not the end of the world

funny how a subaru dealer would tell you your motor was broken over a timing belt, they should know that an 87 has an ea82 and its a non interference engine unlike the newer modelsanyway welcome!

if you have oil on the MAF i would check out all the pcv routing, since some of it goes into the inlet to the turbo, behind the MAF clogged pcv lines can cause oil ingestion through the intake system

you can also use wd-40 to lube the boots, its silicone based. also you cna use wd to make the wires all nice and shiny!!! when it dries it will lose the wet look but the silicone will look rich insteadof powdery

the headlights ground thru the switch so you may want to start troubleshooting at the switch itself

the hazards are on the hazard/horn/clock fuse do the lights come on ut not flash?

if all your hoses are brittle/cracked/clogged you can use regular 5/8" heater hose as a substitute

the xt6 flywheel will bolt up to the crank like stock, no mods. use the pp and disc pertaining to your transmission. if you r car is 5spd 4wd then the xt6, turbos, and 4wd dual range disc/pp are the same

NAPA will have gasket sets but they may be soewhat pricey. i know that you can get a PAIR of head gasets at napa fopr the price of ONE gasket at autozone, but i live in indiana where subaru parts are NEVER in stock, and un available half the time(a-zone, advance) it would be more economical to but the gaskets separately, as if you get an entire "reseal" kit wit will come with gaskets for turbo, spfi, and carb, and you will have extras a head gasket set itself from napa is about 80-90 bones, it will have the head gaskets, valve seals, the o-rings for the cam towers(very important) and i think also intake and exhaust gaskets if you get headgaskets individualy you will have about 50 in for a pair, the o=rings cab be had at a hardware store cam, crank, intake and exhaust seals will averager about 5 bucks apiece, the intake and exhaust will come as a pair depending on your shopping you should score everything within 75 to 100 bucks depending on what set(s) you may get or where you get individial seals

you could stack washers between the trailing arm and the side of the torsion bar, to space it out a little

yake the plugs out and dump it in the cylinders. let sit and occasionally turn the motor over by hand to work it in. pb blaster is a good lube, i have used it to free a seized block due to sittong for a while. it will halp take dawn any rust. as far as sludge or carbon try kerosene or oven cleaner. these things i would use having them laying around, but you may want more opinion on what solvents to use

not to turn this topic into an arguement but a stone is highly unlikely to throw a belt. most likely it will be kicked out. it is even more likely a stone would never make it to the timing belts to begin with. anyway i go off road with open belts thru shrubs and 6ft tall weeds, gravel, mud, never had a problem with reliability anyone here running open belts would swear bt them the only reported belt failure was due to a loose rag under the hood. it took 10 minutes to fix off the side of the road, with 3 tools all i am saying if you like to play with soobs its more convenient. if it breaks so what fix it in 10 minutes, keep a spare in the trunk. it saves you from having to remove ANYTHING to change a timingbelt, other than the alt/ac belts. if you cnange the oil pump or water pump you dont have a bunch of crap top remove opinions will differ, but there are the ones who know and the ones who dont

the xt at its time had the lowest drag coefficient of any production car in the world. and it still does!

the haynes manual subaru 1600 & 1800 has electrical diagrams. take a look at the fuse links under the hood, on the overflow bottle

you could do it yourself if you like, just know the right procedure that makes it easiest. work from the top. if youre doing the water pump remove the radiator but other than that it can be done without opening the cooling system the ac/alt assembly will come off as one piece. remove the long hexd bolt, and the other bolt closest to the crank just loosen it. flip up the alternator and remove the 12mm bolt from the bracket, and the 14 on the intake. you may have to remove the adjustment pulley, if its the left hand type screw be sure to loosenthe nut on the pulley! you can change a belt with all this on but if youre driving seals you will want the room you have to remove the crank pulley and dipstick to remove the plastic. the bolts on the bottom of the plastic there are nuts behind. sometimes the fittings crack, use even torque. if the bolt just spins you can pop the cover off with mild persuasion from a screwdriver since you will take it apart down to the seals you may as well pitch the plastic covers if you figure you will be under the hood often this is convenient. if you changed a timing belt it would take 10 minutes and not 3 hours. i recommend it form my own example, as others will, and to me it seems with the absence of covers any leaking oil will drip away instead of collecting on the timing belts its fun you should give it a try

i had seen a distributor jump a tooth because the last person to work on the car overtorqued and stripped the cam retainer bolts and the cam walked out enough to shear a tooth and set the disty off

the replacement gasket will be cork, use some copper rtv silicone on both sides of the gasket, light film, dont tighten the bolts so much the gasket pinches out the side. do about hand tight and 1/4 turn

if you really want to get going take the tachometer up to 4500 in first and second, wind up third to about 55, take 4th to 65 and when you hit 65 put her in 5th to cruise. if you ever get the rpms up you will notice the power takeoff at 3500 rpm. lot of times people shift before the motor gets going! keep in mind the subaru motor has a short stroke so all its power is in the upper rpm. dont be afraid to wind her up! if you dont have a tach just stay on it till she quits pulling, hit the next gear. 4th should carry tou to the speed you want, then hit 5th take most of your rpm in 3rd gear when merging on the highway

you would want your exhaust to be torquiest around 2500 rom and free flowey to 5500 rpm. the stock y is pretty right on, but i like to use a glasspack at the y pipe rear flange and dump it out to fat pipe. if you put a glasspack that gives you enough backpressure/exhaust pulse to let the y scavenge as it wants to. hiway rpm at 60 mph 100kph iwould be between 3000 and 3500 rpm for that speed range. you would want to hav eplenty of throttle responsea to that rpm so high flow would be the advantage as it takes less gas pedal to get moving from that rpm. 3500 is right smack in the middle of the power curve

i take it your car has the 4spd automatic full time 4wd. are the rear wheels locking up or just not engaging? there is a fuse under the hood that when installed it disengages the 4wd, runs in Fwd. make sure there in no fuse there, and there is no bad wires. the fuse should be by along the firewall the rear wheels are electrically activated by haydraulic fluid against a clutch pack. also there is an ecm that controlls the 4spd auto. just to give you details so you know where to direct your questions. i would assume the car is turbo and also has air suspension, am i correct?

that is part of the pcv, its the crank case vent and oil separator. its on turbo and MPFI engines. i take it you rcar is either a turbo gl-10 or some sort of xt?

well one of these days tim hansen will finish the movie he made about my westerly travels. it should be interesting. i was there but i would have to see the final edit to see what kind of spin there will be on the story. havent heard any updates as of recent though.......