MilesFox

funny thing, ol jim wood's wagon was doing that today. not too noisy to worry about. i had a dl that got loud after i ran it out of gas, but still worked fine

what it is, yo

it says that because the inhibitor circuit is missing from the at. dont worry, just ignore it. it has nothing to do with the engine functions how is your starter hooked up? i fancy a pushbutton from the starter to switch to fuse panel(horn circuit) if you want to use the key, on the okd at shifter plug-in, the 2 fattest wires on the harness are the neatral circuit. make a jumper and you can use the key, maybe get rid of the code, too

trashwagon 6 has a full rx driveline swap, xt6 5lug, 87gl10 wagon. the dual range shifter is the same as regular dual range, but the single range shifter is different. you can pop the shifter knob off the single range by driving out the 2 pins. on this car the old shifter hangs off the side and that is the diff lock! you can make a switch or put in an rx cover plate and make your own wiring in between. the s/r and diff lock mechanism is the same, but the plugs on the shift knob/diff lock switch are different as far as driveshafts use your current one. same for clutch/flywheel/pp. since its turbo the axles will fit the same, 25 spline. the plugs on the tranny itself may be different though. when you engage the diff lock the 4wd lite comes on. you will have to be inventive to make indicator for lo-range. the switch is on the lever itself

hey copy and paste your post to usrm. maybe add a little:brow: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1

the ac relays are under the hood, all the heavy ga. wore will run between the relay, the fan(switch), and ground. also the power lead from the battery to the relay. then you would have a wire from the relay to the switch. i used speaker wire and powered the switch from the relay. the parking brake adj cover is the piece between the shift console and the center console, the little wannabe cup holder with the coin tray. i drilled a hole in the forward most tray. the terminals were bent at 45 deg so the cover would snap on. you would want an indicator light, or a lighted toggle. if the switch was lighted then you would ground it nearby on a screw. i mounted my switch so that on was toward the seat. that way if you accidentally bump it, you will bump it iff instead of on.

this setup will work as long as the fan circuit itself is in order. go ahead and hook this up, and if nothing works then look at the whole circuit. i have this setup as well, the relay is by the ac relays, and the switch is in a coil tray on the parking brake adjust cover

a used motor from the junkyard would be a safe bet. look for cars that have broken timing belts, or broken axles and the like, things that would have been easy to fix but would have cost too much have you determined your oil pressure on your current motor? an oil pump re-seal or even a new oil pump could save your motor. if the motor turns out to be bad, well, at least you have a new oil pump. if you wanted to do things one at a time, you could leave the timing belt covers off, all of them except for the one behind the timing belt idler pulley, and therefore you could get into the motor without having to remove the ac and alt assembly, crank pulley, and dipstick. an off the side of the road timing belt change would take 10 minutes with 3 tools some will argue the reliability of open belts and debris issues, but many have adopted this feature with no reliability issues, and its easy to play with the motor often. the only reported failure was due to a loose rag under the hood

yo yo yo subaru land! i made it over here to ol jim wood's this weekend, knowing pat was on his way too, we hung out in the garage till 4:30 am playing with soobs till he got here. pats a nice guy, some interesting conversation. i told him since he stopped to not run off so quick!!!!! yo pat how was the trip from here? there may be some snow behind you, or on the way back, but around these parts the higway dept is up on their road maintenance. pat dumped off some of his extra parts here to pick them up on the way back, dont need it for another 1200 miles anyway french lick is in INDIANA

(assuming you want the dual range hi-lo 5spd) yes you can swap in the 5s[d. the bellhousings will be the same if you have the 1800 cc motor or a later 1600 motor. basically if your starter is on the right, and not on top, you will fit the 5spd trans against the motor. use the clutch and flywheel assembly that goes to the ea82, the one that would be original to the 5spd. . if you dont have a flywheel for your trany any flywhell to ANY 4wd 5spd will work the same, even the xt6. the holes on the flywheel are bigger, but the flywheel will center on the crank snout, and thus the original bolts from your ea81 motor will hold it down. you may have to grind away a little on the bottom corners of the engine bellhousing to clear the starter teeth. there may be some fitment issues in the trans tunnel so you may have to beat it a little. you can also drop the trans crossmember down almost an inch by stacking about $3 worth of washers(miles fox's kit:D ) as long as your tranny is from a non turbo it will fit the 84 car's axles. your rear end is 3.9 and a 5spd will also be 3.9 if its from a non turbo. now you will need the 2 piece driveshaft for the 5spd as the trans is longer. also you will need to make amount for the carrier bearing. or you can have your existing driveshaft lengthened your existing clutch cable should work just fine hell while you are at it you can shove an ea82 down there to go with! straight bolt in and run, just take the disty out when you drop in the motor(usa)

i do believe there is an undersize seal for a worn oil pump shaft. clamp the oil pump rotor in a vise just enough to hold it still, cover the rotor with a rag! so you an loosen the nut on the pulley. anoterh alternative is if the motor were out of the car you could use an impact to loosen the nut if you do it in one quick burst(tighten also) with the timing belts still on

if you can shift gears while the car is running but not moving, and while not pushing in the clutch, you can rule out the cable. even if the cable was broken, the clutch would naturally be engaged. sometimes when a clutch lets go it will just incinerate into fibers all at once while messing with the hill holder, you will want your clutch cable adjusted where you want it before adjusting the hill holder. if the hill holder is too tight the brakes will stick if you try to go forward from a reversing, or from starts on a hill ,

generally when a doj goes bad, you will feel it jerk on the steering wheel,either while accelerating or decelerating. whereas when the outer cv goes, you hear it poppling while turning, smoother on the steering wheel

the fuel pump relay is on the steering column. drop the plastic under the dash, you should see them above the ecu on a clip to the top right. on the dl there will be 2. the one with the brown clip is the ign relay, and the one with the green clip is the fuel pump relay. you can try running a hot wire to the pump to make sure its working all the time, and if you have to as a temprary fix, run your wire from the fuel pump to the pos coil terminal. that way the pump comes on and off with the key, until you solve the relay/circuit problem. if you do decide to run a temporary wire, you can run it from the pump and into the car thru the brake line grommets, so that the wire enters the car under the back seat.

this wouldnt be the infamous engine tick? anyway you would hear that all throughout the rpm range, any load.... the stock timing sould be 20 deg btdc +/-2 deg my experience with a rod knock, the knock would be intermittent upon startups. and also you would hear it as load changes, such as revving in neutral, you would hear it at the moment you let off the gas, and then again when it returned to idle, it would go away at load or negative load. lets evaluate and eliminate anything else before we decide it has a rod knock!

hmmm. how many miles? could the clutch have let go? lock the diff and see if she moves. that will rule out any broken axles in front

yeah i like to use a sanding disc on a drill. if i dont have one i would use sandpaper by hand, just stroke in odd directions so the scratches arent all one direction. really you just need to get the shininess off the surface my recommendations for a daily driver type usage

connect thr green plugs to read the codes. if you locate a hole on the side of the ecu that is the led. plug them in and turn the key on. to clear the codes, plug in the black ones. then turn the key off and disconnect all the connectors once you are finished

you can take the caliper off to move the car if you had to........

i used a wal-mart tow bar. it was collapsable and had 2 pins thru the hitch. we heated up the bars and bent them so they were the same width as the tow hooks. this was on an ea82. the pins and brackets that were supposed to be bolted to the bumber now fit thru the tow hooks. the htch end has been lengthened to replace the length from bending the bars.

there are 2 dipsticks on the auto tranny. the farthest back one is for aTF, the front one is for gear oil. this is where the front diff is located. a lot of times there is atf in the front diff and its not supposed to be there!

ok sorry i misread, yes thes cars are both ea81's. everything physically will fit or change out other than the doors and hatch. the gl-10 has the velvet interior and is somewhat checker pattern. does it have a sunroof? the gl-10 is probably 2wd 5spd, what does the hatch have? the drivelines are interchangeable from 2wd to 4wd.

napa would have the parts. try a different listing other than rx, say 88 4wd wagon for front brakes or something like gl-10 turbo for rear brakes. generally the parts i order from napa are coming from the columbus warehouse. if you replace any exhaust go with 2 inch.

would this 86 be a hatchback or a 3-door? a lot of things will physically interchange like motors and transmissions

the hill holder would generally bind up while reversing. what about the vac solenoids, are they disconnected at the diaphragm, or on backwards?