MilesFox

if the piston is far out enough as if the pads were extremely worn i like to use channel lock pliers and grip the piston on its outer circumfrence to get the first couple turns, generally it will be hardest to turn the first turns and it will free up as you go. aside from the needle nose pliers i like to use regular jaw pliers set on the wide setting, like the pliers that come in the oe subaru tool kit found in the trunk. sometimes depending on room i like to hang the caliper on the slide pin and rest it on the top of the rotor to hold the works still turning with the end of pliers

if you lost poere as you turned the key, check the battery connections to see if they are tight, wiggle them if you have to

here is a picture of how the belt setup would look. this motor is just like how it would go into the car. notice the plastic behind the idler pulley

for those of you who are doing timing belts and dont mind working on your own car DITCH THE COVERS! caleb, i run only but one piece of plastic if i have it, its the part behind the idler pulley on the driver side. i keep it there because its the only part of the belt system that has no motor behind it. the that overlaps the oil pump i cut off so i can remove the pump if i had to. be sure that if you take the idler pulley off(to put the plastic on! ) torque it good or it will walk oout and break to align the dots on the cm pulleys ythe seam for the cam cover is where the dots will line. you can also tell odegbtdc by aligning the passenger side dot to the top rib on the flat part of the cam cover

yes, both tensioners should spin freely like skateboard wheels here is some reading on the timing belt procedure(with pics) http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

well condidering this guy wnats to get something driveable, if i were him i would go ahead and swap in the ea81, and then as the car is driveable i would tear into the turbo motor and see if i could locate the problem. if it turns out bad the car is driveable and you could always go back to turbo once you found a good part/motor

if your battery is not that new bat had been dependable till now, a strenuous cranking such as trying to start the car in the cold after being stressed with no alternator can do it in. if a lead acid battery is drained often or cranked till dead it will break up the lead plates over time. also a weaker battery will pull more load from the alternator to keep charge, robbing amps or stressing the alternator. now that you have a new alt and coil you will want a new battery as a sure bet. if you persist to have problems with the car after that, keep an eye on the engine codes. a coolant temp sensor(for the ecu, not the gauge) can be the single most problematic component on the turbo engine, as people have posted about such problems often

it probably has seized up. i see it often on cars that sat. one time we had one and were desperate to get the car working so we tossed it up as high in the air as we could and threw it down onto the concrete. hey, it freed up enough to move slightly, but the magnets were probably all broken up by then you can get an aftermarket inline pump from autozone and the like. it can also be listed under FORD

sorry im posting too late but i was going to sat try using a turbo or spfi throttle cable which is longer.... so what did you do about the distributor? if i remember correctly now all that about flipping the firing order had to do with an modded ea82 disty on the ea81

the maf on your car now is different from the one on mpfi wha you will want is to get if not the harness, you will want all the components under the hood, and all the plug in ends to them. you can chop what you need from the donor car harness, grab the ecu and the clips to it. make your own wiring inbetween, tap into powe and agn circuits on the car, and have all the ecu and harness to it be independent from the car's harness. this way you could swap the electronics with the motor if you put the motor in another car thereafter.

you can adjust the valve lash i believe your motor for 82 and a MT it would be a solid lifter motor the old hitachi carbs like to develop dead spots in the power curve, i know things like exhaust leaks and vacuum routing can play tricks with the carb

the doj and inner bearing pieces will swap vice versa, but the ea82 rear axle is longer than the ea81. this is due to the whole suspension on the ea82 being wider i have read that the ea82 doj allows for more travel of the axle, a plus if you are mix and matching

yell i have put heads on for alleyboy with them being reconditioned. but i have used heads in pull-off condition for my own uses. the last head job i did was a porting of turbo heads. there were cracks between the valves of both heads. cracks between the valves are a normal feature on most any ea82 head, even carb and spfi. there is no passages between the valves its all meat. i see your concern with the crack inside the valve chamber, but on the heads that i ported the cracks went all the way down to the valve guide. i used these heads anyway, since there was no problem with them on the motor we took them from(bad rod bearing) since then the heads have seen over 10,000 miles, including a trip cross country, and built up on a carb block for 8.5 compression i would not worry about the cracks, but you mat want to take some preventative measures like peening them shut, drilling some relief holes, or driving in a pin to fill them, stake the valve seats in the only problem the cracks can lead to is if they expand too large it may drop a valve seat. pull off any known good ea82 turbo head that is in perfect working order and i bet you will find these cracks on nearly all of them

all non turbo trannies use 23 spline. the exception is the 3spd turbo AT, 23 splines all turbo 5spds, and all fulltime 5spds and autos have 25 splines

i used a drill press and 2 different size bits, stepped recess

i think they charge a fee, there is a source online you can see scans of the subaru factory manuals, if youre handy with a schematic you can use the soob originals if you go and try to just bolt on the ea82 lower control arm, you can get the axle on, but it will rub the frame, and you will have to lengthen the radius rod. if you can find an ea82 crossmember, look underneath where the lower control arm bolts thru. this is a stamped piece of metal that can be ground away and separated, and can be welded onto an ea81 crossmember so that the rear half of the mount on the ea82 is now the rear half on the ea81, and the ea81's rear mount is now the front. reason is the ea82 lower control arm curves forward and is longer, wheras ea81's are straight. with this mount relocation the radius rods will now fit as stock. one thing i havent tried was to swap pver the ea82 swaybar, if you could make the mounts or transfer them from an ea82, you can eliminate the ea81's rear facing swaybar and have better clearance for the tranny and a dual exhaust now, if you are going to use ea82 strut/knuckle you will now have the right ball joint hole. for the xt6 stuff you either need an xt6 lower control(same as ea82 but bigger hole) or just drill out the hole you will have to swap in ea82 inner and outer tierods, both ends. on power racks this is possible, but not with power to manual rack. you need the extra length for the width of the track on my example i used the ea81 strut cap on the ea82 strut. i had to make the hole bigger, keep the half moon shape and trim up the bushing. this would fit the same for legacy struts for 5lugs

ok, you have what is called a 3-door. hatchback referrs to the older models. for 86 the hatchback refers to the STD model. yours must be a gl model not much for swapping motor without swapping in harnesses and ecu's. but your best bet would to find some sort of weber carburetor and do some customs to the exhaust what kind of driving does your car see?

under the hood on the driver side firewall there are a pair of green connectors and black connecotors. you plug the green connectors in to read the codes, and the black connectors to clear them drop the plastick kickpanel from the dash and you will see the led on the front of the ecu. you only need to drop the panel down a few inches to see in the usmb repair manual there is a writeup for reading codes

under the hood there are a pair of green connectors and black connecotors. you plug the green connectors in to read the codes, and the black connectors to clear them drop the plastick kickpanel from the dash and you will see the led on the front of the ecu. you only need to drop the panel down a few inches to see in the usmb repair manual there is a writeup for reading codes

sorry i didnt think of the cracked head, the threads stripping out means the block has probable been overheated as aluminum will turn granular if its heat damaged. i myself have an rx with a carb motor, but its ea82. but still, the ign you can use the same coil, and leave all the mpfi harness alone and hanging. you may one day in the future come across another turbo motor, and you can go back to that with all the wiring still there you will have to mix and match with radiator hoses, you will want the ea81 hose for the top and the ea82 hose for the bottom. you can even use the ea82 water pump so you can keep the upper radiator hose and water pipe, and use the clutch fan. doing this will also allow you to use the ea82 alt and ac bracketry, it will bolt up enough to work, you will need the dual pulley alt(non ac) and use the outer belt, with the crank pulley being offset slightly behind.. you could swap in either radiartor, i believe the ea81's will be 2 row

on the airbox there is a round piece with a black box on top where the clamp fits to. this is the MAF, it has a black wide connecor to a wire with a funny clip.

the stock air cleaner assembly is pretty water proof on its own. you would only need a snorkel if you are driving in floods or crossing water as high as the hood. you would have to invent a snorkel, and have to ditch the stock air cleaner for the most part

the hatchback is an ea81 but you can put an ea82 in just as easily. is you car auto or stick, 2 or 4wd? an ea82 with carb from an 85 or 86 wagon or sedan,3-door will be ideal. go with the ea82 y pipe also

i have seen them at napa and also at adv. auto or autozone in ghe "help" brand aislt. as long as you know the dimensions 1.25 thread 10mm. may be labelled "import manifold studs"

i think the possibility of a dropped valve seat is most likely. they can wedge a valve open and still manege to seal. open enough the cam does nothing