MilesFox

i had an ea81t with 3 in home built lift, 5spd d/r trans, and 185/80 tires on stock rims. i dumped the clutch at an intersection and spun all the ties then i realized it was in 2nd gear 4-hi

we towed a sedan with a wagon, stock hitch and a tow bar, some hour and 60 miles on the interstate, 4th gear 60 mph 4,000 rpm. did fine, temp and oil p'. stayed constant the whole time

we cooked an assortment of campbell's soup under the hood of the rx on out last road trip. one of them caught the alternator and cooked all over the head, lentil soup stain to this day!

if it has cruise you can unbolt the diaphragm and bolt it to the new box, also there is a bracket on the fuse box, unbolt it, too

yeah, you would have to modify the front crossmember for the xt6 parts

you can take away at the middle of the exhaust port, you can blend the webbing in a little at the corners, and on the outer circumfrence you can take away at the curvature from the exhaust valve chamber on the intake side you can round out the bends, and blend in the protrusions from the lifter cavity. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/porthead.jpg a dremel with the smake atatchment works well http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/port3.jpg http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/port2.jpg webbing. cracks in this area will lose coolant into exhaust port. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/portexhaust.jpg you can grind away around the valve guides. dont worry about the cracks between the valves, on these heads they went to tthe valve guides and the head was good. you can flatten the cracks down with a punch, beware of them letting the valve seats fall out, stake them in. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/porthead.jpg

the 23 spline from 3at, the 25 spline from full time 4at and turbo 5spds are the same, as well as xt6. all you have to do is swap the proper cup end onto the axle you are using, and install a new boot clamp

try checking or replacing the ecu coolant temp sensor, its licated near the turbo and has a clip like the injectors do

the doj from a 3at turbo axle is the same diameter as the 25 spline axle, but it has a 23 spline count. this way you can have a 23 spline axle that has the turbo durability. if you decide to but new axles altogether order for a turbo automatic 3spd, any model, as long as its not for full time autos(4spd)

aside from the excessive play, the clutch cable may need tightened up a slightly to compensate for wear. if the cable is too slack the cl8tch disc will drag enough to spin the synchro and make it hard to get 1st and reverse from a stop

find out where subarus live and wait for them to break axles and timing belts. anything with a ttle for me is worth putting on the road, even if its only just a dashboard with a title and a "junk car" but that's only really practical if you live in indiana, buy an out of state car for 100 bucks and throw it together with spare parts and call it registered.

yake up the "turbo" air plenum, pop off the hose from the bottom, just behind the turbo you will see the clip, its tan color and looks like the clip on each fuel injector. one of the hoses will be near in the way, but you can get it with a 17mm socket and extension

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

maybe the battery is not dead, but the starter solenoid wont engage like everyones screwy ign switches.l

so what are you doing about the suspensions? also, the models withteh fatter doj can have a 25 spline cup swapped to fit full time and turbo trannies

on my application i used legacy 2wd struts with my xt6 setup in aN 87 TURBO WAGON, USING THE EA82 STRUT CAP. when i had ea82 suspension in my 83 wagon, i used a modified ea81 strut cap, so if it fots on an ea82 strut it will fit on an xt or legacy strut in fact, you can use the legacy hub and knuckle, but you wont have the ea style front parking brake, no parking brake at all

ita only really gonna matter when its in 4wd. and really only when in 4wd on dry pavement, which is a no-no. you will be ok, as long as the tire is the correct sizeit seems that i have been changing tires quite often, using up my spares and getting flats, yet my tranny has been in my last 3 cars!

compile the seRCH RESULTS and post them on the FAQ section

i meant xt6 you relocate the ea81 lower control arm mount back one width, make the mount to the rear of the original. the ea82 lower control arm has a different curve and is longer, so now you will be able to use the xt6 axle which is longer than the ea81. the stock radius rods will fit. if you have the power steering you can swap the inner tie rods to ea82, then use the ea82 or xt6 tie rod ends. actuelly, you can use the xt6 lower control arm for this mod, or you will have o drill out the ea82 ball joint hole use xt6 or legacy struts with the ea81 astrut cap, you will have to make the strut shaft hole larger in the ea81 strut cap. on the rear the xt6 caliper assembly will boly right up, that or you can mount the xt6 whole trailing arm if you make the ea81 mount holes bigger for the ea82's bolt.

you would need the doj from a 3at turbo axle to fit the 23 spline tranny. that or you will need a full time or turbo MT. you would have to relocate the lower control arm mount to use ea82 front suspensions, and xt hubs and knuckles. the ea82 mod will allow use of the stock xt6 or legacy axle you could keep the existing suspension and modify the tierod and ball joint holes, but you will have to get a custom made axle here are some search results pertaining to the ea82 suspension conversion: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17419&highlight=lower+control http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17419&highlight=ea82+conversion

i agree dont pull the intake. you will only have the fuel line, throttle cable, and wire harness for the intake. having the motor out will give the opportunity to fix other seals. the engine is designed to be pull ed as a complete unit, leave all the ac ands alternator bracketyt and components there unless you decide to remove the timing belt covers engine removal procedure: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineremoval.htm engine seals http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineseal.htm more http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

the high ignition coil and wires is stressing the ignitor in the disty. my rx with carb motor left me stranded in ohio one night, ran the battery out trying to start it. got a jump the next morning and she fired. i got as far as pulling out of the gas station when it crapped again. so i swapped back in the original coil and managed to get home. swapped the disty and he was fine

too late now, but the shifter could have come off with the tranny, save yourself a sawzall blade!

turn the timing up a little, put on a 2 inch exhaust, hi flow air filter or holes in airbox. tune up good. jims sedan has a larger screen and filter in the auto tranny, and he swears it will almost spank the 4spd auto turbo wagon. i tell you myself the sedan will get up and go, 2 inch pipe from the y pipe back usually pushing the search issue is preceded by "im new to the board" i made this point here, but after someone else raised the issue: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627698

no it wont work, but i have done it the other way around, i put a carb motor in a fi car, the motor would run untill it flooded out because the pump was pushing fuel past the float and needle valve!