MilesFox

get the clutch cable how you like it, however high you like your pedal, and then adjust the hill holder. dont make the hill holder too tight or it will drag the brakes when you try to take off

undr the front diff would be the most ideal spot for the collector. you could even make aheat shield. with all involved making such a pipe, why not try a dual pipe. do one that comes off the heads like this one, but instead of the collector have the pipes converge in an 'X' right under the front diff, then go along the sides just inside of the frame rails, and then have a flange for different muffler or pipe setups after. looks nice like jesse james put it together himself:)

thanx!

if you did mean the down pipe off the back of the turbo, there is a steel line that runs along the turbo head that comes from the bottom of the head, and leads to a rubber hose just below the turbo. be sure to check that one, as well as the hose on top of the turbo

thanx q. we found the article in the usrm, but the computer wont print! anyway we read that you will need to use 3.7 axle shafts to match the ring gear. we have the lsd and the 3.9, both with one torched stub each. but we DO have an open 3.7 that we can use for the axle shafts, a matching pair

who was it that knows what size toll was required to disassemble the rear differentiol, the "inverted torx socket". whats the part number and where do we get it. search was futile, it was posted not too long ago

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html#row1[/url] here are some pictures of an engine teardown of an ea82 mpfi tirbo down to the heads. also is the porting work with the dremel

make sure they dont count your clean aluminum as irony, i took 300 pounds of engine blocks and stuff, and what i know was clean they counted as irony, and ripped me off about 50 bucks in weight, i was not happy, didnt know until ifter i had my weigh ticket. in my case, it wast worth my time to clean up my aluminum for some 2 cents a pound. pop cans pay more than that. but thats my location, i wouldnt doubt dude re sorted the metal and paid himself what i should have got.

mind you my lift was home made, but what i did was take the splined part off the ea81 rack and cut it in half, lengthened it as much as needed, and used the ea82 double u-joint to couple that to the steering column. mine was a bit hard to steer, but it was a manual rack with 16 inch chevy wheels drilled to fit, HEFTY!

make the spfi system standalone, so that it will swap with the engine. keep the carter weber and put it on the ea82 out of the donor car for a later project, a backup motor, or put it in the 86 and have the spfi ea81 for another project(like a big set of legos!)

if you can manage to pop out the speaker cover on the driver side, the screws are at the top of the speaker and go up thru, it will be difficult finding a replacement speaker of the same shape, so you may have to invent a way to fit the replacement speaker to the old ones bracket.

the foam padding stuff i mentioned with my speakers i used to line the inner metal of the car when i had the interior panels out. im not sure where to find it, but its the same type pf foam that some swimming toys at walmaty are made of, the "fun noodle" type foam, it comes in big rolls. some of my insulation is regular carpet padding, im sure you could find some readily available, use it where moisture wont be a problem line the inside of the tailgate and anywhere you can all over the car, i can actually hear my stero over my loud exhaust with the windows up!

the high roof model you mention is called the Touring Wagon here in the us. the ones with more velour are the gl-10 models, they have the velour seats and door panels, and also the trip computer and a digital instrument cluster in the us, subarus were called DL, GL, and STD from 80-98. in 1990, subaru came out with the legacy. so since there was a new line with a name, the dl/gl from 90-94 were called the loyale in the us, the gl-loyake models have the composite single piece headlight with the replaceable halogen bulb. the DL models have the standard 4 headlight system using sealed beam headlights mechanicaly the cars are the same, in the us and overseas, from body panels to interior options to the motor and driveline.

the horn circuit grounds thru the switch. like john said they are behind the headlight area. the pushbutton 4wd is vacuum operated. there is a pair of vacuum solenoids on the drivers side(left hand drive) strut tower. they have a line each to a diaphragm on the tranny itself. they are supplied vacuum to from the vac canister on the other side of the firewall, check all the little plastic lines that run from it to the solenoids just under the rubber hood seal on the firewall. the canister itself is supplied vacuum to from a rather narrow hose that runs from thi intake manifold and along the strut tower. ususlly the hose has a reducer fitting from a larger hose on the intake itself does the heater vent selector work? if say you put it on defrost and it blows out the dash vent, that will confirm having no vacuum on the canister, since the heater controls work off the same vac supply

sounds like a rare beast being a carb dual range gl-10. buy it for novelty's sake. most gl-10 would be turbo or spfi autos, single range 5spds. dual range is where the money's at, that alone makes the car worth having if you are performance minded for off road or inclement weather such as DEEP SNOW. not any different mechanically than any 85-86 carb soob, but its the last model for a carb, plus the added bonus of the gl-10 ammenities. does it have a sunroof? the only other odd model of gl-10 that i have known of is a 2wd 3at spfi sedan

use a wagon and a brat. use the wagon for the front passenger area, front door and such, the use brat for the back, do u want 2 or 4 doors? 2-doors would still be more appropriate with a wagon to start with.

how do you mean by styling? there is not really anything aftermarket for styling, but if you an be creative then you cen get the effect you want. you could swap in parts from different trim lines, such as gl-10 or xt seat and gl-10 door panels for richer interior, mix and match interior panel colors to get 2-tone effect. wonders can be done with spray paint if you know how to use it properly, like accenting the cars shape with selectively painted body lines, stripes, 2-tone etc. i like black steel wheels with chrome trim rings myself. mount some lights, get some interior lighting as well, gauges, do something different that what everyone tried to copy. break out the sawzall and the welder. its allabout creativity he way i see it. ricer boys ask me "how much money did you waste on your car" and i tell them i put it together with stuff i already had

dont worry about the cracks between the valves, but DO worry about cracks in the EXHAUST PORT make sure you follow the torque sequence, and use graphite faced gaskets and also if u like copper gasket sealer. if you are NOT replacing the belts you can ulbolt the cam sprockets and later slip the belts back on without loosening the tensioner(if using the same belts) there is an 0-ring in the head gasket, make sure your set has them and dont forget them. also replace the o-ring on the cam towers where they meet the head. use a anaerobic sealer for the cam towers, permatex ultra grey is what you want, or any other brand of the same nature install the cam tower with tehcam as 12:00 position, the little pin would be UP, and use bearing grease or break-in lube to 'glue' the rockers to the lifter/valves, to hold them in place its much easier to do head gaskets with the motor out of the car,(do both of them at the same time) it will save you more time than the time it takes to pull the motor. it sucks to do them in the car to realize that one of the rockers fell out when you were trying to put the cam towers on, after you start it up!

alsoo with running the ea82 spfi manifold and distributor, tou will have to eliminate the egr and block it off to clear the bellhousing. the distributor is gonna fight for space with teh thermostat housing, you willhave to cut off one of the mounting tabs to the disy, and take the part where the screw goes thru and mount it upside down, and then mount the disty 180 off and wire to the cap 180 off from it so the rotor and wires are true to the firing order.

ugh! no wing?! no offense, my opinion, but the wing is what gives the rx its shape. i could see losing the side skirts, but having no wing makes the car look slopey like a buick!, like a "beefed up 3-door". more seriously, it has somewhat of an 80's mustang look without. keep the front air dam, i have a set of lights under the bumper that would just not look right without the front wing. paint the roof black and the lid of the tailgate, that would give it some shape, tint all the windows! then paint the raised center portion of the hood balck also.*opinion*

its not much different to change the oil pump seal than on the old pushrod, but you do have to take all the plastic timing belt covers. here is what will be involved http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm take it from me, and leave all the plastic covers off, and that will make any fture maintenance a breeze, say a 3 hour timing belt job can be done in 20 minutes! read more: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

i got a pair of 8's under the front SEATS. i used some thick foam type padding around the circumfrence mounted with screws and duct tape. it's not so loud, but it does fill in the sound spectrum and you can feel the bass in your 'nus

keep the heads. also the oil pump and the water pump, timing belt tensioner pulleys too.

its the only touring wagon i have ever seen

on trashwagon 5, i removed the headliner and used a thin piece of plywood between the roof itself and the spars. then went on the headliner, and i could use screws wherever to mount whatever the roof of boom now resides in the RX, the amp mounts directly to the rear roof ahead of the gate, wood screws thru the metal(not the roof itself, and the same on tw5) the speakers are now under the front seats i do, however, have a console from the ceiling of a van, and it mounts directly to the spar that contains the dome light, wood screws again. it is on this console i have a set of van map lights and the cb mounts to the structure of the console itself. sooner or later i will have pictures of "trash3-door: the fastback 2-door wagon, but right now its "secret mobile" status (no pics)