MilesFox

if the old alt has a tab on the back, a 3rd wire, its externally regul;ated and the ea82 alt will not work without wiring mods. if there is no 3rd wire, then its a direct swap

under the hood, there are green connectors and black(or white) connectors on the driverside firewall near the strut tower. plug the black connectors(single blade) together to read the codes. there is an led on the ecu, just drop the plastic down under the steering column enough to see the led

toggle switch! the fuel pump is right behind the rear passenger tire, 3 bolts and 2 hoses, there is a filter there too. if you hardwired it you can run 12v+ from the +coil terminal to the pump, and ground the pump to the body i would run the wires thru the fuel or brake line grommets on the floor, and ground the wire to a bolt on the seat or any bolt in the area

the ends will fit the same, so lengt will be for whatever you are using, but one end will fit to the others the same, same threads and all on the trailing arms, you can use the rubber hose from the rear disc and connect it to the steel line on the trailing arm itself

on some of the areas, say a hole a few inches, but has metal all around it, you can use fiberglass. i used a bondo brand fiberglass cloth kit, with resin inclused, for a hole in the arch of the fender, and from where the rear fender arch wad rusting out. but from your pictures the entire arch is missing, which you will need some kind of metal welded or riveted on, the n use bondo(try the fiberglass reinforced) to fill in and get the shape and smothness right

i assume you know how to use the towbar, wheel unlocked, etc tow the brat in neutral, in 2wd all four wheels on the ground. as long as its not in 4wd, or not in gear, you will be ok

did you take the distributor off? if so it may be out of alignment. rotate the crank so the 3 marks are in line, and the driver side cam dot is up. from there, rotate untill you see the 0 deg mark and then line your distributor to #1. the #1 will be the one to the right of the screw on the back of the cap, the firing order is 1,3,2,4, counterclockwise. the distributor turns 1/2 times as the crank pilley, so the crank will turn 2 times for the distributor 1 time go thru the motions to make sure the ign timing is right, then report back when you crank, the dist is turning, do you have spark at the coil wire?

old post, let me add to my commenmt that i used a pump off a fat case(85+) ea71 to fit on the ea81

i say do it, if you run your soob into the ground at least you have invested in the lift that can be swapped into something else. my only bad experience with rust was above the tube frame assembly, inside the rear wheel well, if that part is rusted OUT, then you may droop in the rear suspension (after a while, or some tough baja'n). i wouldnt worry too much, go for it!

scrape away any crud on the crossmember and clean out the engine compartment really good

as far as head gaskets, get tha napa victor brand. you can get the who;le set(for ALL ea82, enough gaskets for a block teardown) you can be more economical and get the head gasket set, and then get the engine seals separate(so you arent buying excess gaskets) the full set at napa is almost 300 bones, but the head set (head gasket/valve job) is i believe 135. it should have the intake gaskets included.

make sure you have a good crew aboard, yess it can be done within a 24 hour period. but that is given you know what to expect. pull the motor. pull the trans from the top if you chose. lower the 5spd in from the top. have a buddy do the pedal box while you do the engine seals. install the motor fully assembled get the car running and driving, then swap the rear parts(and driveshaft)

yeah, you will have to get the underhood vac solenoids, tou should be able to wire them up yourself, to either the shifter or a shifter plate(diff lock) either WAY, THE XT6 TRANS HAS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT SHIFTERS THAT wont fit the same on the ea82 car, so you may have to swap shifter pieces. a single range will fit nicely if you slot the one hole on the mount that bolts to the back of the tranny

is your wagon single range 4wd? if so, the 4wd vacuum mechanisms will work the diff lock the same, and the locked diff will behive like the single range in 4wd mode. and swap in the diff to match, the clutch assembly and driveshafts are the same. you may have to change the clutch cable itself, or be inventive. use the crossmember mount from your old tranny. i used the cars original shifter, on the xt6 linkages, and the 4wd button was my diff lock, no electrical or vac mods

do you feel the thumping in the wheel or the seat? could be the DOJ

i'll try pulling the wires to the pressure switches and see what that does. the blower fan will work normally on all other settings besides ac.

all ea82 4wd 5spds, turbo and non, full time and part time, use the same clutch disc

i like to use cannel plies around the circumfrence to get it moving, and once it goes too far in for the pliers thin i use the handle end of pliers or needle nose pliers to turn ot some more. be sure not to press the brake pedal with the caliper off, but the parking brake is ok to use. if the piston is hyper extended you may nered to tap it with a hammer till it catches a thread and turns in

if youre gonna start by buying NEW struts, make sure you come up with strut caps and springs too, as well as the proper tools. if you pull them out of the junkyard the strut will obviously be assembled with the caps and springs-direct swap in

no, the relay is good. i think this may have something to do with a short-to-ground in the ac circuit. this is jims 86 spfi sedan. the test connectors are under the dash. things i am keying on: codes flash with no test connectors connected, fan stays on without ac on. the thermoswitch fan cirgiot still works with the relay removed(jumper test) in the haynes book there is a "sub fan control" relay with a blu wire and a blu/black wir, and also 2 wires that go to "exterior lights" marked "nca" this is what i mean by haynes is junk. anyway, it shows the blu/black wire going to a "sub fan " relay, and blu/red then to "condensor fan" motor. but in between it has "nca" the blu/black wire goes to "condensor fuse". is this the one under the hood. if so the colors dont jive, there is a fat white and a smaller blue wire, and the haynes says blu/grn and wht on the sub fan relay the yel wire goes to the ac relay, and also to the main fan control relay. it shows te ac switch, low and high pressure switches in series, and the ac DOES come on, so those are obviously good if i unplug the ac(black) relay the ac turns off now whats screwy is i unplug the brown relay(which one is that?)and the ac blows colder, fan quits. but if plugged in, the ac is not as cold,and the blower will quit

also you can plug in the green test connectors under the dash(mpfi) or on the firewall by the wiper motor(spfi) plug them in and the fuel pump will cyle on and off test the plug for the pump itself. first put + on the red and - on the black. if you get voltage good, if not. put the = on the red and- on the body(ground) if you get voltage there you have a bad ground in the FP circuit, but you can make your own ground on the body. you can run the wire thru the brake line grommet and ground it to the rear seat bolt

mpfi turbo from 87 on is 20 deg 85-86 mpfi turbo is 25 deg (look under your hoods[sticker])

the fan is on all the time. if you remove the brown relay the fan goes off. but the fan should only be on with the AC. if you turn the ac on, the blower will quit after a few minutes. if you remove the brown relay, it will blow colder. the ecu will flash codes although none of the test connetors are connected. is there a ground problem or what? the haynes schematic"typical 80-86 heating, ac, and cooling" is junk does anyone have a lead on a good schematic. i cant find any rigged up wiring of any sort.

stock timing for a carbureted subaru motor is 8 deg. i am running my 86 carb motor in the rx at 10

for exhaust, you can use the header pipe off some later model ea82 fuel injected(spfi) for more flow, then cusom after the flange, the spfi pipe is tuned just right for subaru, that will get all your scavenging effect. it is possibe to use the ea82 motor from later 85-87 carb ea82, in conjunction with the 5spd dual range box. i myself have had an ea82, 5spd, and ea82 front suspensions, rear discs in an 83 wagon.. dependint on what motor/tranny combo you use will determone you clutch/flywheel configuration. if your motor needs rebuilt, maybe you can consider an ea82(timing belt) motor for replacement. thw motor itself will fit with no mods the way i made my mods was to mod the car itself to accept stock(replacement) parts. feel free to ask anyhing specific