MilesFox

#1 cylinder on the disty cap is the one that faces rearmost to the firewall. its will be closest to the clip or screw for the cap on the back side. the screw will be slightly to the right of the #1 connection the rotor rotates counter clockwise, and #1 cylinder is ont he front passenger side of the motor

sometimes you have to tap the piston with a hammet to get it to catch a thread on the screw mechanism. otherwise its turn turn turn to no avail. try actuatiting the parking brake lever on the caliper for your initial turning

very clean rx, non-rusty is a plus. my rx looks like a trashwagon. what's in mind for a project;)

well, if say your exhaust was missing you can put a 2 inch pipe and a cherry bomb after the flange on the y pipe. have the 'bomb after the flance and then the pipe. depending on wherer you live and exhaust laws you may need to run a whole length of pipe to the tailpipe. an exhaust shop should be able to make you a pipe for around 100 bucks including cost of pipe and muffler. you will be able to do this with off the shelf piece it together piece it together exhausts from auto-zone. no i dont mean the flex-oopipe. i suggest having the seams welded if possible the annoying sound of a rice rocket is from being choked down at the tailpope into a big canister tip. a 'bomb is rather mellow and the sound can be manipulated with how you arrange it in the exhaust and the dimensions of the pipe after the outlet.

tom, try mounting the disty bracket upside down and opposite, and install the disty 180 opposite. just ruin your wires 180 off from the newly oriented cap, so that the rotors and wires are true to their original orientation. are you using ea81 or ea82 ancillaries?

take the 4wd out of the wrecked car and put it in the good car. use the eftover automatic parts to put back into the wrecked car. sell the wrecked one or just have it around as a driveable car for junkyardin or whatever

6. what about xt bumpers?

yeah tom, you have seen the likes of my cargo capacity, but i could say that i was TWICE as loaded down than the xt6 haul. i need the driveshaft for a 5spd, actually i have aq rear half so all i really need is the front half. i have both a dual range tranny and a single range tranny. i guess iwould be more interested in a d/r trans for the immediate, and save the s/r tranny for the IOWA sedan

really the y pipe is all the exhaust needs. immediately after that is the muffler for sound, then the rest is just pipage to the back. the 'bomb has one end opening bigger than the other. the small end is the exit, so if you want rpm or torque, put the bomb on one wat or the other. simple theory for the home brew exhaust system

our 4wd conversion sedan blew out a strut cap baja'n. we replaced it and it happened again. it turned out to be a bad strut which was tearing out the strut cap

hmm, the tach in my rx just quit working, and i think it may be due to a pre-existing wiring problem in the dash. damn them electricals. at least your car still runs. the rx now has a carb motor due to its electricals

it was me, myoss feece, jim wood and alleyboy. we originated from alleyboy's. jim drove his wagon and hauled off the tires and some small stuff. we took the rest, picked up another tranny, the radiator, and stopped by jims on the way home, took on 6 tires, and made our way another 100 miles now i got to figure out where to keep all of this stuff. the sedan and the rx are both loaded down with parts. but now i have everythign to convert the sedan to 4wd minus a shifter and a driveshaft i truly wish we found a scale because we had to be over the GVWR. the tires looked half flat at 36 psi if that tells you anything. but we made almost 200 miles with no problem at all

we went to the junkyard and hauled off with MAJOR components off 3 cars in 3.5 hours with 4 people junkin, and we put everything minus 4 tires from the back of a dodge truck into the lyale wagon ej22 long block, and its intake, and ac/alt and all the small parts to it an ea82 mpfi long block 5spd s/r tranny w/ crossmember 5spd d/r tranny ea82 y pipe ej y pipe 2 ea82 trailing arms with brake drums ea82 rear suspension tube frame ea82 rear axles ENTIRE legacy rear suspension incl struts, axles and 4.111 diff Pair of ea82 lower control arms with radius rods pair of ea82 front knuckle/brake radiator pair ea82 front axles PAIR OF LEGACY FRONT KNUCKLE/AXLE/BRAKE ASSY legacy rear swaybar spfi throttle body fuel pump 2 starters diff hanger bar on top of all that was a tool box, jump pack, 3 tool bags, a duffel bag and a blanket, pair of shoes all of this in the back of the car loded down, about 1.2 inch off the bumpstops, from columbus oh to fort wayne. im sure we were loaded down at least 1000 lbs

ok. thats good. at least that tells me the car wasnt junked over blown up gears due to mixed ratios, my tranny should be good since it was SHINY when it came out, the clutch looks to have been replace. all i needed to know thanx!!!!!!!!

if your pipes are too fat the motor will not have any scavenging effect, and it would only be benificial at way high rpms. too fat of pipes will have no torque. ever drive a car with NO y-pipe at all. slow to move but responsive on the highway. a skinnier pipe will get the exhaust gases moving on thru, the exhaust pulse. if you are making a pipe why not make duals? from the heads to the collector you should use 1.75 inch pipe. same for duals. after the collector you can go 2 inch. after the muffler you can go as fat as you want basically on a stock setup, the y pipe does all the scavengoing effect, put a muffler after the flange for the backpressure, and then the rest is pure flow/sound after the muffler

throttle position sensor

hey, the only thing different between the turbo and tour mpfi long block is the compression. the heads are the same but the turbo heads have an oil passage, if you use a turbo head just plug the oil passage with a fitting. this would be the turbo side head. the other head are the same between mpfi and turbo, dual ports you may not need the head, if you suspect a cracked head, ignore the cracks between the valves, those are normal. what to look out for in a cracked head is a crack in the exhaustt port. a cracked head will leak coolant out the exhaust port, but still have good compression the car would run fine untill enough coolant leaks out to get hot

the little rubber boot on the sheath of the throttle cable came loose and wedged itself into the groove on the throtle bracket itself, keeping it from returning

i parted off this xt at the junkyard in columbus oh, the only thing missing was an axle. anyway, this car is a late 88, non turbo mpfi with the spider intake, and pushbutton 4wd single range tranny. its not full time, it has 23 spline axles, but the rear had a 3.7 i am certain the trans is the one that is supposed to be there, i cant think of any na 3.7 except for 3at in 85-86. so would this tranny be a 3.7 or a 3.9?

all turbo 5spds are 25. all non turbo 5spds are 23 all 3at's are 23 spline. the turbo axle has the fat 23 spline doj that will fit on xt6 axles all full time turbo or not, and 4spd at are 25 spline

i got your email i read that you used the ea82 flywheel and it was all good, after grinding the bellhousing as far as the coil and all the extra wiring, all you had to do was hook up the distributor and leave all the other wiores alone. the ecu will just be hangin out, and the distributor itself will trip the coil to fire, rather than the ecu signal and the amplifier(the little transistor on the bracket) glad to see you got this to work considering it was only an idea when i first read your posts asking of the idea(ea81 motor in an ea82T car)

yeah, the mount is one width back, you can ground off the one from the ea82 crossmember and weld it into place on the ea81, trim the excess. so you will be using ea82 lower control arm, so you WILL have to drill the ball joint hole. the only exception to this is if you have the xt6 lower control, which is the same as an ea82 but has the larger ball joint hole already

for what reason do you need to remove the bellhousing? no it doesnt come off. are you planning a tranny swap because the length of the tranny is not the issue, its the combination of parts you use. trannies come in 3 sizes. 4spd dual range 5spd dual range automatoc 4wd the difference in the fitment of these trannies between different soobs is the driveshaft that goes with them. if you swap the trans and driveshaft it came with, you are good to go. but the 4 spd has a single piece driveshaft, and the 5spd has a 2 piece, so if you want a 4spd in place of the 4spd, you will need the 2 pc driveshaft and make a mount for the carrier, or you will have to modify the length of the single shaft

lne the 3 marks on the flywheel o the motor is centered. . make sure you are on the power stroke by seeing that the cam on the disty side points up. now turn the flywheel till you see the 0 deg marks. drop your disty so that the rotor is pointing to the back terminal, just to the rght of the screw(or clip) that holds the cap on. that is your #1. its the first plug on the passenger front side of the motor, its the termonal on the far back of the disty. here is some more reading that may help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24

ported heads with the ol dremel and flex extension, carb block. open the exhaust and chop the air box!