MilesFox

dont forget that although that was posted from my website, it was written by TROGDOR!

what is it some kind of justy minivan?

so is something going on next weekend? well if all else fails BURN IT TO THE GROUND

dont forget to figure out how to remove the cross pipe and turbo before you pull the heads. my advice is to pull the motor, if you have a crane.the motor will puill out with everything still on it. you can do the head gaskets with the motor sitting in a 5 gal bucket. the time it takes to pull the motor will save tou time doing it in the car.

4wd? how about the axle nut?(on drum) is the cone washer there?

whoa another meet! i didnt know about this. im in fort wayne with zanny dook. sorry no carbola here, or pigz for that matter, but plenty or rr viaducts and industrial parks for the urban baja'n! hey i got a license now, so what's the plan. got a new job as a "carpet technician" its actually a REAL job. just started have yet to see some money. maybe you can plan a meet around my jury trial on oct 27. the courts dont even know whats going on, court moved up again. not as accessible to the internet, my # is (260) 424-2464

turned out to be a hole in the radiator. motor runs strong to this day some 2 oil changes and a few thousand miles later in the rx. temp gauge still cooked, but works anyway, cold 190, warm 250, pegged youre too hot!

baja'n in weeds taller than the car, mud and grass and sticks and gravel. broke both belts at the same time because of a LOOSE RAG UNDER THE HOOD. fixed it off the side of the road in 20 minutes with used belts, a flashlight, 3/8" ratchet and a 12mm socket. and a 7/8 socket. drove home 40 miles. went baja'n the next day

you could convert to an ea82 lower control arm with a little fabrication. the fabrication involves making the control arm mount behind the original. since the ea82 control arms curve froward versus the straught ea81, the wheels will be in the proper location for the axle and all. but this will set the track a little wider, and thus you will gain a little positive camber and more wheel travel. you can use the ea82 strut and knuckle assembly with a modified ea81 strut cap. power steering inner tie rods can be swapped to the ea82 for the proper width.

the ea82 drum will fit if you swap over the backing plate and all. in fact, you can swap an entire trailing arm/brake assembly from an ea82 with slight trimming. the axle nuts and shaft splines will all be the same between either.

the difference in the xt6 lower control is the size of the ball joint hole, which is the same as legacys and impreza. but other than that they are the same. on my setup i used ea82 control arms drilled out for the xt6 5 lugs, using the xt6 axle. so by that there is no axle/lower control conflicts between ea82 and xt6

john, we stopped by in the RX on our wv trip! remember? the rx now is carb 5spd, but it was bone stock with its turbo and all, except for the bum legged 5 lug in the rear. the motors are exactly the same as any other ea82 turbo snowman, if i were you i would pull the heads from both motors, and pick between the best ones. what you want to look for is cracks in the exhaust port i once used a questionable head with the ecrack in the exh. port, but it turned out a valve seat dropped in the other head. what i would say to do is pick the best heads, have them checked out, and ask the mechanic if he can stake the valve seats to ensure they dont fall out. a dropped valve seat is the most common thing i have seen bad on heads, given that ANY ea82. i wouldnt worry about the short block as long as there is no milkshake in the oil(or for extended duration) and if the timing belt covers are not melted off. if anything make sure it has good oil pressure. synthetic oil will help in the pressure dept.

the dash lights are on the (stop-room) fuse, the taillight circuit

spfi and mpfi, turbo optical disty's(87+) are mechanically the same. but between turbo and non turbo, the rotor will be slightly different, but one rotor will fit on the other(round shaft will fit the d-shaft) but like caleb mentions the wiring may be different, but the wire itself will swap between disty housings

the cracks between the valves are more than normal. its all metal between there and there are NO oil or water passages between th4e valve webbing. if you are indeed losing coolant thru the heads, any cracks in the EXHAUST PORT should be the ones to worry about. if no cracks in the exhaust ports, you will be ok. between the valves you can even take a punch and smash down the cracks and flatten them out. that will keep them under control and keep them from getting wider. cracks wider than a fingernail may one day allow the valve seats to drop, so if you do want to have the heads serviced, mention something to the machanic about if he can stake in the valve seats for good measure

if yours is already pushbutton 4wd then all the mechanism for the diff lock is there, the 4wd button will be your diff lock switch. mind you that you will need a tanny that has a diff lock, find yourself a dual range full time rx tranny. but if you use a full time tranny you will need the appropriate 25 spline axle off a full time or turbo 5spd if not your best bet is the regular dual range, it has lower gearing better for off road and large tires. dual range will bolt in, if yours is already 4wd then all you need is the trans and shifter, the existing flywheel, axles, clutch, driveshaft and diff will fit the same. the clutch cqable should also fit the same, the only differences i have seen are between 2wd and 4wd

i have had the most luck with the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, on 3 cars it made a big improvement

all 3spd automatics use the 23 spline axle, so that means the axle will fit ANY 3at turbo or non, and any non turbo 5spds the only tranny that wont fit the 23 spline axle are the 25 spline full-time, full time dual range(rx) and 4spd automatics(full time)

the green clips when plugged in will cycle the fuel pump off an on when the car is on and the motor is not running. start the car, then plug in the green clips to adjust the static time. then un plug them and there you go. timing should be 20 deg btdc. good luck! pitch the chiltons manual its junk!

they still made carbs thru 87 on the ea82. does the car have a vac hos diagram under the hood? is there any odd connectors that used to be mpfi or spfi? does the coil bracket have the ignotor? if there is an absence of those, i bet the car came as a carb for 87, an odd model. if someone swapped in a carb motpr they would have had to swap in the carb fuel pump, and do some modified wirin tho get the pump to work on its own.

the reverse plug should be the same, it should have green and black wiring, i did one on a 5spd 2wd to 5spd 4wd conversion, and the reverse plug fit the same. the trouble was trying to find out which one was the reverse plug. some instances the wires may be the same but the plug itself may be different

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88dl/cwdata/88dl.htmlhere is what the dl looks like, it has the quad headlights like the older models, and the grille is slightly different to fit the headligh scheme here is what the 85-86 grille looks like http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/wcss5/cwdata/P7050014.html this is what the 3-door grille looks like, this one is white on the RX http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/wcss5/cwdata/P7050015.html and this is the 87 and up grille for ea82 http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/wcss5/cwdata/P7050020.html

you dont have the fuel lines backwards do yop? the inlet is before the injector and the return is after the puel pressure regulator

check to see if the axle nut is loose or needs tightened. replace the conical washer if necessary. if this is your problem, the noise usually goes away when the brake is applied

check to see if the carb gasket is bad, as it may draw water into the intake. also check the intake gaskets themselves