MilesFox

jim, the 4wd suspension alone(conversion) is what bumped the rump roast end up. the wagon still has its original springs.

zanny dooks sedan would read off the scale, racking miles up on the odometer, about 5 miles per mile. so oil in the cable? i'll check that out

if you have a pickle faork(ball jooint separator) pop the ball joint, makes it easier. use a long bar to push the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. WHACK

read this info if you want to try and fix it yourself. this is how i do it, i invented the subaru: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

could be 3.900 lsd

trashwagon4: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon4/trashwagon4001.html the reincarnation of TRASHWAGON, this 83 turbo was converted to 5spd and 3 in lift. a rollover accident and a prts hatch later this was "the worlds ONLY subaru 2-door wagon" trashwagon 5: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/trashwagon5.htm there will be a film about this car, and its westwardly travels. it is now junk, but all the modified bits will go to the iowa sedan, or the turbo wagon ther which is planned for mods, a trashwagon replica(trashwagon8) trashwagon6: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon6/trashwagon6001.html this car was bought for 100 bucks with the motor in the trunk. carb to turbo to carb to turbo rx conversion, 5lugs. this car is the epitome of mix and match. 88 sedan 2wd auto to 4wd 5spd dual range conversion: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan/88sedan001.html this car was our first attempt at a 4wd conversion, 2wd to 4wd, auto to stick. immediately after it moved for the first time after the conversion, we flogged it for 3 days out baja'n 87 subaru RX, TRASH3DOOR: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/87rx001.html this bone stock RX knocked a rod bearing, so in goes the carb block for more compression, and ported heads. pump gas stock timing, west virginia to montana. this car was used to rescue trashwagon 5 from idaho. the car developed an electrical issue, so themotor lives on in trashwagon6. trashwagon 5 is no more, but the motor, trans, and front suspension, carpet interior, lights gauges, 'roof of boom' lives on in TRASH3DOOR, unoficially "trashwagon7: the fastback 2-door wagon"

my carter weber(floppy carb) had a stripped out bolt. there is the one that goes thru to the manifold, and another that goes tru with a nut. it was the screws on the underside, would not hold torque, i would have to remove the carb to tighten them. starting was a pain, had to pump like mad and hold it wide open. idled high when extreme, fixed twice. i liked it better than the hitachi otherwise. i dont know if this is common, but mine was a carter weber

do you need the reciever or the whole thing? there is a bolt-on hitch at woody's in columbus oh. danny has on his ride what you are talking about, but i dont think he has an extra receiver.

there is a cerank angle sensor bui,lt into the disty. i am assuming your car is fuel injected (spfi). the dist sends a signal to the ECU for the spark, and fuel pump. we had a sedan, 88 spfi, 200k, every now and then, usually freezing cold weather, it would crank and crank and no fire. leave it sit for a day and it starts. we replaced with an accel coil, changed the module. but it was a shot in the dark, did it again the next winter. eventually the motor found its way in the loyal. the motor ran with no problem in the sedan. but once it was in the 91 loyale, it would die out, tach falls to 0. leave it sit for a minut and it starts, but dies soon after. we replaced the maf, ignitor, coil, ran again and then stalled. we then replaced the distributor and that solved the problem, we actuall yused the dist from an 87 mpfi turbo, but we swapped the wiring, and the rotor fit(looked better) and that worked with our 88 spfi motor in a 91 loyale

if you bend it at an extreme angle, see of you can dig a ball out. you may need to get it in its magic spot, it may have only one position to come apart. i myself never took one apart, but i know a guy(tomrhere) that has had them apart. may destroy something, be careful. once you get one ball out the rest is easy

if you do trashwagon's lower control arm mod, you can use ea82 axles and thus the 25 spline doj. this will also allow you to go 5-lug as well using stock xt6/leganus axles the idea is to moint a ea82 loere control arm on the ea81 crossmember. but the mount has to be re-located one width back, as the ea82 control arm curves. modify the ea81 strut cap to fit an ea82 strut and youre set.

wiggle it from side to side, it fits onto a shaft that prodrudes theru the pulley. use a long bar and a hammer to tap on the shaft and bust it free. (put a cardboard between the radiator if its not out)

B45702 Oil Pump Mounting Seal EA82 this is the seal you can replace on the oil pump, this will hel[p maintain internal oil pressure if air bubbles in the oil are causing the noist lifters. there is another o-ring on the oil pump itself, get that too. ATF wont do any good unless you plan to change the oil again. if oil pressure itself may be an issue, thicker oil like 20w 50 would be ideal i suggest running open timing belts(no covers) makes this type of work quicjk without having to remove a bunch of stuff http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

my 83 wagon(like a brat) had an entuire ea82 setup. is the brat an automatic(probly not!) if its a 4spd, MT, you use its crossmember, bolted to the 5spd trans now, the 5spd will have some clearance issues in the back, that can be over come by slight beating of the trans tunnel. you mat have to cut out the shifter hole or part of the tunnel(as i did). you can drop the tranny crossmember down a bit by spacing washers between the frame mounts and the body you will need the driveshaft from the 5spd, its the right length for the brat, but you will need to make a mout for the carrier bearing. you can get away with keeping the same rear diff, 3.900 is what you need, its on a tag on the back of the diff the rear trailing arms will swap, but that is not necessary, for the conversion, but they will if you needed them if a wheel bearing went out or bent one) the motor out of the wagon will work in the brat also. but, you will have to relocate the hillholder back an inch or so. i unbolted it and tweaked the brake lines to make room(wanst hooked up) now, the distributor will be rather close to the master cylinder. if you can find an MC from an auto, that will clear better, but is not necessary. the trick is to REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR to install or pull the engine, but thats it. dependin on how you alt/ac bracketry is on the wagon, you can keep all that, and delete the power steering and ac pump. now, i have mocked up an ea81 power steering rack to the ea82 pump and lines, but that car never was complete. on my wagon, it had manual steering you will have to be creative for the dual range lever, it wont mount like a stock brat one will. there is one example(mcbrat) who made an ea82 console fit. another guy here (bratsrus) makes a kit to use the brat style lever with teh 5spd tranny if you want to go further, you can adapt the ea82 suspension in the front, but that requires fabrication and relocation of the lower control arm. it can be done, as i did on my wagon

we had the same problem, turned out to be the tps, same with an spfi. try a replacement to be sure we clocked the tps(screws) to make it think the throttle was more open, and that helped quite a bit. now the occurrence is rare

one guy has put an ea82 turbo into a gen one brat. mmodified motor mounts i do believe i myself have out an ea82 motor in an ea81 car, it all fits the same, just procedure is different: "remove distributor to install or pull motor: as far as what motors and trannies fit, all ea82 trannies fit all ea81 motors. later ea71 has the ea81 bellhoising. older ones(starter on top) can swap a bellhousing with an ea81, to use an old ea71 with an ea81/2 tranny autos and sticks fitr in the same bodies each bodystyle without mods, just have the right mount, drveshaft, and final gear(diff) for the swap 2wds can be converted from auto or stick to 4wd auto or stick. everything is the same, but you will have to swap the entire rear suspension assembly(tube fram, traikling arms, diff,axles) also you will have to modify a mout for the carrier bearing, and drill holes for the diff hanger(ea82) ea81 2wd and 4wd can be swapped with little mods(tranny tunnel), but all the 4wd rear end bolts up, the holes are there on 2wd for the diff mount, and 4wd uses a single piece driveshaft. you can also swap in 5spd 4wd from 4spd 4wd or automatics in an ea81, but you will have to make a mount for the carrier bearing that is pretty much "standard" swap cross reference for 80's model soobs, ea81 and ea82 if you can find an 80 brat, or the front crossmember, it was designed for an ea81 motor. but the older crossmember can be modified slightly, (the steering shaft will be in the way) but around that, you can put an ea81t the same, if you get all the ecu/wiring, etc

without the covers, the cams will line up at the seam of the valve cover and cam tower

my idea of adding an ea82 spring to an ea81 car, is to help it out with weight capacity. like if you have it loaded down, or pull a trailer. i pulled a 2 axle trailer with a car, the soob was not in thebest shape for it(no brakes, incomplete project) but the coiloves had no trouble with tongue weight(compared to stock and a tow dolly)

a replacement motor, say one in the junkyard with a broken timing belt, would be a suitable replacement. cheaper than doing a bottom end build, you would be better off with another motor to reseal i say the ones with broken timing belts because we know it will run when fixed, thats why its in the junk-no one wanted to pay to fix it i would figure 100-200 bucks for a motor, the mre expensive extreme being a complete or sale by owner motor. a junkyard may let you have it for a bill, longblock

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/glossary.htm there is some general terms and stuff like engine designations here is more http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/subaruframe.htm

ok, here it goes. i will assune the lower redings were on one head. lets assume a bad head gasket. ok, now lets try to verivy that: does the coolant boil over(compression in the coolong system) does the cooland disappear?(coolant loss into combustion chamber or cranc case, white steam out the tailpipe its burning in the cylinders) brown sludge on dipstick, case breaters, and oil fill cap(coolant in oil) oil in radiator(oil passage leaking into coolant) its possible the head may be cracked, but the syptoms would be loss of cooland and steam, but even compression. can be not a problem if you keep water in the radiator, depending on the rate of loss suppose now we have varified a bad head gasket, or we have decided to remove the heads and replace them anyway. here is what to look for: a good gasket will stick either to the block or the head. a bad gasket will try to separate on both sides, stickingh to block and head and peeling away as you pull the head. look for shiny spots on one cylinder, or one head, the suspect head(lo comp. reading) shininess like its real clean is where water and steam are burning, that is a dead giveaway of where the gasket failed there bay be cracks between the VALVES, but that is NORMAL. dont sweat those. crack to worry about is in the exhaust ports. i HIGHLY doubt you have cracked heads if you dont want to fix it, sell it to someone who will. dont junk it ,please! the car is really not that bad off. i myself would buy a car like this if it ran and drove(to get it home) and with the mind to fix it(knowing about the problem)

on the extreme, being a rebuilt engine, someone had to touch the bottom end somehow, and mechanic error could have caused a spun bearung (OUCH!)

if you can t find 2wd discs, find 4wd discs and take the whole trailing arm. you will have the axle stub, parrs invested for future conversion! 4wd trailing arms alone on a 2wd will RAISE THE BACK END UP A BIT. easy "lift" for the saggy bottom soob and ea82 rear trailing arms will fit in an ea81 with a little grinding and reaming on one bolt hole

i run with an absence of all the cobvering. i like to leave behind the plastic piece behind the driver belt idler pulley, for 2 reasons: thatis really the only place the backside of the belt is exposed, bolt stays torqued i highly recommend using GOOD torque or some thread locker on the idler pullet, as if its not tight enough it will walk out and snap i could say myself that that is the only problem i had with open belts, and that has to do with wrenching, not exposure over here at alleyboys we are building up a turbo shortblock with re-worked heads, and the vote is no blet covers. i myself prefer open belts, but i dont mind installing the covers say if it were jims motors