MilesFox

although the holes may appear to line up, the axle will only fit in one direction, otherwise its half a hole off. i always stick my punch thru th make sure its lined up before i install the pin all rear axles and most front axles are 23 splines, and a 4spd is 23 splines also you may be able to use a front axle doj on the inner side of the rear axles

john, when i go back to jims this tuesday, i can measure the mount that i built, it fits both ea81 and ea81 bodies. what i did was built the mount around the carrier bearing, bolted it to the bearing, installed shaft and jacked it up against the body, from there i marked where i wanted the holes to be, took it out, drilled, put it back in, and drilled thru the floor with the holes i just made on an ea82 the holes will be right where the trans tunnel starts, and between the seat belt release and the front rib the seat bolts to. it was rather simple to make, all in about 20 minutes, i spent more time looking for the appropriate metal than i did fabbing it up

another thing to check would be the temp sensor for the ecu. not to be confused with the temp sending unit for hte gauge, the one to check is on the back side of the intake near the turbo. you will have to remove the upper plenumn(undo the hose clamps, but you can leave the hose underneath connected) it has a brown clip that looks like the connectors for the injectors. the haynes book will have the testing procedure and the resistance values for this sensor. if the sensor is out of whack, the car will start and run while cold, but onece it warms up and goes into open loop mode, it will throw off the fuel metering. sounds like the car started and ran till it warmed up? how long does it run before it dies? somtimes somply cleaning the connector itself can cure the problem but you may consider replacing the sensor anyway for safe measure, they should be 17 bucks or so, and may be listed as a nissan part(as was alleyboy's) somebody around here should have a part number for the ecu thermo sensor

if you notice there are an inner and outer doj, one is more tapered than the other. but doj and all theinternals will swap between axles, the only difference between ea81 and ea81 axles is th elength of the axle shaft itself and as far as rear trailing arms go, all ea81(4wd's) are the same you can also fit an ea82 lower control arm if you ream out the mounting hole on the frame and use the larger ea82 bolt, the 3 bolts on the side fit s the same, ea82's have bigger drum brakes(or disc)

congrats on your new score! whats your plans with it? keep it away from the carbola, cause someone may JUNK it! (or hold the key ransom)

the fuel pump and ign relays are on a little bracket on the steering column itelf, just above the ecu(ecm) 3 nuts hold it up, one of them may have a ground wire(either there or on the bolt for the column itself the distributor sends a signalt to the ecu for the fuel pump to operate while its spinning. there are also green test mode clips under the dash, plug them in, and the fuel pump should cycle on and off when the key is in RUN pos.

on the 4wd conversion sedan we used a drill and a chisel to separate the stock mounts from the 88 wagon, and welded them to the sedan and used self tapping screws. about burned the car to the ground, should have removed the carpet!! needless to say all the McD trash didnt help matters

lookin at jims there looks to be 2 roll puns thru the side. on my 4wd pushbutton 5spd there was a pin, i had to use an assortment of nails and screws to punch it out, for lack of the proper punch

it works the the same both ways, we got the rx pump in the loyale, and an spfi pump in the turbo wago

here is some material to refer to if you run into problems http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

do you plan to do the work your self, or have it serviced by a professional?

the haynes manual will have a procedure for checking the tps, such as a closed throttle voltage, a WOT voltage, and resistences between. not so much a calibration but a check to see if its within spec

usually anyone who buys a new subaru has always had a subaru. there are a lot of people who are fanatical about subarus, but they dont know about eachother. i will bet you a subscription that if you go to walmart or wherever and see someone getting in/out their soob, they will be like "yeah, i love these things, i used to have brat and i loved it" or "this is my 5th one" something similar. so if some peole dont have an older soob at the moment, im sure they remember them well! look around this forum and that will give you plenty of representation for what SHOULD be in a subaru magazine

the mounting holes for the TPS are slotted, you can loosen the screws and move the tps one way or the other. on ours it semed to help. sometimes it will dook out, but not as bad. its not hard to replace, but you may want to take off the alternator an get a short screwdriver to access it. the turbo itself has no electricals or whatever, it's driven by exhaust pressure, the turbo would not send a code to the ECU you can search for code reading, its posted all over the place, somewhere there is a chart that explains the codes.

i disconnected the fuel line to my tank, nothing comes out, but if i knock on the tank it seems there may be some left. but i havent drained it at all at the plug

the 4wd tank has a smaller capacity than the 2wd, buint theindentation for the differential. the sender can be removed rom the back of the tank. also ea81's have a drain plug in the tank on the way back from montana, my car took on average 10-11 gal of gas, the gauge was screwy, we ran out of gas 3 times before we realized the gauge was screwy(2wd car, 4wd conv, gas tank) maybe it had to do with therate we used fuel. at home around town the gauge went all the way down before running out of gas

sorry, dont hve a camera for this one, you'll see it on the movie being made. its now on jims wagon. but here is the first one i built, a bit crude, but it worked! http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon4/cwdata/driveshaft.html

maybe the throttle position sensor. is it turbo? sometimes mine will dook out just to hit all at once when i hit the gas. was a bad TPS

i bet they are the ones that go UNDER the faceplate for the heater controls, under the bottom edge

now i have the driveshaft installed using my home-made carrier mount leftover from trashagon 5, add diff oil, connect speedo cable i got reverse lights working on both wagons, i was able to use the fwd wiring with the dual range in the dl. on the GL i used the dual range wiring for the reverse, but cutt off the other connectors as we may use them for an indicator light for the 4wd in the DL i got the xt seats swapped into rhe DL. i used the tracks off some gl-10 seats to preserve the height adjastable. on the driver seat, i had to bend the slider locking tabs out a little, as the gl-10 mechanism interferes slightly with teh xt's height ajustable. the cable that connects toe two had to be re-bent to take out a few millimeters of slack. on the paseenger seat, the gl-10 tracks are shorer, so i had to drill holes and use nuts with the screws, and on the inside track i had to use a nut to space the difference betwee the track and the base of the seat, using a 12mm bolt and a nut. tomorrow im going to find some anchors to swap the roof rack outer rails to the dl, if i cant find them then i wull use short bolts and locknuts like we used on the sedan and the RX. also i will swap out the back seats, didnt do it today because i didnt get that far, but i got an aftermarket tape deck instaled in the DL. i also installed athe missing bolt on the diff hanger and another bolt in the engine crossmember(had to drill the old one out) saturday we will be swapping another compressor into the turbo wagon, we have an xt for a parts source and are considering changing it all to the flat belt system. also we will change the bulbs in the instrument cluster that butned out from a bad alternator, and swap in a better radiator from the XT

yo, since you are considering a (5spd)dual range, you can go with an ea82 motor, its rev happiness goed hand in hand with the 5spd, and in my opinion, ea82's are better with the 5spd than the ea81. some will tell you that 4spd dual range is better, its suitable for the ea81. just my opinion, i had both ea82 motor and 5spd d/r in an 82 wagon, complete with ea82 suspension as well. peep my website in the sig.

its not the best picture, but here is my cd installation. the cd player is flush with the console, but hte console sits about a half inch out forward. there is also a CB in the console also. i had to disassemble the console to get it all mounted, the cd is fixed rather well, so if you wanted to break in my car and steal my cd, you will have to take the whole console if you want to make a quick getaway! i accidentally knocked out the knockout that would be the power mirror, but i put a big sticker over that to disguise it.

if you decide yo go with a junkyard driveshaft, all you will need is the rear half from the carrier back. the rear half is the same length for any model, auto and manual.

being an injected system it wouldnt mind smooth passages vs a carb head. if you look down the intake port you will see some high spots that can be blended down. remove the valves and get them from there too, blend in around the valve guides. dont worry about the cracks between the valves, they may extend down to the valve guides themselves, but that is normal. use the snake atatchment for the dremel so the bulk of the tool itself doesnt get in the way. i used the "roto-zip" style bit to machine away the bulk, and then the cone stones to smooth it out, and sanding drums to finish up. my application was mpfi turbo, and so far our heads on carb block have seen WELL over 10,000 miles in the past monts since feb 04, and nwvwr had any problems look around on this page and you will see the ported heads http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/87rx001.html

there are a lot of "unconventional" modifications around this board, i.e: withthere being no aftermarket for most of the ea series, it could have a lot of "car craft style" do it yourself lo-budget articles. some examples would be the 5spd conversions and turbo motors using carb short blocks, and ea82 motors in ea81 bodies, etc. a lot of the mods such as the 5spd conversions have been "standardized" and would make for goot tech-write ups or how-tos in the magazine there is a lot of thechnology around here that has been pioneered by us board members, there needs to be a magazine that focuses on something other than late model big budget type stuff