MilesFox

jury trial set for oct 17, 2004. dammit i will be another year older. i personally think the courts will f* up with my multiple cases. wouldnt be surprised if next year rolls around before i see the judge, or my lawyer for that matter. see you in fort wayne

another day, more work done: now BOTH suspensions have been successfully swapped, i swapped them as an entire unit. the 4wd suspensions in the DL brought the back end up a few inches to match the height of the front suspension. i had to drill some holes in the back and use some bolts to mount the diff hanger. its all mounted and drilled out, but i lost one of the bolts. so there are 3 there now. the holes meet even with the plastic trim around the inside wheel wells, and the carpet fits over the heads nicely. i swapped the dual range center console to the dl as well. the seats are out so i can drill holes for trashwagon's carrie mount, i will do that first thing in the morning. once mounted, i will go thru the motions of swapping the seat tracks to the XT seats, and will swap rear split seats from the gl to the DL. we may swap the roof rack from the gl to the dl, the outer tracks, and if so, i will swap theheadliner and map lites as well. this will complete the DL. the GL needs another brake bleed as the pedal is a little spongey, i will start with the master cylinder this time

try the one man bleeder, you may have to do it a few times. dont feel bad, i just bled 2 soobs today, and one is stilla bit spongey. it can be tricky sometimes, i will have to bleed them again, although the braking system is a known good one and i have sucessfully bled them before(i had to bleed because of a suspension swap this time) the other car is fine doing the same procedure. one was drum, the other was disc. the drum brake is the one that is soft at this point. i started with the passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, and passenger front, in that order. i didnt bleed the MC, but i will do that fist on my next attempt with the drum brake. but on both these cars i had all 4 brake lines disconnected at one point during the suspension swaps

ok as you may have read i am swapping 4wd 5spd d/r into fwd, and vise versa. the plug ins are different on each car/tranny. would nayone have a schematic so i can either splice the connectors to the other trannies, or wie them up mysel to a switch. a schematic will do nicely

josh (1abaja) is gonna do the same thing, put an ej22 in his 93 1.8 impreza. he called ccrinc and they said the physical structure of the motor is the same, only the bore is different, and all the ecu and wiring connectors work the same i dont think he would have dropped over 200 bucks on gaskets and seals and another 250 for the motor if it wouldnt work. go for it. i will be the one putting josh's togehter myself, so we're in the same boat

well, Tom, i would be happy to come over for a little and fix up some soobs. i'm always availabl, just let me know if you could ever. sorry we havent gotten together in a while. maybe i can talk danny into going on a weekend sometime, my license is suspended or otherwise i would drop by so often and see whats up alleyboy has me lined up here around the 4th, i'm bailing out of the carbola and i will take the sedan to my mom's, and take the RX with me to fort wayne and find work there as i stay with zanny dook.

NAPA has lengths of seel line from 6 inches to 3 feet. my turbo wagon had a replacement line, and the other one leaked. i fixed that, and then the fuel line leaked. but if you do the process of elimintation and fix it all, you wont have to wory about it till MANY years later swing by jim's and i'll have a look. i can fix it for you for CHEAP. i'll be here at jims thru the week

well if they over-engineered it the first time, then that is all they had to do to have a similar desighn through 20 years. i think subarus are very well engineered, but not overly complicated. but i will tell you the truth, im scared to take a tranny apart!

if th4 brakes wont hold pressure and you are SURE you bled them right, suspect the master cylinder. like if you pump the brakes and it holds, just to not hold the next time and you nhave to pump them again. bleeding soob brakes can be tricky, if the pedal still feels smongy after multiple bleeds may i suggest the "one man bleder kit" you can watch the air bubbles come out of the tube and into the bottle, and watch the fluid get clear as you run new through

everything we find around herre is mostly lt blue with blue interior. sometimes we will get lucky and find a whiter or grey soob, but its always the same blue interior.

on my turbo wagon when i had the arb motor, i used a toggle switch for the carb's pump. then i put in the turbo motor, and ran the turbo pump to the stock wiring. it worked enough to get the car running, but by the time it was ready to drive, it quit working, so i just wired it to my existing toggle. on the rx, with trashwagon's carb, i just run it off the + coil terminal. i dont have a relay, but the + coil or anythig that comes on with the key on the fuse box would be ideal(my coil connection used an alligator lip, so if i have problems i can o the battery if i chose)

yeah, the idiot lights will glow as the regulator goes out. i would doubt the egr. replace the alt and then go from there, see if the egr light stays on

sure beats being under the car thru the morning thats for sure. i figure the more time i take on this project the longer i can stay out of trouble in butler. i needed a break from the butler scene anyway. nice change of pace for me, doing the same thing, just somewhere else, not so high-profile over here.

both cars now run and move under their own power. the GL is now all bolted down in the font, shifter hooked up, parking brake hooked up i ended up swapping the clutch cable and pedal itself between the 2. as far as the carpets go, jim is not worried about that, so i wont be doing that. a solution would be to find another console piece and use the boot and plate from a pushbutton 5spd. only a few plastics need to be swapped now, we wrapped it up about 10:00 ohio time. tomorrow i will put both cars rear in the air, and swap the whole rear suspension as an assembly. i figure about 3 hours of continuous work, maybe 2 hours. at least i can take my time all week vs doing a headgasket job and new seals whle swapping a tranny and having it running all on one day on a weekend like i have done before.

start with a better exhaust. you can only draw in as much air as you can move out the tail i use a stock y pip with a 2 1/4 inch cherry bomb immediately after, and 3 inch pipe after that. the ypipe will get my scavenging, the bomb will get my backpressure and exhaust pulse, and the 3 inch pip elets it all flow out. remove the ductwork that connects the airbox to the inner fender. take the box off completely and put one of those autozone holley triangle filter assemblies wait till you blow a head gasket and poke the heads out with a dremel as you fix the head gasket

i was here about a montha go performing a swap of 4wd spfi dual range into a dl fwd 5spd wagon, and vice versa. here is where i left off -both engine/tranny/crossmember assemblies have been swapped between both cars. the struts and kbnuckles are swapped, the dl is tightened up, the gl wagon sits loosely threaded together. this saved me from having to drop the y pipe and unbolting the bellhousings- ok, here i am to pick up from where i left off. the DL motor was mostly put together. i finished conneting the heater hose, and swapped battery cables form the tx turbo. i got it to start and it ran hoiribbly, backfiring and kicking back and stalling. swapped the MAF with a good one and same results. turns out the #2 and #4 plug wires were on reversely. so now it runs like a charm, ran it ti OT and topped off the coolant. with the d/r trans in the fwd 5spd body, there is no mount for the carrier bearing. of course i knew this from the fwd3at to 4wd 5spd conversion sedan. i brought with me my carrier mount that i fabricated for the trashwagon. the dl has no center console, and the shifter boot meets the carpet. i had to remove the boot retainer to get the d/r levers thru the hole and secured. all the d/r console will fit, but all the dl stuff has to go back into the other wagon. so i am going to have to swap carpets so the other wagon doesnt have a big gaping hole in the carpet where the center console wont be. so far the DL has the shifter mount and parking brake cables hooked up. the clutch cables are a bit different, as the fwd 5spd cable mount is on the left of the trans, and the d/r is in the middle. right now one cable is too long, and the other is too short. i may drop the steering columns and change the whle pedal boxes, since the steering wheel is upside down from the frame swap. if i'm feeling lazy i will attempt to swap the cables themselves, but i still have to drop the steering columns i plan on having all the font ends of both cars put together, running and driving. then i will park them rump roast out in the garage and swap the entire rear suspension assemblies. the gl wagon right now has the 4wd parts still on, with xt swaybar,trailing arms, and rear disc brakes, and rebuilt axles. it will be less work to remove 8 bolts rather than swap the trailing arms themselves, as i will need the tube assembly anyway for the diff mount. 2 pennies and a vise grip will pinch off the fuel lines since the rubber line runs to a steel line that is fixed to the tube frame. im kind of stuck at this moment, as i cant find the alt/ac assembly for the GL, so i cant do much with getting it running, and the DL is so loaded down with parts that i cant fold the seats up to remove the carpet. i guell i will work on the clitch cables so i can move the DL, and then remove the driveshat on the GL so we can move it around. once i get done with boththese cars in a running and driving state, then i'll bring the turbo xt in and take it apart

never got around to the sedan, it and the rest of trashwagon will hgave to sit till i return from jim's trash3dor is now 100% complete, other than the proposed addition of tweeters, rear anus lights, and the rest of my stereo hookups. one of my amps took a dimp, after an exaspirating experience mounting it to the ceiling. see you at jim's

maybe the ign fuse was blown? not to argue, but it worked on my 87 gl-10 mpfi turbo, and my 83 wagon with ea82 motor from an 86. never tried it on spfi though. try another soob and i bet a dollar i dont have that it will work!what i myself would do is try the jumper wire trick, and if that didnt work, then tear the steering column apart.

shoot foam in all the crevices, put rudders for front tires, put a propeller on the driveshaft and 4wd. fill up the gas tank for more flotation and that will sure get you 90 miles down the way!we all know about the sea foam treatment, but not literally:grin:

corky, dont forget ea81t sigle port (injectors in head) vs ea82t dual port(injectors in manifold) . you could possibly swap the ea82 wiring harness, throttle body to the ea81 manifold, and plug it in to the existing injectors(are the same), using the existing fuel rail. i believe shadow should know something about the cross-compatability with these 2 engines. you should also get away with using the existing ea82 ps/alt/ace components on the ea81t block

tell the boss a broken belt means bent valves. its subaru heresy, but he wont know better. but its well known around here that its impossible to bend valves in an ea82 motor, non interference

pop the distributor cap and crank the motor, and see if it spins. easy way to tell if the belt's broken

i had the opposite idea, to use an ea82 in an ea81t. what year? if the xt is an 86, i think it would be a close match component wise, if not all plug and play. but the 85-86 mpfi turbo is pretty much the same thing as ea81 mpfi turbo, from what i gather but i have put ea81 in ea82 body using ea82 components, so that is where my expertise may help you the most

looks like a departure from cuba

Blasphemy!