MilesFox

cash on the table, your offer, take whole car. sold

your best bet is to keep it to swap all the goodies to a lesser but nicer soob. being in iowa im sure you can find someone who may be interested in parts from it, especially the 4wd

pretty much straight forward. 4wd to 4wd. try a 2wd to 4wd, more stuff! the pedal box and clutch cable will come out as a unit you need a DRIVESHAFT, any 5spd will fit, actually its only the front half thats different (5spd is longer)

broken timing belt. pop the distributor cap and watch to see if the rotor turns. when cranking. if not, its broke. the coil is goos f it has power, just the wire to the cap(coil wire) doesnt spark because the dist is not turning. here is some reading. not hard to fix yourself. take the motor oout if you have a crane. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

what about unplugging it? you could maybe make a T to it, if its not a flow-thru type device. i dont understand what it does anyway. it probably sends a signal to the ecu that the ecu doesnt factor into equasion.

the gears in a 5spd are closer together, thats what u want for rallyin'. 4spds they say are better for mud type stuff with wheelspin. but what you want is 5spd for topping out, 4th and 5th are real close, keep it in the same rpm range between shifts,

will trade with puegots. hey im doing some floor work and making cash. here by the end of the week i will have from none to most of the money i need for my license. see you on the road thereafter!

im in columbus now. maybe i can look at it? the problem is commonly the o-rings in the air lines, sometimes a wiggle wil make it seal, if its an intermittent problem. i know of 3 legacys at the junk (u wrench) if you wanted to do the conversion. its fast and easy if you know what to do

i made an adapter out of 30 dollars of plate aluminum, a drill, and a tap. 40 bucks total. i aborted the project, but i learned something. by now it has been attemterd enough that there is a "standard" procedure for building one. its a close match for the bellhousing, the bottom studs will line, input shaft will line. top bolts need holes made. you will use an ea81 or ea82 flywheel depending on your tranny. the adapter will be 12mm thick to make up the difference in the engiones bellhousign depth. use clutch pak/flywheel and starter from the tranny you may use this is what i can tell you from attempthing one, and reading other's attempts/successes. mated and installed, never ran

here is what i can tell you, red with yellow stripe is off the headlights, red with greeen are inst, int, tail/park lights. white or white with black stripe is hot off the alt(batt) black ground. what color wires are melted together, which fuse number or what fuses have melted wires

hey, i was the only one in my area, but look what im doing now.

ok, if the horn doesnt work to begin with, i wonder if its grounding out. the horn itself grounds at the switch, so the other side would be hot. have you removed the horns? check all its wiring, where were the melted wires/sections LOCATED?

i would bet it has a lsd, but the guy explaining it didnt understand. so he meand diff lock, but it must have lsd if he mentioned it. score for rarity. i say its a good deal

soobs have a short throw crank, some (dont quote me exactly) a 63mm stroke and a 92mm bore. leverage in action. the subaru motor is happiest around 3500 rpms, its the easiest load for the motor, it may seem a high rpm, but the motor makes less effort to cruise at a higher rpm than a lower rpm. otherwise the motor would be lugging it too much to pull an automatic. but a subaru motor really shines with a 5spd, where it can make the best of its power curve.

it would throw a code because it senses an inactivity, but that may not have to do with general performance, but the computer knows whats up. just the ecu ability to sense it, not so much for its function, i would say.

the volt meter reading(dial )was no diffeent with the car on or off, at the battery posts

the inner DOJ is rebuildable, but the outer cv end is not. the double offset joint is like a cv joint, but it allows in and out motion like taking the flex of suspension, rather than having turning radius like the cv joint. think of the doj like a slip yoke

thats what im saying, the filter thinks the word **** is in as itself within the spelling of the name matsu****a.

http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art wastegate duty solenoid. that must be the deal not connected, as i described my last post. it never made a difference with me. you DO have a boost control valve, so thats more likely your boost spike i would think

keepin it real. they need more people that knows stuff in the old gen forum no intent on the word filter, but that is how you spell matsu****a

hazard, horn and clock are on the same fuse. what caused a meltdown?

ok, if you are using the ea82 rack, here is your list ea81 control arms ea82 radius rods chopped and lengthened i am assuming ea82 struts, that is what i recommend. but that may bring you to use the ea81 axle. maybe go with the ea82 lower control arm ea82 inner outer tierods on ea81 power rack, but if ea82 rack swaps, youre good the crossmember for the ea81 maybe narrower than the ea82 body, such as is so with gen 1 and gen 2 crossmembers thinking of this, explore these possibilities: putting ea82 crossmembers on the wrong side, to get clearance. chop and move swaybar mounts to front, or use ea82 swaybar(or both)

i dont know if this is what you meant, but you said water pump. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

the adjustable struts have notches similar to that of atv and motorcycle rear shox

on an 88, there are vac. lines from the turbo to 2 vac switches near left strut tower. you can bypass these switches like how it appears stock on 85-86 mpfi turbo(vane style MAF) just run the wastegate to the turbo outlet and that will work properly for the wastegate(or boost control)