MilesFox

i just signed up. i star to go there so often. i see some usmb gus there somewhat. nasioc needs a little miles fox

im not in butler. its that simple. needed to get out long time ago!

a carrier bearing mount can be built rather simply with a welder, some steel and a hacksaw, drill i built one in a matter of minutes from steel laying around, built it around the driveshaft and the car. it was built around an ea81, but it also worked in an ea82. much cheaper than a driveshaft, if you have the resources to build one after reading all this again, you may be out of luck on the doj swap to the ea81 axle, unless the ea81T axle has a larger diameter DOJ. if that proves to be true, then you can use some 25 spline doj from a ny full time or 5spd turbo ea82 axle if not, you can modify the front crossmember to use an ea82 lower control arm and axle. then you can use the right axle for the tranny(turbo 5spd)

yep you got it. the you can chop off some ends of some other radius rods, and weld them to the existing. i think it will space out one hole. just need the flat part, bolt it on, and then weld i think the hole on the ea81 will be bigger than the ea82 ball joint. it will still work, but may not draw tight, maybe some kind of sleeve will help that. or weld some in and drill out to reduce the hole and make it tight.

there are some bolts in the water jacket on one side, and towards the rear of the case outside for the other side. bolts behind the oil pan too, and i think one or 2 behind the flywheel, not sure

85 and 86 4wd ea82's should have rear adjustable coils

the diff lock works with vacuum pressure from the RUNNING engine. it feeds from the vac reservoior on the left firewall. but you should hear the relay click if you hit the switch. if the car was running or had vac you would hear some air. although you may hear the mechanism operating, the diff lock itself wont engage without vac pressure, or it may need to be spinning(driving) to engace once the mechanism is tripped pop off the little rubber plug under the pitch bar to view the timing marks. there will also be a separate 3 marks close together, those are for the cam timing, they represent the pistons are at the center of their stroke

may i mention the dimmer is for the DIGITAL display, if that may have a difference. its only an issue with the headlights on i need to re-buff my multi-meter skills, took auto electric at ivy tech. john(alleyboy) has some FSM material for me to use, i will be allright with proper schematics, i like the fsm has the plugs and clips labelled for ease of troubleshooting! as long as i have good reference material we can get this thing figured out

im busy all month. the pigz in butler are scratching their heads

exhaust! 2 inch off the stock y pipe. mine has 2 1/4 cherry bomb off the y-pipe, and 3 inch after that. MEAN!

xp is still a novelty to me, never installed it, im still old-school with 98

there you go! im all over the front page. time to go to bed

a longer 10mm wrench. makes it MUCH easier. 7/8 wrench to hold the shaft i personally would not want to take all the fan, pulley, and dipstick, outer covers off to get the inner cover off(to get going again) . the time it takes to do all that i would be done. just my preference, anyway. i would play with timing belt covers if i was bored, or if it was someone elses car and they wanted keep them on. i dont mind doing so if the motor is out and apart

i would suggest the inner DOJ of the axle. usually it acts up under deceleration. can you feel the noise through the steering wheel?

dont mind answering newbie posts. sometimes im the first to answer, or the only one to answer. i get thanx in the email, at least to them i know what im saying, which i do anyway. thier first impression of the board is Miles Fox!

cant you just use the doj from an ea82 turbo axle, on an ea81 4wd axle? what's about the legacy doj?

that first picture must be some circulation photo for the background, its the same picture here on this computer background, minus the subaru, and e-machines lettering standing atop the hill

the car that was towing the trailer just saw its way out on the back of the same trailer. goodbye, trashwagon 5

some farmer's field, and the yard around the carbola. only since ther is no such thing as a rally scene around here, no automotive scene except for Dean Kruse and his record setting auctions, the Auburn-Cord-duesenberg festival

drove the RX all winter then to west virginia and ohio and west and back missing the same bolt(either fell out somewhere since or was never installed), all along, all this time, didnt notice it till i swapped another suspension to the rx a few weeks ago! didnt act up any though

yeah, replacing the dimmer worked for a moment, then quit again. i wonder if the dimmer burnt up. no red lights glowing. i suggest pulling the dashboard, use that an excuse to chang et he AC core, and comb over the wiring harness for melting the wagon has the inboard alternator, the smaller type, the other types are too big to let the belt tighten up could the voltage to the flat terminals on the alt cause it to run in full amperage? it does make a little noise, could be a bad bushing, ANOTHER bad alt but the dash dimmer burned out again, so its gonna be an arguement to is it the alternator burning it out, or something else. only a known good alt will prove otherwise

the crossmember/lower control would be the only thing modded, the ea82 radius rods mounts will work, but you may have to lengthen the rods themselves i would vote for option 2, this would be the OPPOSITE of trashwagon, you would have to lengthen the radius rods. if yo are handy at frabrication enough to do so you could *possibly* adapt the ea82 swaybar mounts. that or make mounts for an ea81 swaybar. this option would be ideal for an existing lift kit. if you are handy at fabrication to build your own lift with offset, then i would vote option 3. less overall fabrication, and your discretion to how things line up! if you offset an ea82 crossmember using the ea82 lower control arm, the ball joint hole will have to be enlarged. ea81 knuckles are too big for ea81 tierods, but you can swap inner/outer tierods with ea81/ea81 if they are BOTH power steering (mine was manual rack, lengthened ea81[was ea82 originally] tierod)

you live in washington. soobs fall out of the sky. someone would probably GIVE you a motor. spfi is dime a dozen. dont mind about 50 bucks in seals and timing belts on a used motor, it will be good to go forever! ones with broken timing belts(from a junkyard) are your best bets since you know it wont be a bad head gasket or anything major

take all the good parts and pout them on the good car. take all the leftover parts and put them on the rusty car. drive both cars. or sell the rusty one! i could do it in 2-3 days(ENTIRE motor/tranny/suspension/subframe/interior swap). ask ol' jim wood pretty much if you have 2 complete cars, then you have EVERYTHING to do it besides a drill bit and a few bolts. jim went from 2 running cars to 2 running cars, each car is in the other's body!

if thats the case, might as well start with an ea81T body(with, with/o motor) but if that's the case, might as well go with an ea82T my vote is the whole ea82 motor, might as well, less work, and you can have a whole motor for as much as all the stuff separate. this would be reasonable if you havent started yet already. timing belts are not that bad(to replace)