MilesFox

over here to alleyboys, only one up. this is what i like to do all day anyway, get out of butler. the board never gets old!

if we could pretend the car never came with covers, you could have fixed it in 20m minutes! clip on belt covers would defeat their own purpose if we couldnt make a quick disconnect crank pulley and dipstick, clutch fan. those are the hassles in my experience i fixed a timing belt off the side of the road(in town, took all afternoon) about 4 hours. not too fun. open belts on the next car, broke one, fixed it in 45 min in the dark with a flaslight, 75 miles from home next time in the rx, open belts, fixed it in the time it took for danny to take his dads car home and come back with the truck(in town, 20 min) all the broken belts withthe open application was from the use of existing/used belts. THOUSANDS of miles , 2 trips west and back, no poroblem. baja'n no problems. no excess wear, oil leaks stay off the belts! the whole idea that i am preaching is over the road troubles, quick repair time, get going before the state patrol finds you!

i had a similar idea with trashwagon 5, it had the single piece center console that came to the parking brake acess, i had it somewhat chopped up for a cd player. i had a broken ea82 bottom console that i was able to stuffon the inside, but i squeezed it too narrow for the cover plate. put a piece of carpet where the boot wasn't what i needed was the 2-piece unit, just the top(stereo0 and i could have mounted an ea82 lower console without much difficulty(console and plate, 2 screws an e-brake adjust cover) nice to see a completed example:)

well, hell, im about the only one on this time. havent been on for a week, just going down the list. all i have been doing is working on soobs all the past few weeks

adjust clutch first, how you like it. then adjust hill holder figure how far you keep your foot off the ground, i keep my heel on the floor and clutch with my toe, clutch engages almost immediately off the floor. dont like to hover my leg, clutch to the floor for me you dont want to clutch so high that it over extends the pressure plate and bearing. when relaxrd, i leave about a mm of slack, lock the nut. that is al you need. from there you can adjust the hill holder, find a hill to park on on either adjustments you only want to make a few turns each try till you get it where you want it

somewhare along the line subaru couldnt beat the truck tariff, maybe 85 or so, thus they quit importing them here and they went away from the US in 87

what tom said, compression and leak-down tests, try to rule out the head gaskets first let it run to OT, check coolant, make sure the air is out. then you can check to see if u have bubbles, if the coolant wants to boil over could be HG, but i would doubt a new installation. also check for coolant or steam in oil,(milkshake on dipstick, oil fill cap, pcv hose fittings on cam cover) or oil in coolant what is more likely is a cracked exhaust port in the head, leaking water there. that will get you smoke with no side effect but coolant loss. block seal should fix that(fixed a bad HG for me), napa brand works FOLLOW DIRECTIONS PRECISELY you can try that, and if that dont fix it, then we can rule out the HG and cracked head(confirm with compression test) drive it around, watch the temp, process of elimintation

i bet the trogdor fit has to do with power belts, and a more similarity around that with the lotale anmd the xt floors based on the overhead belt structure. i can imagine what trogdor nmeas, if both having auto belts, and the difference in the loy-a floor and the xt, one rail protruding slihtly farther past ithe mounting hole, hence the longer bolt the ones i used in wagons, mine and jim's, mine from an xt6 (88? tom?) and jim's from an 86 on both i used GL-10 rails to swap the tracks, to preserve the height adjustments(gl seats would have no atatchment in back the driver rails were a direct swap, but the slide lever interferes withteh xt adjustment, so the locking tabs have to be bent out, the cable has to be re-bent to take a little slack out. the passenger seats have to get the rear holes drilled, a bolt and nuton each, and one side needs a spacer(lug nut works). any seat rail will work for the passenger, but you will lose the 2-door slide forward function from the rear foot lever. but i am certainly assume rx seat rails will work, it has to. my application from the wagon, the seats swapped into the rx the same fit

put an amp up there too! roof of boom worthy, i like

i got some 100 watt baja lights under the bumper, but that means anti-baja, a good dip will tear them off and ruin them(broke a band already) we put a roof rack on the rx, and the sedan has one with lights mounted to it, makes it modular and removable/swappable that way.

probably squeezed some air out of it putting it on, has a slight vacuum in it, sucking in a ridge. not to worry about, more of an appearance thing

same goes for the timing info, some years may call for a different settign for the same setup 25 deg tdc for earlier turbos and 20 deg for later turbo and all spfi

dont you just love a leaky gas tank:D anyway that's waht i would do what tim said. indiana requires proof of insurance before registering. and a license before driving:brow: but you can own a title regardless. anyway, title 15 bucks, plates 29 bucks, insurance 90 bucks a month. a year ago my age was high risk, 135 bucks a month i sust keep a policy number on my reg, and if i didnt have ins. when i registered it, at least the policy number on the reg. will assume so. that's what i did to get a plate on the RX to move it to michigan and park it. i'll buy insurance when i drive it. my insurance dude will write me up for 6 mo.s. but if i dont pay the 2nd month, it cancells. but i can go in any time and reinstate it, like the policy resets, sort of a month at a time as i need it. ins dude cool like that in indiana, you can transfer a plate from one car to another for 30 days with a dated title or a bill of sale. so long as you "dont have or sold" the previous car. if i were to go to new york and get a car, i could have done that. may not fly in other states, but it would be legal for 30 days in indaian, even with the NY title as long as there was prrof of sale within 30 days(insurance assumed)

a new o-ring is usually ok, especially with a new pump. i tend to use silicone with used o-rings, but that is not always necessary. sometimes the mount for the pipe can bend a little, just push it in as far as it goes, bolt it up, and maybe push down on it a little, as it may have pulled up when pulling the hose. a wiggle usually does it if that's the problem

i am attempting this conversion out of having no replacement ac compressor for jim's turbo wagon. all was going well, swapping from the inboard alt/square compressor to the outboard alt/round compressor. i got so far as to realize the xt pulley for teh power steering wont fit. i tried to dril it out, but the offset is defferent. the pump itself wont fit the other bracket. i found a nonXT round ompressor, but i cant find the stupid idler pulley. i know i gave jim a complete assembly once, but im not gonna tear his house down looking for it while he's at work. other than that, it was suposed to work. so here is what im working with and my options at this point: 1. put it back together like it was, keep bad compressor. there is another square compressor, but the hoses for it are 1 bolt instead of 2 2. find the missing tensioner pulley and keep the v-belt setup 3. take up the intake and swap power steering pump/brackets this realy gets me, hoping to have it done before jim gets home, because i have the opportunity to go with danny to doo some floor maint. work and make some money. i dont want to take the intake up without jim's opinion first. so i may as well sit here and look at 2 torn apart subarus until then jim has all kinds of parts and gasket sets falling out of his rump roast from ebay, but no dual port intakes that i saw. maybe if i'm lucky the gaskets will stay with the intake or the manifold when i take it up. i have had success using used gaskets on my own cars, even with an broken intake bolt on one side. but this is jims car, he always had GENUINE parts for me to use. otherwise i would, but that's not my call at this point

i was just about to say, since after playing ith jim's turbo wagon, the white clip calebz mentions looks like one to the valve for the air strut. not to say he's wrong, but any pushbutton 5spd 4wd has the same connector for the 4wd mechanism(which is the same mechanism for any with the diff lock) oh yeah, one more thing, any 3-door body drivers window switch will be tha same and work the same, as long as you find the right color you want. passenger switches are the same for any model, but a rear switch may have a longer wire

where did you get the car from? maybe we can trace it back to a usmb member as a previous owner?

after poking around jim's wagon, used a test lead to check for voltage at the sheft lever ligh(auto) it showed i had voltage at both prongs, so a good bulb did no good either. after referring to the haynes manual, it all comes from fuse 12(engine meter) and it was good. being a digi-dash, the int display would disappear with teh headlights off. also if you dim the dimmer past fully on they would be off. well, before i got into tearing the whole works apart i replaced the inst dimmer switch and what do you know, it works! problem solved what did we learn? voltage spiking will burn out the dimmer switch! jim will be pleased when he gets home, and his wife can see how fast she's gong at night!

the ea81 turbo was not available with the 4wd 5spd (not in the US anyway. ) you describe a dual range lever. there were part time dual range (23 spline) and full time dual range (RX) but if its in an ea81 body, which used 23 solined axles, mos likely you have a part time 4wd dual range from a non turbo, which will have a 3.9 gear go find soem sand or loose gravel, engece 4wd and see if she binds up or not

in response to the window switch screw holes you should pretty much expect that. every one i have takenoff the hole were cracked including my 87 RX that has NEVER BEN APART. what ihave found to work best are inch ong wood scews witha fine threat asn a sharp tip, enough to bite into the plastic at the bottom of the holes. just be sure they dont poke thru if you torque them too much!

my opinion, having parts around all day is invaluable. like when i put the spfi sedan together, i used an intake from one, an dist from another, on an already mix and match long block(carb heads on spfi block). i had enough parts, bolts, nuts at my disposal to try them all out and pick what fits best. my advice is if you have a place to keep them, why the hell not. any subaru with a title is worth putting together for me. bonus points if everything to the car is all there.

stock y-pipe, and a 2-1/4 glass pack after the flange, and 3 inch pipe to the tail. i swear by it, sounds quiet till you pull a good rev, and a nice snarl when you let off the gas/shift that will scare ricer's fart cans off! i swear by it. do that, and an accel coil with .045 gap and high ign wires.

chuck the covers and make some nice billet pulleys, maybe with some offset for cam timing.

on the road trip the second time, the RX averaged a 500 rpm higher difference than trashwagon's part time dual range, but it got better fuel economy in danny's loyale, h connected one of those vacuum gauge "gas saver" and as you increase rmp for the same amount of pedal travel, the needle moves up into the good and excellent. if you notice, say at 50-55 mph in 4th gear, there is less pedal effor than trying to keep the same speed in 5th at a lower rpm 3500-4500 rpm is optimum range for the ea82 motor, right smack in the powerband. whenever i go baja'n in the field, the tach is always about 4500 to 5500 rpm all day, and the motor doenst complain one bit!

dont forget the fact that i had NO BRAKES, other than the hand brake! the fact i had ea82 coilovers withthe existign torsion suspension handled the tongue quite well. who knows what would have happened if i DIDn'T let the sheriff around me. anyways that s why i got a truck plate for the other wagon(JF2 vin#) we once rented a dolly and the guys said is this the car i was towing with, as i noticed there was no wiring for the pigtail, and i simply said i was taking the dolly to a truck we were using. well, we used the car. 4th gear most of the time, lo range with no rear axles.