MilesFox

i was just guessing!

take off the skid plate. if the pipe has to come off and out of the car, unbolt the turbo from the cross pipe, let the turbo sit where it is. if anything take the nuts off the motor mounts and the motor up a few inches. we fixed a exhaust gasket and replaced 2 studs, which had to be tapped out to the next size, all with the motor in the car and the pipe on the motor. take a stus out, remove old gasket, slip in new gasket, install new stud. it was more difficult trying to get a box-end wrench on the nut than anything. tokk within an hour to do both sides, one 14mm wrench and one 14mm socket if the studs are good (they stayed in the motor when the nuts come off) then i recommend the first procedure.

trashwagon did the same thing till i replaced the rotor. i thought maybe it was smacking the caliper bracket, thin solid rotor = warpage.

loyale dismissed the dual range, the center console, roof rack and rear speakers. think a DL with a tachometer. aotomatic seat belts are annoying, the tall armrest console gets in the way. unless you find one that has "standard" options as special order 1200-1500 bucks if its not rusty and under 100,000 mi we got one for free, but we had to put a motor in it to drive it home. otherwise it was going to be a $1200 car at the dealer we got it from(VA car with a broken taillight and a rust spot)

and i quote from the loyale manual "towing trailers or any other vehicle with your Subaru is NOT RECOMMENDED (4th gear, 2wd lo range, ea82 rear coilovers, had to pull over to keep the sheriff from tailing me. parking brake aint no joke when its all you got!) DAMMIT i forgot to buy insurance. no more for omni source, them bastards!

myoss feece behind the wheel, that one wasnt so bad, all the plume of iowa dirt took the brunt of the impact. but the next run with me behind the wheel was a lot worse since the first run shaved a portion of the mound away. pushed the bumper up a but, but no worry. well, once we got home and got arrested and baled out and got the car out of impound and installed a driveshaft and rear axles to complete the 4wd conversion, she bit it a lot harder in the pit in st joe, further pushing th e bumper up some more. well, i fixed it with a section of railroad tie bungeed down to tha battery trat and a sledgehammer, straightened her right up. car looked good until i ro-neeced my b-pillar powersliding into trogdors blindly parked wagon's bumper, just to hit a tree shortly thereafter. let me say that there was no alcohol involved in iowa, and now she has donated her goodies to a beefed up 3-door as corky would call it, watered down rx as anyone else would call it, the "TRASH3DOOR" , "T3D", and "fastback 2-door wagon(trashwagon7[superficially]) as i would call it sorry tim, trashwagon 5 has got to go, she has sen her purpose and her day. the story has been told, but the leganus continues! i see trashwagon8 in iowa (trashwagon will skip a number, as trash3door is unoficially trashwagon7, and subiemech has claimed deebo on trashwagon7 moniker himself. can we say carpeted 83 turbo wagon, ea82T and 5spd, and can we say ea82 spfi(or maybe ej22 and ft 5spd) 84 GL-10 sedan with 5lugs(trashwagons modified front suspension) and from 2wd 5spd converted(trashwagon's rump roast end) and dual exhaust? *i got a set of nice chrome bumpers and a taillight!* anyway the car will soon be junk. omni-source cant have her, as they ripped me off out of my aluminum. i think the railroad tracks would be a more respectable demise! (how do you take the vin plate off?) ok, i guess omni-souce will have to do, but not without a bunch of rocks, bricks, and dead batteries!

you could just go with an ea82 motor, my opinion. but it looks like you already have an ea81 to go with. save on the labor costs and take a crack at taking the block apart yourself. some of the bolts will hide in the passages in the deck. have a subaru experienced mechanic put it together for you. an ea82 intake/carb will bolt on the same. but you will have to mount your disty 180 off, firing order 180 from the cap, and flip the mounting tab upside down backwards, to clear the water neck. also, the egr will have to be removed and blocked off so it doesnt interfere with the bellhousing

you could just go with an ea82 motor, my opinion. but it looks like you already have an ea81 to go with. save on the labor costs and take a crack at taking the block apart yourself. some of the bolts will hide in the passages in the deck. have a subaru experienced mechanic put it together for you.

yes it will work. but on loyales, you need the clutch pushed in, but that shouldnt matter. worked for me on the gl-10 turbo. wrecked a trashwagon and it shorted out the ign. turn the key and pops fuses. hotwired the coil and drove it home. ask snotrocket and trogdor. on ea81s if you jump one of the terminals on the pink clip, the car keeps running with the key off. you may be able to turn the "male" part that fits into the ign switch itself with a pair of pliers. i did this in my ea81, bit the cylinder may have been worn. (screwdriver worked in the keyhole once)

maybe the car was stolen? pop the hood. jump the + coil terminal to the battery. that will bring the ign circuit alive(run pos) jump the starter at the little tab on the back(black clip) this way you can start the car with no key and the doors locked (if the hood is open first)

had a DL and if you cranked on it too long(trying to start it after putting it together, wrong timing) it would just click after a few hard cranks. let it cool off and it would work until it got hot again.

you may want to consider a new water pump, or at least take it off and check it out, if the conditions persist after a flush/newer radiator a blown head gasket may blow combustion gasses into the cooling system(if no burning coolant or coolant in the oil) causing it to puke the overflow. napa also has block sealer, follow the directions precisely, but if that fixes the problem by itself, then suspect the head gasket. it will also get you by till you get the parts around to fix it. costs you about 6 bucks

i put ea81 motors into ea82 bodies, using ALL ea82 components. both used the round style inboard compressors. aside from my application using the ea82 water pump, here is what you will do: take off all the ea81 original anciliary devices. the ea82 ac/alt bracket will fit on the holes on the ea81 heads, the 12mm bolt on the top, and one of the 14mm on the front. the alternator and ac will be slightly spaced forward past the crank pulley, but its not that bad of an offset. now, the alternator will sit farther back with the ea82 brqcketry, but an alt with the 2 pulley(non ac equipped ea82) will make up that space(i welded a double pulley for mine. everything will be in line for use of the ea82 power steering pump(use the ea82 lines, run them to the ea81 rack) take a good look at an ea81 turbo, as it uses the ea82 style ps pump, and alt bracketry. that will give you an idea of how it will all fit to the ea81 block this is how it all physically fits to the motor, but i dont know if the ea82 air conditioning lines will match up to an (ac equipped) ea81. mine used ea81 motor with ea82 components in an ea82 body. i would suggest having all the parts at hand for comparison before you make the conversion, but its not impossible at all

OIL FILTERS napa silver 1361 napa gold 21361 wix 51361 fram is a no-no. save them for the ford taurus

let's hear more about the ea82 suspension. how'd you do it for the gen 1?

i plan on putting the sedan together today, i got my o-ring for the replacement cam tower, i would like to have at leasts the motor dropped in and the intake hooked up. but i am waiting on an oil pump seal before i can mount the pump and the timong belts. but the car itself is has been complete, so all i have to do is get it running sunday is clean up day, monday i will move my personal stuff from the apartment to the carbola, and take off to ohio for a week

the rx, TRASH3DOOR (myoss feece invented the name) is now some 90% complete i mounted the 100 watt baja lights and a pair of fog lights under the bumper, all wired up, but i need a fuse. all my wiring is nice and clean, invisible. there is a power terminal near the latch for the top of the rear seat, that is live from the battery via an amp cable, and it runs the cb and map lights. the pre-existing amp switxh now controls the neon light, and it will control the remote wire for the amp that will go on the ceiling. the rca cables run up along the trim for the rear window, and the amp will pwer from the terminal strip the fuel pump is wired to the coil. one of the fog the baja lights goes to a lighted button and a relay. they turn off with key in run position. the fogs are connected to the battery all of my accent lighting runs off the fuse panel and comexs on with the run position the cb antenna is magnetic mount, and it mounts tucked under the rear wing, the wire sneaks under the wing thru its mounting hole, and inside the hatch about halfway, then tucked into the rubber seal. what's left to do so far is get my amp from zanny dook, and connect my sleeper 8"s under the seats. still have to wire up the cd player. carpet the other door, and its blue light i need to find some plywood for the rear and cut a carpet. the motor now runs like a charm, but something leaks colant, either the water pipe or the pump itself. it had a slight dribble last year's road trip but leaks profusely now oh, gotta bleed the brakes yet....................... wouldnt you know that no sooner thn i got the damn thing driving for the first time, it broke down by the tracks, wire came off, then i flooded it and about ran the battery down. so i leave it sit for a moment and OFFICE PLANCK is scoping my car. damn him, i go to intervene and i "will be charged with trespassing on railroad property" whatever oh well, i know of plenty of places to park a car that is tow-truck-proof!

i put trashwagon's motor in the rx, didnt idle good, ran choppy. i pulled some wires and there was no change at the #3 cyl. took the plug out and tried it on the wagon, no problem. i was running bosch platinums, the same ones that took TW% out west and back, and for a lap baja'n. tried an NGK. both seemed good. found out my problem: the wire itself was up against the egr tube off the head, and burned thru, amking intermittent ground. black tape and a re-route and shes all good! almost suspected the bosch, but i like them anyway

dammit that i dont have a drivers license. otherwise i would try to make it. cant be more than 4 hours away. good luck with your motor:)

keep all the little nuts and bolts and screws, stock subaru bits are invaluable if you work on a lot of them. keep small stuff like the heater resistor packs, ol' jim cant get enough of those! i like to keep the rear cargo carpets for hauling dirty stuff, or as replacements for dirty ones

if you do away with the spacer you can compensate by using an ea82 y-pipe to clear the crossmember

myoss feece and i noticed on ein the newly acquired 91 lotale, its in a pouch that snaps to the floorpan just under the pass rear seat. the only thing i could think of subaru having an allen head is the bolts that hold the seat tracks to the seat. but i saw it only in the loyale. i wonder if it has to do with the power seatbelt system? for some kind of adjustment or manual reel

build in the summer, drive in the winter!

one thing i noticed about the ea82 is its a pain in the A to bust one apart with a SLEDGEHAMMER. seriously, i see that it has 3 mains, but its not like some little cap is holding it together, but rather a whole HALF AN ENGINE. i dont think an ea case could be held together with any more blolts! i like the ea82 myself, did the carb block with turbo swap, super reliability, no pinging, pump gas. if i were to build up some mongoliod HP engine, i wouldnt find it too hard to just swap a whole short block if i had reliability issues. does anyone remember the post about the modified combustion chambers? i think that with an spfi block would make an ideal turbo application myself

i will pop the ball joint, thierods, then remove the axle. i will use a punch to knock out the bearing from either side of the knuckle(on the car). it may ba stubborn as the bearing will push the seal out of its way. rotate the knuckle around and do the other side. for installation i will tap them with the axle socket to seat them, install the axle as usual. use new seals because the only bad bearings i have seen had bad seals it takes me no mor ethan 5 min longer than just changing the axle.(per side)