MilesFox

get behind it with a hammer and smack it in an upward motion agianst the mounting tabs, be careful, itsd aluminum, ise a plastic hammer or a rubber mallet. a regular hammer can do if youre not destructive with it. it will pop out after a good whacking, as the o-ring wont let go without force

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/glossary.htm try this again...or go to my website and look under subaru service in the top frame... the turbo and 4wd axles are the same diameter, so yu should be able to swap the doj and the bearing race for your 25 splined i myself have put a 25 spline turbo doj on a 2wd axle, it had exfessive play, but it worked. not recommended as a mod, but it will work as a fix. but i think the 25 spline doj will fit on the 4wd axle, try ity out and let me know. i have always wanted to put a 23 spline turbo doj on a legact axle to use a dual range with 5lugs

one end the hole for the pin is farther back. one end will be slightly tapered, that will be the outer end

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/glossary.html there is the link to the Glossary of Terms on my website, this will cover the axle splne counts and which trannies a dual range will bolt right in place of the pushbutton 5spd. the tranny mounts, clutch/flywheel, and driveshaft al fit the same you will need to swap the axles from the 85 to go with the dual range ALL 5spd non turbo trannies are 235 splines. all TURBOP and FULLTIME 5 spds are 25 spline. all 3spd autos, including turbo, are 23 spline. all full time 4spd autos are 25 splines. all ea81 are 23 splines all rear axles for any ea model are 23 splines the 85 front struts are height adjustable, if you want to swap those, swap the strut/knuckle/brake/axle as one unit. this will save you from having to pop the axles out of theit bearings. do it like this: pop the axle pins out. pop the ball joint and tie rods. undo the rubber brake line from the body end. disconnect the parking brake cable. unbolt the 3 nuts on the strut cap. swap away keep in mind you will have to swap the 3.9 rear diff over with the dual range. you said the gl-10 turbo wagon is an 89, it may have an lsd as standard option, but it will be a 3.7 the shifter4 console plate is the only thing interiorwise that needs swapped. the console itself will accept any console palte. the hole for the shifter will be thge same alsi. the only issue you will have is the wiring for the 4wd display and reverse lights, but you can either splice the wires or go the simple route and make a toggle for the reverse lights(fog lights in the rear!)

changing to 5 lugs will give you better tire and wheel options. you can go with any impreza and legact 14 inch rims and bigger

its best to remove the fender first to get to the door hinge bolys. you will see where its painted to line it back up when you put the door on. any wiring to the door will connect behind the kiclk panel near the floor. it just pops up, and you will see a green, white and pink connectors. the pink will be for power windows, the white one will be for the speaker there are 2 10mm nuts behind the bumper trim to remove the fender

sounds like a plan. i still have all the valve parts and those heads, pick thru them and take what u need. oh yeah, i got the internet at HOME now, so i will try to keep my yahoo messenger on when im online, and the phone lines open when im not on. trogdor! do you plan on staying the night saturday also? we plan on baja'n, at the meet saturday i will put a new axle on zanny dooks sedan, take his used one to replace the broken axle in trashwagon, and use my bad on as the core. so we will have a 4wd trashwagon, the 4wd conversion sedan, to go baja'n with. josh says he will baja the red wagon ur bringin' trashwagon 6 may be down for a lap, but she will have a tendency to get hot. anyway, 3 vehicles for sure to baja. i told all the girls to find a slumber party for t6he weekend to make room at my place. we cqan either camp at the carbola, or crash at the apartment. my place is welcome for showers and ec. but dont mind the bathroom floor may be wet cause the toilet tank leaks. for sleeping arrangement i have my bed that i will give up to a sleeping pair"girlfriends and such), or i have a futon mattress on the floor. i also have the couch, and a carpeted subaru headliner for sleeping arrangement.

get a cell phone or calling card maybe, if u get lost or confused, call my HOUSE (260) 868-5795 let me know what time you guys head out, so i know when to expect you or to be near a phone in the day call the office, as i will be at the carbola all day, (260) 868-5006 josh: (260) 908-1258

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/swapmeet.htm i am going to tell you how to get there like i would go, this way will bring you past alleyboy and jim wood. take i-70 WEST from morgantown area thru columbus ohio. once you make way thru c-bus, take exit 80 to MECHANICSBURG, ohio route 29 north. stay on 29 n to URBANA once in urbana 29 will split off to US 36 WEST. take us 36 w to PIQUA. in piqua is i-75 north, get on that and take it to exit 110, wapakoneta. this will be ohio state rout 29 west again. takw 29 to st mary's. 29 will enter st mary's at a t intersecton, go left. you will pass a wally smidt auto and a gas station. go into the downtown. you will see signs for 66 north, follow that out to the north end of town, you will see signs for columbus ohio, us 33. therte is a shell station near the interchange. find the us 33 WEST, towards fort wayne, in. it will be 4 lanes for a little, and then it splits off. if you miss it, you will be on 29 to celina. if you cant find the us 33 interchange, you can just stay on 29 thru town on to celina, just more downtown traffic that way. anyway, take 33 west till you get to us route 127 north. 127 also comes from celina if you went that way. take 127 north to van wert, go all thru town, once you make your wat thru the north end, you will see an interchange for us30 west. the interchange is on by a BP station, bp on the left, the interchange on the right. make sure to pay attention to the signs or you will miss the road. the interchange will do a long sweeping loop to the right to meet westbound traffic. stay on us 30 west to the indiana line. *****if you stay on 127 and dont get on us 30, 127 will take you to us 6, which goes west to butler**** ok, coming from us30 you will cross the indiana line. just before tyhe lign you will see a sign for ohio route 49, after you pass the line be on the lookout for a flashing yellow light, this is indiana state road 101. turn right and take 101 north straight to butler. 101 is about 5 miles past the state line, it will take you thru woodburn, it jogs a little in town so watch the signs after woodburn you will cross us 24 and state road 37. keep going. eventually you will cross a set of railroad tracks by a steel joist plant(nucor/vulcraft) ...(if you turn left there is our baja pit 1/2 mile)....cross the tracks and keep going straight. you will cross state road 8, and after you cross 101 turns into st rd 1. st rd 1 goes all the way to butler 7 miles. once you enter butler you will pass a trailer court, a school under construction, speed zone...there are 2 sets of rr tracks. immediately across the 2nd rr you will see the carbola to the left, either go in thru the city maintenence lane, or on depot st immediately thereafter. if you not turn left to go to the carbola, go straight thru the stoplight, and there is my place on the left corner, far side of the building is my door. i am above the old "maintenance on wheels" off ice, which has newspaper in the window. go in the door, up the stairs, i am the door on the left. if you have a hard time just look for a subaru and chase it down, since we are the only soobs in town. may i siggest having an atlas or at least an ohio map for the ohio portin. i figure 3 hrs to columbus, and about 4 hrs from there. all in all 6 hours can be made according to how you pace yourselves. you sould be able to make 90% at least of the distance from trogdor on one full tank. you could simply take 70 thru dayton, or even to indy, but i highly not recommend that as it will add HOURS to your driving time. the trickiest part will be from sidney to van wert, but it will save you miles and gas. just make sure to pay attenton to signs, as ohio roads like to jog around in small towns, or up and change at intersections. it is possible to trave on 3 different highways going down the same stretch of road if you didnt watch the signs.

it took about 10 minutes to take it off, to realize i packed a rear spare axle with its stub shaft. but it took all day to get an axle hitch hiking to the junkyard. got it all togwther in about 10 minutes after that. but we still made it from wisconsin

you can install a whole 4wd rear end minus the diff and the axles. the rear axles have a doj on both ends, woth roll pins, and are removable from BOTH ends. and besides, you will be set up for a full 4wd conversion option., or you can swap just the disc/trailing arm combo. they bolt the same as any ea81 or ea82 brake system

dont forget the subaru alliance and the swap meet. road trips, trashwagons!

sorry you couldn't make ut joe. maybe another time

any ea81 radiators will work. a lot of the ea81 rad's that i have seen are 2 core, as a lot of the cars has no manual fan. i have seen an ea82 radiator in a brat, but it has an ea 82 motor as well. the trashwagon has an ea82 motor in an 83 body, but it uses the ea81 radiator

deebo on the motor!

what i hear is trogdor is bringing the red wagon for josh, and the t-case will ride with it..

unbolt the bellhounsing. take off the starter and pitch bar. remover the rubber cooling lines from the tranny end. disconnect the speedo cable and electricals. unboly the torque converter bolts, four each 12mm thru the timing window. you can take off the pitch bar mount to use a socket, or just use a box end. i use a prybar top separate the torque converter from the flex plate, so that it stays with the tranny and prevents a mess. get under the car. dranin the ATF. remove the y pipe for access. unbolt the shifter nut from the shifter itself. leave it connected to the tranny end unbolt the tranny crossmember bolts. lower the tranny down with a jack. if you jack up the SIDE of the car iy will give you more room to work.

they can go all the way down to the valve guides if they like to, no big deal. the heads on the RX were like this, and we ported them and have over 10,000 miles on it since the port. you can take a punch and kind of smoosh the crack and close it up a little.

so who all is coming? so far i have 86subaru tomrhere alleyboy trogdor 88xt6joe Tim Hansen snotrocket make a list of all the parts you may bring.

1. loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the plenum. simple pop ut up and towards the front of the car. thereis a hose from the aav valve that goes to the bottom of the plenum, you can simple leave it connected and let the plenum hang out the way. the hose may be brittle and crack, if so, then replace it with 1/2 inch hose. 2. the oil supple comes off the back of the head, around the turbo flange mount, and to the top of the turbo. you can remove it from the turbo itself if u like, i would only remove the line from the HEAD if the motor was OUT. dont lose the copper crush washers. its recommended tou replace the crus washers, but i have re-used them without a problem. i have heard of people drilling holes in pennies to use on brake line applications. 3.the oil RETURN is the fat rubber hose that goes to the back of the head with the tension clamps. replace it with 5/8 silicone hose. 4. my last 83 turbo was both oil and water cooled. the water line comes from what would be the drain plug on the head of a N/A. it comes up from the passenger side head, along the bottom of the valve cover, and up tpward the turbo. it turns into a rubber hose that meets the bottom of the turbo. the return line is the one that runs under the intake plenum. replace those with 1/2 inch hose. since the bottom hose curves around 90 deg, have an extra 2 inches or so of replacement hose(non molded) to allow enough room to bend without kinking. what they said. TOGLE SWITCH!

1. loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the plenum. simple pop ut up and towards the front of the car. thereis a hose from the aav valve that goes to the bottom of the plenum, you can simple leave it connected and let the plenum hang out the way. the hose may be brittle and crack, if so, then replace it with 1/2 inch hose. 2. the oil supple comes off the back of the head, around the turbo flange mount, and to the top of the turbo. you can remove it from the turbo itself if u like, i would only remove the line from the HEAD if the motor was OUT. dont lose the copper crush washers. its recommended tou replace the crus washers, but i have re-used them without a problem. i have heard of people drilling holes in pennies to use on brake line applications. 3.the oil RETURN is the fat rubber hose that goes to the back of the head with the tension clamps. replace it with 5/8 silicone hose. 4. my last 83 turbo was both oil and water cooled. the water line comes from what would be the drain plug on the head of a N/A. it comes up from the passenger side head, along the bottom of the valve cover, and up tpward the turbo. it turns into a rubber hose that meets the bottom of the turbo. the return line is the one that runs under the intake plenum. replace those with 1/2 inch hose. since the bottom hose curves around 90 deg, have an extra 2 inches or so of replacement hose(non molded) to allow enough room to bend without kinking. what they said. TOGLE SWITCH!

tomrhere has an ea82 radiator in his brat, but it has an ea82 motor as well. one way to tell from single row and dual row is to look at the top of the radiator, the single row has an indentation on the front and center, while the dual is straight across. if there is ever a fitment issue with the radiator, the cores themselves are swappable between the bottom and top rail. we had a rad. for the rx and we had to swap the bottom for the rubber mounts and the top for the bolt alignment. the bolts that hold it together have captive nuts molded in the plastic, the plastic around it may break. if so gently pick away the plastic till you can get a wrench on the nut, or wedge it still with a flat screwdriver to turn them free.

spraypaint will look good if you know how to use it. let off the nezzle between passes. you paint will only look as good as the primer coat.. might i suggest dollar can clear coat. stay away from walmart brand as it will fade and oxidize within months. krylon all the way!

there is a skinny hose that comes off the passenger strut tower that goes to the manifold. this controls all the heater and cruise functions. if all your heat comes out of the dash vent only. look for that first. it plugs into a reducer from a fatter hose off the motor. it leads to a canister on the passenger side firewall, and tsmall rubber lineds to plastic ones into the body. check all that too. the problem is most likely NOT the control unit on the instrument cluster this is a fairly common problem in the sense that the hose gets knocked loose or forgot to be re-connected when servicing the car, and its easy to overlook.

someone would give you those parts before you have to go spend all that. try posting WTB in the marketplace forum.