MilesFox

in my opinion, ant decent car with a title should not be parted out, but fixed instead. i myself would buy a car with a bad head gasket, knowing i could fix it. perhaps you should pitch your sell to someone who would be wiulling to fix it themself

po.box 333 Depot st. Butler, IN 46721 ATTN SUBARU ALLIANCE make payable to DONALD CANFIELD if you chose to donate. thats up to you if you wish. i wont ask for any amount, but anything sent will be appreciated i will be coming back thru IOWA, and i am setting up meets there, so that mean im coming thru wyoming and nebraska as well

subarus like to ground thru their switches. you can search for GROUND, strategic adding of more ground wires elliminates electrical gremlins

no, i mean off the side of the throttle body. you can get in with a short screwdriver from the side, from under the fuel rail if you have a gasket you can pull the whole throttle body to replace the TPS, as to have more control with the screwdriver, so you dont strip the screws

the #1 cylinder is on the passenger side front. the distributor turns counter clockwise. firing order is 1324. there is a rubber plug on the bellhousing that can be removed to access the timing marks on the flywheel. line up the rotor to #1 cyl. the timing should be 8 deg. btdc

napa victor series gaskets, the package lists parts as made in japan. a set will run about 100-200 bucks depending on if you are doing the heads or not. you can get the seals fairly cheap for the cam and crank seals, oil pump seal is not too much the napa gaskets are of better quality than the felpro, but felpro is less costly, and they work just as fine

the RX that we have does the same thing, at around 2500 rpm. we had swapped an air meter with a wagon, but that did not help our problem was the throttlel position sensor. there are 2 screws that hold it into position, we turned the sensor so it thinks the throttle is more open, and it cleared it up for the most part try to "tune" it if you can and be on the lookout for a known working part

the hub fits over the spluned shaft of the axle, the rotor bolts to the hub. it is not necessary to remove the brake caliper pads or rotors to take the axles OUT. but, however, i DO take them off to install the axle, you have to remove the 2 17mm bolts in back for the caliper bracket, and then the hub/rotor comes off i like to yap around the knuckle to start the axle. it is POSSIBLE to install the axle with the brake assy. on, but with the PARKING BRAKE engaged to hold it all still BUT, be careful of how you line he axle thru, as if it is not straight, you may booger a spline in the hub

it is possible the start of a bad head gasket can blow COMBUSTION gases into the cooling system, causing the cap to puke out coolant, because the pressures from combustion will exceed the capacity of the radiator cap. is your car puking? try running with the cap off, and see if it runs cooler check the oil for milkshake lookin foam, check under oil fill tube, pcv lines on the valve covers use a compression tester to see if it has consistent readings

an ea81 front crossmember will be slightly too wide to fit the gen 1 body, but could be modded to fit without too much effort if building a lift, yo can use the lift to adapt the width difference same for lifting the back, the lift will have to be designed to fit the body on one side, and the ea81 suspensipon on the other ide MAY I SUGGEST using an ea82 rear suspension, and modding the ea81 front crossmember to use ea82 lower control arms, inner/outer tierod(or custom lengthen ea81's inners) so with that setup, you can use the bigger ea82 brakes, have more travel, and get some positive camber. also, you will be able to use ea82 axles, since they are more readily common for replacement, and with the option of using a82 axles, you can use an full time transmission with 25 spline axles

if you can make it to montana/idaho border area the weekend of march 20-21, the SUBARU ALLIANCE will be there to rescue a trashwagon, all of to be documented on film, if you would like to be a part of that, let me know milesfox@yahoo.com

cool, if you are in that area., get ahold of mt smiths and MSSLGECKO, so we can all meet at once, be more convenient, and you will get a chance to peep the ol' TRASHWAGON pm or email me with the specifics as they come i predict i will be there sunday morning, no lter than sunday eve/mon morning, depending on our stops along the way, and if we decide our stops to be met on the way back instead, we may be there saturday evening well, anyway, that is my estimation of when to be there. we can make a stop in missoula, call everyone, and go from there.....

an xt or rx tranny will install the same, but they both have 25 spline axles stubs, will not fit ea81 axles. BUT, you would get that to work with either custom made axles(expensive), or an ea82 suspension conversion like on traqshwagon 5(if you can weld) i had to make a carrier bearing mount for the driveshaft, i used an ea82 driveshaft for 5spd. any 5spd driveshaft will work for your choice of 5spd tranny

i am kind of thinking that on the way back, since we will be stopping in minnesota and south dakota, that we may deviate the ame route back, but through iowa, illinois, depending on how we stretch our money, we have a full week and a weekend to do all this

any 85-94 will be best as far as being way into them, off road, or to mod with. being that they are the most common-for-cheap soobs, and pretty much any part of any model will interchange but an ea81 would be more like the trashwagon we will be getting, you will see a truly unique soob in the sheet-metal! personally i like the ea81 bodystyle better, but i like the ea82 motor and 5spd, so of course that is how i put my car together my current ride has all the features of an ea82, more modern, more options, but i am up a step with legacy suspension parts and legacy motor (if i get it together) you cant imagine doing the same types of stuff to some cavalier or taurus...

the local radio shack deals in cell phones, i wonder if they would have anything like that. if worst comes to worst, we can be creative wit the mic. somehing like a computer mic or a headphone ear piece, or even a mic salvaged from a tape recorder to be worn on a necklace? next weekend we will be getting the RX prepped for the run, we can add a 12 V power source, connected to the stereo's AMP wire(switched) since the speaker box will be absent. o that way you can set up in back, ride in back, or not have it interfere with the front console as a functional area in driving

oops, forgot to mention... but let it be known that ALL ea82 and EA81 REAR axles are 23 spline.

somewhere i had a pic, if i was at my own computer right now, i could find i.... speaking of cutting the airbox, i made a MAF adapter by cutting the part of the box where it mounted, found some old exhaust pipe, cut it don the side, and expanded it to the diameter of the filter. i welded this to the mount, and therefore had an adapter. i made a little tab to fit on the screw on the back of the turbo plenum its ugly, no entirely sealed(but duct tape will fix!) but now i have the system movked up and mounted, so i can go from there for improvements right now the filter has been apsent ince the turbo motor didnt last 100 miles, had a carb, but i will use it with teh ej22 i am now working on in the same car

some of the later HAYNES manuals will have the air strut diagrams, so far that i have seen but have not read them completely..

you may have accidentally pulled it away from the back of the instrument cluster. any moderate tug can do that, such as it happened once while servicing heater hoses

any 5spd tranny will do, as long as you have allt he right pieces that go with it. non turbo trannies will have a lower final gear (3.9), it will work good for off road or quick start type situations. the turbo gearing will give you better highway economy(3.7) make sure you would have the right gear rear diff for your transmission you will use. 5spd 4wds use a different driveshaft than the AT, but only the carrier bearing (front) half will be different

yeah 20 for later models

the lift prettymuch spaces the subframe from the body. the motor and axles will still be relative to eachother, but the whole assembly farther away from the body. the whole idea is to allow room for bigger tires, which there is where your actual ground clearance will come from some suspension tavel ideas have been pioneered, butthose ae the one-off fab jobs that come from creativity

air suspension can be wierd. we took the battery out to service the front of the motor, and we let it down off the jack, the car was way flatin front when we put the battery back in, the car was going up and down on the front driver side, it would go don when you hit the HIGHT button, but up when off. maybe it was in some sort of calibration mode? i lo0ked it up and it says ther is a height sensor inthe strut, and a valve, ...anyway it quit and is back to normal jim says they will load it down 200 pounds, they unload it and then it has the STINKBUG POSTURE. but it settles, probably when the key comes back on

when we did TROGDOR's auto to 5spd conversion, we used the center tool, but our efforts trying to install the motor moved the clutch disc, so i had to resort to the described procedure to get it to line up