MilesFox

DO NOT PULL THE MOTOR AND TRANS AS ONE UNIT. or you will find that you will be taking it out at a near 90 deg angle, afte you unbolt half the frame pull the motor out, that will access you clutch, and the time it takes to pull the motor will save you time trying to work on the heads with the motor in car with the motor out, you can set it in a 5 gal bucket for a stand, and do the heads and front end DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE CACKS BETWEEN THE VALVES. the cracks between the valves are normal, and expected. the cracks can go down to the VALVE GUIDES, dont worry. as long as the cracks are not splayed open. there is no water or oil passages in this area, only a valve seat may drop out if the cracks are WIDE OPEN heads generally are not warped, i have neverhad problems with warped heads, and have used some QUESTIONABLE heads with NO PROBLEM leave the tranny in the car if you do pull the trans, take the motor out first. the axle pins on the inner end are 3/16" inch dont use 1/4 inch or the punch will get STUCK

its normal for the oil pressure to be rally low below 2500 rpm. it should be around 35-45 at 2500 rpm is considered normal operating, nothing for alarm.. there is an o-ring between the head and the CAM TOWERS, on the mating surface. the cam covers that myoss feece speaks of can generically be referred to as a "valve cover" i have seen a valve cover so bad i thought it was a bad o ring under pressure. the cam/valve covers seal will get brittle, and crack, therefore leaking. i would bet the head gaskets are fine, but it wont hurt to re-do them anyway for safe measure. (i suggest pulling the motor, and doing both sides, complete gasket set if you decide to do so)

good luck finding an adapter to put a carb on the mpfi intake. your best bet is to just thrpw in a carb motor, witha carb, single port intake, as mpfi is dual ports. its only worth it if say you had trouble with mpfi to begin with unless you can be REALLY creative, and put some steep cams and some four-barrel..... here is an example of a modernesque, and shaker style hood scoop/filter for MPFI/turbo

cone filters thru the hood! nuff said...

keep the presure plate bolts loose enought that you can move the clutch disc by hand, but it will stay in position. then mate the motor, and with the starter out, you can tighten the PP bolts in equence after the motor is mated, and before you put on the starter

DEEBO ON A TRASHWAGON, there, i claimed it. if i go to jail, UNDEEBO WHEN I GET OUT. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/homepage/anecdotes/deebo.htm

jims car doesnt have the original hood, but anyway look there for ign timing if its original sorry about posting under the wrong name(logout next time!) i will investigate that myself, dam, where can i get an FSM?

do i smell a twin turbo? you da man, try it out, no one will ever know if its not attempted

the RX hits a "second power curve" at 5000 rpm, you can hear the turbo and all, chopped BOTTOM of the airbox. we just did jims. i makes a nice grown when you crack the throttle open AIR FILTER DEBATE: k&n claims their filter flows as well as paper filters, but the advantage is you can cleqn and re-use it so with the open box, if you are prone to clog the filter quickly, that is where a "permanent" filter will have an advantage(think, motorcycle, k&n started with moto's)

how are the throttle pos sensor, the MAF, and the ecu thermo sensor? the RX has a dead spot in the throttle, we swapped ina nother TPS and it ran way worse, so we put the old one back on. make sure all your components are in good working order. dont junk it right off, i wouldn tmind having a look at i t sometime. steve wants to plan an april meet, see you then!

i had a couch strapped down to my 84 wagon, and it limited its top speed to 55 mph on the highway

since you are doing all that cutting and welding, why not make a tap for a oil temp sensor, maybe a water temp sensor there if the oil dont get towards 250 deg. i know the cheaper wal mart temp gauges can get pegged permanently if you over cook it, like in a bad overheat. maybe a better gauge? (if the gauge dont work out, at leas there is a tap for an oil cooler? but its an idea worth considering anyway

run it to the ground. i bet it will go longer than what you expect it to. subaru durability test. since you would by now have in mind doing up another motor for it

double check the timing belts for your DISTY timing. make sure you line 0deg btdc after you bring the drivers side cam back to 1200, after finishing the passenger belt install http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm on the fuel rails, the line that goes to the injector rail, you will see it go to the injectors on the driver side, that is the PRESSURE LINE from the filter the line off the FPR, it goes straight out, that is the return line the 3rd line comes up fro the framerail by the hill holder, it has a fat foam casing, that is the tank vent line, it goes to the purge control

does a hill holder hold when the car is stopped on a DOWNHILL? if not, how can it tell if the car is facing up or down a hill?

did you do the belts or have the dist out? when we did alleyboys motor, it almost fired but didnt light up. it all came down to unplugging the mpfi harness connectors and re-plugging them in, and it fired up nicely what about the ground wire off the water pipe? did you connect the fuel lines properly? the line off the filter goes to the INJECTOR side of the fuel rail, and the return line is AFTER the regulator

and johnny depp would be perfect to play as Miles Fox!

there is an o-ring in the head gasket for the oil passage. also, there is an o-ring on the cam box-to head mating surface, on the bottom corner if you are lucky, maybe its the o-ring in the CAM BOX, and not the head hasket. try to see which seem the oil is coming from

i would presume its not in the gas tank? any one know? maybe i should get more under the car. is it behind the gas tank? sorry if i seem stupid to legacys, as i know mostly ea82

you can jack the motor up enough with the exhaust still connected to do each motor mount one at a time, jack up one side of the motor (on the pipe if you like), but unbolt it from the frame first. you may be able to do both this way

20 deg for spfi, 25 for turbo, 8 for carb

if you do the clutch with the motor in the car, pull the radiator, and the heater hoses, thats all. if you have a crane, you can pull the motor towards the front away from the trans, just enough to remove the clutch disc, a little more to remove the pp also. if you dont use a clutch alignment tool, you can finger tighten the pp bolts, enough to hold the disc still, but still move it around by hand. then tighten the bolts in sequence through the starter hole for a turbo, and all its complicity, i would say its not hard to pull the trans, if you get the car off the ground enough. i like to jack the car up sideways to drag the tranny out once its removed. if you would like to pull the tranny, i always drain the diff oil, makes less mess, you are changing it. the turbo downpipe fits on the side and back of the tranny. i would disconnect the flange for the mod pipe, and unbilt the top flange from the turbo, and leave the downpipe on the tranny. because when you line up the bottom studs, naturally, the turbo will line too. if yer pulling the motor out, the ps lines can be disconnected at the pump. the motor comes out with everything on it, turbo and all, belts. the ac/alt bracket can be swung out the way, with alt, ac, and its wiring still connected. if the ac is bad and you disconnect the ac lines, you can leave all that on the motor as you pull it

yes it will fit the same. i tell you that because i swapped one in when i converted my car from crank to power windows

its possible you may have aslight vacuum leak, henge the popping and burbling of the exhaust upon deceleration. hitachis will wear at the throttle shaft go with the weber before you blame the exhaust, my 2 cents

check to see if your fuel pump is coming on. you should hear it for a second once you turn the key on. you can also connect the green test clips, and the pump will cycle on an off, if the key is in the run position. the green clips will be under the hood for spfi, but if yours is mpfi? look under the steering culumn, behind the dash panel(like a turbo's) not to wuestion your intelligence, but is there an injector near each plug? MPFI? or does ithave a throttle bodt injector SPFI? anyway, start with fuel, or just pull the hose off the filter, and see if gas comes out when you turn the key on are you getting spark? check out the ign amplifier, the little round thing on the coil bracket check to see if the rotor turns when you crank it, but i doubt a timing belt would have broken from sitting maybe the water temperature sensor? but generally the car will start, but be hard to start when warm my buddy has an spfi sedan, it wouldnt start, spark or nothing in 20 deg weather, butr we came back the next day and she fired right up