MilesFox

you can drop the motor/trans/ypipe/front crossmember/steering/suspensin/struts as an assembly, its the same amount of work as puloling the motor/trans seperately, but you get the ENTIRE front end of the car. strap pn a seat and a gas tank and drive it around! the rear suspensipon/diff/axles/shox will come out as one piece, seight bolts, 2 brakelines

immediately after our 3AT TO 4WD 5SPD conversion on the sedan, we took it out for 4 days of baja'n, blew out a strut cap. we replaced that, to break it again. after the second time, we noticed oil on the shaft of the strut, so we replaced the strut and problem was solved to check the struts, thry bouncing up and down on the bumper. the car should bounce up, then down, then settle. if it moves any more cycles suspect a worn strut. also of the front bobs around after going over dips and bumps

ran one belt out west and back, no problems to this day. if you can find a non ac alternaor bracket and a dual pulley you can run 2 of the same belt you have now

our subaru alliance have installed roof racks on both the 4wd conversion sedan, and the RX. i did one on an 88 DL the outer rails are 2.5 inches fom the rear seam on a wagonb from the tailgatew, 2.75 from the side of the roof, and the center rails are 10.5 inches from the outer rails on the rx, the rails have been choppes just ahead of the mounting screw, so they dont sticj up with the curvature of the roof on th4e sedan, one of the cossmembers have been drilled out to acommodate sets of baja lights our applications removed the headlinet and use 1/4 inch screws with nylock nuts

needs more spraypaint! sheetmetal armor, too

lo miles and excellent shape = probably broke its first timing belt. 300 bucks i would do it

for a carb motor 8 deg is stock. 12 is not far off, some like to bump the timing for performance. mine is past stock but i cant tell you what it is till i get a timing light fuel injected models are 20 deg, and 85-86 turbos are 25

i will jack the car up by the diff or crossmember my favorite places for jack STANDS would be the front framerails, and the mounting points for the rear suspension tube assembly. sometimes i will place the jackstand on the bushings for the front swaybar. i generally dont put them on the lower control or trailing arms as i like the have the suspension move freely, as if the car is in the air its usually suspension work i never use the rocker panels or pinch welds as rusted models will cave in and collapse and allthat junk one clever way i used a jack was a tripodial stance. it was a 2wd to 4wd conversion, jacked up the rear and had one jackstand(big cast iron screw type, many ton capacity) i put a 4x4 piece of lumber longways in the tranny tunnel, and used the stand under it. the front wheels were on the ground. the car could rock side to side as the front suspension flexed, but the car was very well balanced, and was of good use since i was swapping out the entire rear suspension assembly

i have noticed on 89 and later mpfi turbo the intake has an absence of the egr, or the holes for it for that matter. looks like subaru eliminated it from the mpfi in 89 as stock form. something to consider...maybe find an 89 intake

suppose the ac has leaked out. danny charged his and it leaked, had to replace the o-ring. leaked again, it was the schrader valve on the ac line. he replaced it with opne off the sedan. the core from a tire valvestem will fit the same, but the seals on them are orange, wheras the ac's was grey in color. if it indeed had leaked out, you may as well replace the o-rings at the compressor or the valve core(or all)

use an spfi y pipe. i use one with 2/14 cherry bomb and 3 inch tailpipe after.

every now and so us butler crowd in NE IN goes baja'n in a local field. not too terribly far, we make laps and go in the woods!

if you wan to go to carb, it can be done with all stock parts find a carb and intake together, it bolts right on(and a weber carb can fit on the intake) find a distributor form any 85-87 carb ea82, and it will fit. connect it to the coil. you can leave all the existing spfi wiring and ecu itact, asd they will have no effect on the ign, and its not necessary to remove it. install a carb fuel pump(low pressure) in place of the fi one, you can even get away with eliminating the fuel return lines if the fuel wont blow past the needle valve in the float. connect the fuel pump to either the positive coil terminal or a toggle switch if so happens you cut too many wires, wire the coil to ign(or a toggle), do like you would a derby car for charge, ign, fuel its not much to do, i have run carb motors in an spfi body, and 2 mpfi turbo bodies. right now one is my daily driver, all of the mpfi is intact if i go back to mpfi turbo motor

later model ea82 motor swill fit, find a carb intake and use an spfi block. ann ea81 carb intake will bot to an ea82 motor, but you will have to invent a throttle cable mountand rebove the EGR valve and make a block off. the ea82 motor mounts fit the crossmeber the same, the bellhousing the same. you can swap the ea81 pitch bar mount to the ea82 motor. but since the disty is in the back of the motor, it will be really close to the master cylinder. you will want to remove the disty to install the engine(to clear the MC) then drop the dist back in once the motor is in. i myself had an ea81 intake on an spfi long block in an mpfi turbo wagon. mix and match can be done, subaru=legos

an ea82 motor will bolt into an ea81 car, wether it be an ea81 or ea82 tranny. ea82 motor on ea81 trans will require drilled out flywheel holes, but a 5spd is an ea82 motor are a perfect match

jim, do you mean the blower fan in the car or the fan on the radiator? maybe with the fan being hardwired with the key to begin with,(thats how it was when jim got the car) and now the ac wants to kick it in, there may be conflict with the circuits. i say this because on the dl, the fan was hardwired, and we hooked it up like it was supposed to be when we worked on it, and now the fan comes on with the ac when its supposed to, or when its hot, instead of all the time. i suggest on the sedan hook up the fan and thermoswitch like its supposed to be stock, and then do your troubleshooting from there

line up the driver side cam to 12:00 and the 3 marks. what you can do is remove the passenger side belt cover. unbolt the cam sprocket and remove it(to slip the belt off). now thread pulley and bolts back in, turn the cam to 6:00(with the other cam still at 12) you will have to fight the spring tension from the valves, but you can "balance" the cam at the 600 position. now you can slip the belt back onto the pulley, and then tighten the 3 bolts. if the tensioner was already adjusted you will not have to loosen it to begin with(if you prefer) here is some procedure for timing belts if you want to see where you may have went wrong http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

is your xt already turbo? if not ist mpfi, which would work with the turbo as far as the electricals go. if its not turbo you will have a higer compression ratio than with a stock motor, so you may wnat to go with an aftermarket engine management system the xt came as a turbo model also, and ea82T motor will bolt right up, and any from an 85-86 will work the same with the ecu and electricals, but you will need the knock sensing distributor to go with what i am saying is find a whole turbo motor off an 85-86 any turbo model subaru, since thay came like that anyway, and everything will pretty much be bolt-on with little or no modification

the pushbutton 4wd and the center diff lock use the same mechanism. i put an xt full time tranny in my turbo pushbutton 5spd, and my existing 4wd button and all the vac lines worked the diff lock mechanism the same. you can take a car with diff lock and put a pushbutton tranny in there and the diff lock switch will be your 4wd. when a full time diff is locked, it is the same thing as a pushbutton(part time) tranny engaged into 4wd

being coils they will pack in together, within eachother, and take up the space of one coil. i'll ask the post office today. if the money order is from the post office, postage can be paid when its cashed, one transaction. i'll see what the rates are. a timing belt cover cost me 5 bucks to send out, i dont know if it goes by weight or the size of the box.

might as well get the front engine seals while youre there. napa parts numbers http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/napa.htm

i got a set off a 2wd 83 wagon 130k, need to get rid of them. if you can figure out a shipping rate they are yours. email me if interested milesfox@yahoo.com

interesting, i'll give that a try. side note: if i jump the coil to the batytery, the car will still run after the key is off and removed! starter tab a good idea, didnt think of that (gt4hire if youre reading pay attention!) i'll post my progress here tomorrow. so far last night and this morning i didnt have the problem. but i will try that anyway as a contingency fix

on my rx, mpfi turbo with a carb motor and mechanical disty, sometimes it wont start unless i jump the + coil to the + battery, like a "jump start" for the coil, and when it starts, i can pull the wire and she still runs. today she started up though, its been intermittent for me as well follow up on my thread as it seems to be the same problem as mine http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18819

i got the rx with a carb motor, my secont durbo to carb conversion, but i never had this problem with the first one when you turn the key, crank, there is no spark till youlet off, sparks once, sometimes if you time it right it will start. i replaced the amplifier(mpfi coil) and that xseemed to fix it. i had the car driven and parked elsewhere for a few weeks, and when i came back to it it did the same thing if i jump the pos coil terminal to the battery, she will start, and once running, i can pull the jumper wire and she will still run. but if i turn it off or it stalls, it will not fire. yesterday it just so happened to start by itself, i warmed it up a little and moved iut around. i tried to start it 20 min later and same thing i may consider a pushbutton momentary button to star6t when cranking(like the jumper) but i also found an accel coil at the yard, and i may eliminate the whole amplifier deal. i noticed the black clip for the ground is not connected to the water pipe on the motor(motor end missing) could that have anything to do with it? it seems to me that trying to run the mechanical disty('86 carb) with the mpfi coil/amplifier that there is either too much resistance to fire up the coil, or maybe not enough juice? what kind of ideas would you have? it will misfire once in the upper rpm, coil breaking down. this is the same motor i had in trashwagon 5, but in there it had the shorter blue coil, this time it has the stock mpfi/spfi coil. maybe the resistance value for the coil vs dist is wrong? the battery was strong after sitting several weeks, it was strong the first time when i got the car together for the first time, battery on the shelf for months what kind of ideas would you have to eliminate the amplifier. i was going to try with the amplifier disconnected, and rin the pos coil to somewhere hot with the key on(run)