MilesFox

as far as the legacies go the parking brake is in the rear, so the front calipers do not have to be turned. as far as the haynes book goes, i remember when i was over to alleyboys peeping the FSM, i realized that a lot of the diagrams in the haynes book are straight off the fsm. my advice for using the haynes book, READ THE TEXT

you can swap in a 4wd automatic the same, it all fits the same. but you will have to change the rear suspension to a 4wd unit, you can swap the entire rear as a complete assembly, and you will have to invent a mount for the driveshaft. its best to score the tranny and suspension and all the related parts from the same donor car, so that you have everything you need.

just pull the hose off. it will spew a little bit of fuel, actually under a it of pressure. put a rag over the fitting so it wont spray everywhere. its not as dramatic as your repair info makes it sound to be. use some pliers to twist the hose so it will crack loose, otherwise it will never budge. loosen the fuel hose clam enough to slide it back an inch, past the fitting inside the hose, otherwise it will still want to hold onto the lip on the fitting. if you mix the hoses up, the line from the filter connects to the bottom fitting on the throttle body

i have seen the noise on 2 occasions. the first when the rear suspension started to fall out of the 88 wagon after a day of baja'n(rusty) and it pitched the diff up so that it made a sharp angle on the u'joint. the other occasion is when we made strut extensions on the back of the RX (myoss feece's anus lift) and it offset the angle again, prblem was cured by making a drop shackle for the diff so it was all nice and straight

if 4wd parts fit on a 2wd body, then why wouldnt a 4wd lift work on a 2wd. my 2wd wagon actually had tapped holes for the mustache bar

unplug the oxygen sensor and see if the problem goes somewhat away. if it changes any, then replace the oxygen sensor the 2 fuel filters are only in the older carbureted models. although the 1.8 ohc (ea82) motor was made til 1994, your 1990 2.2 (ej22) would be considered "new generation of subarus" so you should post there and get all the info you need! dont be disappointed that your car is having a bad day, the 2.2 is regarded as one of the most reliable subaur motors ever, and it will run forever if you keep up on the maintenance like changing the timing belt after 100,000 miles.

1. there are bearing races in the axle shafts, not too different than wheel bearings but theay are not pressed in. remove the locktab bolt on the bottom of the circle part of the axle shafy. unscrew the circle part by catching the ribs with a punch and hammer. the bearing will pretty much fall out, it fits in there witha conical shape. you have to do this to replace the seal anyway. 2. probably a leaky cam cover(valve cover) or the grommets for the cover bolts

one thing about the haynes book for timing belts is that if you look only at the picturs, you will do the job wrong. you have to read the text to catch all the stuff the pics leave out. the pics missed a step about turning the crank before doing the other belt. but i do find the haynes book useful for the electrical information and diagrams. but it lacks in detail about servicing the transmission and wheel bearings. on the rear bearings there is a spindle that goes thru like the front, but the axle is removable from that, i.e. there iare axle pins on both sides of the rear axle. you need a special tool to remove a retainer to get the inner rear wheel bearing out. chiltons book is about useless, its too in general and not specific enough. i like the haynes layout but some of it is lost from the "british translations"

yah i meant more towards the webbing in the port and not so much around the valve guides. the cracks between the valves can be closed up with a punch. the only worry about cracks between the valves is that if the get too big it may drop a valve seat. if you have the heads serviced ask the mechanic to stake them in, or do it yourself with a chisel, just make a notch of aluminum over the seat in about 3 or 4 places

wheel bearings can last the life of the car, but will only last as long as the seals do. the spindle is actually the outer part of the cv axle, which presses through an inner and outer wheel bearing. if the bearings arent making any noise you can let them go for now as far as changing the rotor, you will have to remove the 36 mm nut from the hub. remove the 14mm bolt on the bottom of the caliper, swing it out of the way. you then have to remove the caliper mounting bracket by taking out the 2 17mm bolts in back. you do not have to dis connect the brake line or parking brake cable. with all that out of the way, the hub/rotor will slide off the axle shaft(spindle). if the cone washe does not come off, tap around the hub with a hammer, or tap a screwdriver into the split. there are 4 14mm bolts that hold the hub to the rotor, remove them and tap the hub away with a hammer. put on new rotor in reverse sequence. install the nut to about 145 ft lbs(or snug the nut and 1/4 turn) make sure you install the cone washer and the flat washer. the flat washer will be slightly concave, put the concave side inward now, the piston on the caliper has to be turned clockwise to reess it, you cannot just push it in like conventional calipers, this is die to the fact that the parking brake is on the front brakes. there is a special yool ou can buy for this, but if you cant find one you can use some channel pliers to grip the piston and turn it, and oncce its so far in you can use the jaw end of some pliers against the notches on the oiston to turn it if you go as far as doing the wheel bearings, you have to remove the axle. with all the hub, rotor, and caliper removed. undo the tierod end and the ball joint with a pickle fork. use a long bar between the body and the lower contro arm to get the ball joint shaft out of the hole. use a 3/16" drift punch to drive the axle pin from the inner end. drive it out from the concave hole. now pull the axle away from the tranny. with the strut flopping around and the axle away from the tranny, thread the castle nut on the axle shaft so the flat side is flush with the end. use a 3 lb hammer and tap the axle through the knuckle, once its so far use a pipe or a 1/2" extension to drive it the rest of the way through. be careful not to damage the threads. you can use the round end of a ball peene hammer against the dimple of the axle shaft, hold it there and hit the ball beene with te 3 lb hammer. once tha axle is out, there are your bearings. to remove the bearings use the drift punch from the outside to drive out against the circumfrence of the inner bearing. remove the spacer between. turn the strut aroud 180 deg so you can drive the outer bearing from the inside. to install the bearings, seat them in what you can, and use the 36mm socket and a hammer to drive the bearing in and seat it. same for the other bearing. now instert the axle what you can into the bearing. put the inner end of the axle agianst the tranny. the holes only line up one way, so make sure you are not 180 off. insert the punch to be sure the holes align. drive the pin in from the concave side. now that the axle is on the tranny, you can tap around the knuckle to get the axle shaft through enough to catch a thrad with the castle nut. thread on the axle nut only to draw the axle through, then remove it and install the washers. turn the axle nut till snug, the torque to 145 or 1.4 turn. now use tha bar to install th ball joint, then tie rod, the assemble the calipera nd rotor assembly. it sounds like a lot of work, but its more about technique than it is about fancy tools and equipment. it may sound complicated, but its a repair(such as a broken axle) thet can be done on the side of the road or on the trail with a minimum of tools here is some reading material that will cover the timing belts, engine removal, and general maintenance for your subaru! http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm www.warpthree.com/milesfox (main index) if you find the ball joint removal too tricky tou can undo the lower control arm, radius rod, and swaybar, such as edrach describes in his axle procedure. either way, you have to be careful not to damage the axle threads. you can use a block of wood as an alternative to the ballpeen method, but wood has a tendency to split. the idea is to not have to take the kuckle off and find a press and all that. some visual from this message board http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.phpt=19884&highlight=axle+removal try a search for "edrach axle" i tried to find the article but it was probably removed because i posted there too

hey, i am having the sam problem today, i did find however that if you remove the bolt on the back of the y pipe then you can flex it enough to get clearance. the socke i used has a 1" hex on the top so you can turn it with a wrench

the MAF was replaced with one that wasnt obviously broken, whilst wiggling some wires the car maintained idle. it has to be temp related, as the car gets warm it doesnt stall. but it doesnt idle fast when cold either. jim replaced the temp sensor with a new one from the dealer, and it doesnt seem to make a difference even unplugged it runs the same. so i am thinking of a bad spot on the harness last night simply unlugging the ecu and re installing it seemed to fix the problem untill we messed with the coolant sensor. before that we had code 23 and 51, MAF and neutral switch. after r&r the ecu no codes. now we have a code 21 and 23, maf and coolant temp sensor, even though the temp sensor is new. its gonna call for some probing of the harness, i'll check all the grounds on the motor first, then probe to the ecu, and if i find dead spots then off comes the fender. the spfi engine harness did have a corroded terminal, but not the maf wires, and not the temp sensor wire, but the white wire right next to the temp sensor any ideas?

about the heads, i have taken good heads off to see that the cracks between the valves did go all the way to the valve guides. the heads were good to begin with, so we ported them out and used them on a carb block. as far as coolant in the exhaust, look for cracks in the EXHAUST PORT, there is where the water passage is, if you havent found a crack in the exhaust port, clean it up really good and you should find it. it will go from the septum in the exhaust port up into the head. bet you a dollar.

the NA block wont have the 'case breather for the pcv system, but you can bypass that. the na case should have the boss for the crank angle sensor though, but it may not be tapped as far as ea82's go the only difference between a turbo and na case is the one half that has the crank case breather one thing to note as far as compression goes, the idea of a lower compression cylinder will allow for more air/fuel mixture VOLUME to be squeezed in under boost as far as what i can tell you from experience, with the rx carb bottom end, we have had NO problem with 87 gas and stock timing. here in indiana with an average elevation of 900 ft above sea level i recommend porting of the intake and exhaust ports with a dremel and the snake atatchment. use the "roto-ziip" style bit to take the metal away, the cone and drum STONES to even it all up, and finish with a sanding drum. remove thevalves when you do this. one more thin that i would recommed, for the sake that our motor has this, is to take the dremel and blend in the valve reliefs on the N/A pistons to reduce hot spots and slightly lower compression. sane for theheads, we took the sharp edges off the circumfrence of the combustion chamber with the sanding drum

we called the soob dealer and they indeed have one in stock. i had to specify its the ecu sensor, 2 wires witha green clip. they wanted 76.55 for it, but i managed to talk him into a 10% discount. jim went to go get it, i told him to make sure to "swing that deal"!

i would figure it has a dropped valve seat, that may be loose enough to let the valve seal on and off, but if you look at the head with the cam case off, it will appear the valve is stuck open.

there will be a reverse switch on the tranny itself. i believe it has a green with black wire, and a black wire. anyway, look on the tranny

you can remove the whole front suspension, motor, and tranny as a unit. assuming you want to take the motor and tranny with, here goes: you can leave the y-pipe connected to the motor and its tranny mount. unbolt the 4 14mm nuts that hold the engine crossmember. undo the 12mm bolt at the steering linkage on the rack. undo the front rubber brake lines from the body. unbolt the strut cap from the body, 2 12mm nuts. where the radius rods and tranny crossmember meet, remove the 3 17mm bolts that hold the mounting plates. disconnect the parking brake cables from the hand lever end. undo all the wires, hoses, pitchbar, and tranny SHIFTER mount. the whole assembly will drop down if you want to leave the tranny and motor in the car, remove the axles from the tranny end, unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember, remove the exhaust y-pipe. leave the pitch bar connected. undo the ends of the radius rods as posted renaissance man. leave jack stands on the motor and tranny, one between the motor and tranny under the diff/flywheel, and the other on the tail of the tranny., drop the suspension away the suspension should come out as a unit, crossmember, struts, swaybar/radiousrods(and tranny mount if motor comes with) it is not neessary to remove any axles or brake calipers, and you can leave the tierods and balljounts alone

court blows. i went for my final pre-trial and they tried to offer me some cheap plea agreement, with 30 days in jail and the driving conviction. nope, wont do. so i go before the judge with a substitute public defender and the OTHER prosecutir, the PD couldnt make sense of the multiple files cases in front of him, so they and the judge went in the judges chambers for a few and left me alone in the court room to scratch a fox head onto the defendant's table with a paperclip. so they rescheduled my final pre-trial for oct 15. so far i havent seen my lawyer only once, "what is the relevance of theis rent agreement" he says in contrast, myoss feece has a real lawyer pro-bono, matt barnett lined up say he wrote his statement on his own will, while my case gets kicked around and my lawyer wont know anything about my case till 15 minuted before trial. im gonna have to speak for myself, fire my lawyer, or claim mistrial. they got it all messed up. i bet the trial itself gets pushed up to later. all i got is who i have in mind for witnesses, i have THE RIGHT TO hear and examine all witnesses against me, at least those who have statements such as matt, danny, the license branch lady, tim hansen, and may as well have the butler PD there too.

you can part off a tilt column and use the u-joints from inside it. that is what i used when i lifted my wagon, the splines and pinch bolts will fit the same

if you need a molded hose for the waterpump bypass you can order one for a ford (90 deg hose) if there is no soob parts in stock, and trim the excess length off to fix. 5/8" hose will work for the heater hoses, 1/2 inch hose for the turbo hoses. replace the turbo hoses anyway, i made mention of that after doing a head gasket, and then it blew out on the first run! the oil down hose off the turbo should be silicone

if the car ran when he parked it, the fuel pump may have seized. check to see if you can hear or feel the fuel pum come on. it will come on for 2 seconds when you turn the key ON. you can also pop the panel off from under the steering column and plug in the green connectors, that will cycle the fuel pump on and off. also you can pull a fuel line from the filter and see if fuel comes out, it should spew out at high pressure, out past from under the hood! if you dont hear the fuel pump, plug in the green testers and turn the key on. use a voltmeter or test light and probe the red wire on the fuel pump's clip and ground to the body and see if it lights up. if it does, then you know there is power. then ground the lead to the black wire, + still on the red wire. if you have light or 12v then the ground is good. if not you can splice a wire and cround it to the body. i like to run the wire thru the brake line grommet and ground to the seat belt bolt. if there is no power at all, check the relay, its under the dash and mounted to a clup on the left of the steering column above the ecu. if you want to try a quick fix to get it started run a wire from the battery to the red wire on the fuel pump and see if it comes on. if it comes on that way, you can rig the wire to the + coul terminal so the pump goes off and on with the key, until you can find the real problem

sometimes the ball joint can be 17 or 19mm, i have seen them both. if you want to convert from air struts you will need a whole strut assembly, that is the strut,spring,and cap. everything else will fit the same otherwise. if the front air bags are shot, and the rear are good, the rear will still function properly with conventional struts as long as the bags and lines are good on the rear to remove the strut, undo the 14mm pinch bolt on the bottom of the strut, take it out, pop the strut away from the knuckle. then undo the top of the strut from the tower. to install, bolt up the top first, then do the bottom. you may heve to tap a screwdriver or chisel in the pinch on the knuckle to hold it open to get the strut in/out. you will have to undo the brake line from the caliper and pull it through the tab on the side of the strut to remove it, opposite for installation. each side can be done in 30 min to an hour, depending on your pace and experience. xt struts will be too low and it will want to push in on the axles, so try for a wagon or sedan for parts. even if you buy new struts, you will still need the cap and spring, so your best bet is junkyard strut assembly, and then you can go with new struts if you like

maybe the wire or terminal is corroded? jim i will be there this weekend. tom, would you have a spare alternator? alleyboy, i have the same piece of metal i made jims carrier mount with, i will bring that and the welder. see if you can conjure up some small strip of steel about an inch wide, 1/4 thick, some angle iron or of that sort

the timing belt on the impreza lasts longer, the motor has less stuff hooked up and is less work to pull for whatever reason. i assume it has the 2.2. probably the most dependable subaru motor ever.