MilesFox

hey man, that car is rock solid. you are lucky it has NO carb problems, i like a carb with no problems! the exhaust has been welded up that i have seen myself, its solid and wont fall off. although i would suggest upgrading to an ea82 y pipe and some 2 inch after the flange. the gate in back, if you pop the lever it might not open, as if you close the front door the vibration will latch it again. pull the lever, then open the gate before you close the door. also this car has the bigger ea81 motor rather than the ea71. so this one is the GL and not the std hatch. the tranny me and danny put in ourselves, its out of an ea82, came from a gl-10 sedan that jim from ohio had used once in a turbo XT, and its rock solid. we did have to fabricate a rear mount for it, though if for any reason you want to ditch the auto, i have a complete 5spd 2wd jon had offered the car to me one time ago, and if i had the cash it would have been mine. there are a few rust spodt on the body of the car, but its not so bad you wouldnt want to fix it. one project idea i had for the car wa an ej22 motor and 4spd 2wd AT, to use with ea82 front suspension, turbo axles, and my modified crossmember to acommodate the ea82 parts jon had this car before, sold it, then bough it back from whom he sold it to, and now sold it again. jon liked the car for his daily driver, it and the datsun 610 wagon he has there. maybe if you want some better seats we can find some for you, you can modify ea82 seats to fit. i may be parting out my 86 sedan so let me know if you want anything. also leftover in BUTLER at the carbola i have a 4wd rear suspension and a 4wd hatch gas tank(you will have to swap out for the rear diff) i dont have a diff or axles, but you can swap in the 4wd rear uspension and keep running 2wd till you find the rest of the parts we have been hitting up the junkyards in columbus, so maybe you might have us get things for you, or just come with us!!! i used to live in butler but i got out of there and moved to fort wayne good luck with the car, you found a jewel in the rough, especially around these parts. a rough suabru is better than NO subaru:)

you can swap out the trailing arm with that of an ea81 or ea82. of ypour ride is an ea81, you can use ea81 by making the hole bigger on the frame and using the larger bolt. i had a wheel bearing go, and it tore out the center of the bearing hubs. if you want to ditch the drum brakes you can swap on disc brakes, or the whole trailing arm/brake assembly from a turbo ea82

also make sure the steering wheel is straight. an 84 with a 5spd? either a 5spd has been swapped in, or your ride is an 85? does your car have 4 square headlights or 2 rectangular? dumb question, but the 5spd caught my attention

i do know that a hatch windshield is different than that of a wagon, brat and hatch door glass is also different. but i have seen chef tim's hatch, he cut out the roof section between for the fun tops, neato pimpin'

he haynes book has the torque sequence. it is very important you torque the bolts in a specific pattern, using a 3 step torque there are shorter and longer bolts, the shorter bolts will go in the more recessed holes. start with teh bolt in the dead center, then the 2 above, and work in a radial pattern, tracing around the cyls. does anyone have a pic of the sequence? i snug the bolts by hand tight, then 25 lbs first round, 45 snd round, 55 3rd round. reverse order for removing the heads www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild here is a photographic sequence of an entire headgasket overhaul for an ea82 turbo, including all engine seals. notice the pictures used copper sislicone on the cam boxes but you will want to use anaerobic gray sealer. orange is best on the exhaust, and i like to use it on the intake as well

no the ea81 baljoint stud is fatter than ea82. what year you lookin for? as far as the parts counter goes, 82-84, 82, 87-89 85-87,89 are your ea81 listings, and your 85-94 listings are ea82. some listings may be 85-89 for ea82 make sure you specify ohc or ohv for ea81 or ea82 respectively. for ea82 i like to use an 87 4x4 wagon as a listing to use

jim (86subaru) lives between anna and sidney oh, exit 94 off 75, about 3 mi north of the exit. i go to jims quite often, and sometimes to columbus too. right now my license is suspendid till april, but jim comes to pick me up from fort wayne, and i stay the weekend there and work on soobs. if ever i am at jims you can meet with us there! hollar at jim, too, or alleyboy. all 3 of us meet quite often and collectively sit on a goldmine of parts ans subaru goodies!

i got a spider intake and i want to explore the possible use on the rx. as we know the rx has a carb motor now, but the turbo harness is still intact. the reason it has a carb is because the MPFI wen out in some way shap eor form on the car itself(the motor works in another car now) i figure if the wiring harness is bad, i can isolate the ecu connectors and connect them directly to the motor. i may try my installation without the turbo at first, using a carb block. i do have an mpfi non turbo long block, but i'll save that for use with the 97 regular intake leftovers what i want to know is do these manifolds work the same with one ecu? i do have the ecu to the spider, i wopuld want to use the one in the car already, or swap the ecu if the plug ins are the same i anticipate using an xt6 throttle body, are the connectors the same or will i have to splice a connector. wat about xt6 MAF? and for use of a turbo, what would you use to plumb the turbo. my setup is from a mpfi non turbo

i had a 2wd adn i lifted it and converted to 4wd at the same time. i bilt my lift, had to fabricate, not too hard to do, simple in principle. so what kind of parts do you have to use? you can fit some later model parts if you need too, such as rear diffs, trailing arms, and brakes. the parts dont have to come from a hatch to fit

yeah you could turn it into 4wd with not a lot of $$$ just have the right parts, you could even put motors from later models in. i think it would be nmore interesting as a project car that can be built up as much or a little more than one that is already 4wd. chances are it may be hard to find a 4wd, so a 2wd subaru is better than no subaru!! my car i have now i got as a body and i put it together with parts i already had. if you need a part get ahold of me, alleyboy, or 86subaru we meet quite often, between sidney oh and columbus. i see you are from hicksville? did you get the HATCH from jons auto and truck? if you did thats the one i fixed with jim's tranny. that car has an EA81 motor, which came with 4wd and 2wd generally got ea71. bonus points there! do you know the guy with the justy?

yeah the 4wd is vacuum operated. you will see a diaphragm on the side of the tranny. there are 2 lines that run to the solenoid switches on the firewall. trace the lines along the firewall and find the vacuum canister. this will connect to a skiinny hose going to the motor, make sure its hooked up does all the heater selections blow out the dash only? this is a tell tale sign of this vacuum hose being loose you can shift the 4wd at any speed in and out, the mechanism will react usually as you are off the gas, so you free load either wayu and it will go. its easiest to go in and out iod 4wd as you are shifting a gear, hit the button as the clutch is in

as far as o.e or napa head gaskets, the turbo and n/a are the same part, design the only difference you will find between ea82 head gaskets is by the different manufacturers' material and quality

yes you can build a carb short block with turbo top end. the rx developed a rod knock, so we swapped the 135,000 mi carb block leftover from robert's wagon. the only modifications were ported heads, but these were heads with cracks between the valves, too anyway we had no problems running 5500 miles west and back, stock timing and 87 gas. anyway here's pictures of ours www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild

its gotta be something simple but troubleshooting will find it. try the codes they are in the haynes book and are posted on USRM-repair&mod. the code will telly ou exactyly whats wrong. if you dont get any codes then suspect the timing alignment of the belts and cam vs distributor

maybe it just wasnt full enough with coolant after doing the work. butping the last air out can be tricky, it will take a few, top offs to get it full sometimes, wait for the thermo to open and all that

2 people could walk around with it, you can set it in a 5 gal bucket and push/drag it around. you could chuck a short block across the room

yo the cherry bomb is pimpin'! i had one on my ride, it broadened the midrage and opened the top end. much torquier than no muffler i had mine mounted at the flange before the y pipe, and fat pipe after that. all of the flow and sound was after the muffler, so that didnt effect scavenging, backpressure myoss feece put his after the flange and made 2 1/2" exhaust after it, up and over the axle, out the tailpipe original location, all with auto zone premade lengths and bends(not the flexo-pipe:) ) and this ussed the stock mounting locations. any chance you get have things WELDED, cause it gets old having to find your exhaust(pieces)after some good baja'n

use whatever pump tou want. use the pulley that goes too the shot pump 105mm has the pullet that bolts to the eater pump the long pump 110mm has the pulley that slides to studs. the only difference with xt pulleys is the flat belt grooves, but wii fit the same to a relative water pump

using the turbo cams will work good for low end pulling, but it will lose any scavenging effect, less overlap, because the the turbo motor sdoesnt want boost to get past the valves. this would work for low rpm chuggint like towing, no exhaust... but maybe you would want to use the spfi cam, so the valve and timing profile will be the same for n/a. you will still want valve overlap for higher rpm, for scavenging, and to work well with the y-pipe. your tranny will appreciate the higher rpm power, 35--/5500

the socket has a hex on the top so if a ratchet doesnt work, you can fit either its a 1" oe 13/16" open or box wrench

i myself have pulled with onee other person and 2 other people. what i did was took everything off the motor, intake, ac assy, heavy stuff, leave ps pump on grab the driver side by the back of the disty mount and the timing belt pulley, crank, or ps pulleys. the other guy grabs the oil fill tube and the bottom of the cam box 3 people have him tkake the crank pulley and get the fertical load as the side people lift up and forward jack up the tranny to get the motor out of its mount holes

undo both motor mounts from the crossmember, you can go up a bit without dropping the exhaust there are holes in the skid plate that a screwdriver or socket will fit, put your socket by hand above the holes, and stick the extension thru. you can use a screwdriver to thread in and out the bolts i like to use copper rtv on the cork gasket, nug bolts with screwdriver and 1/4 turn with 1/4" ratchet

yeah an ea82 fits like no problem here are some helpful hints: -remove the distrubutor when installing the engine so it clears the brake MC, then install the disty. -swap out the ea81 pitch bar mount onto the ea82 so you use the ea81 pitch bar setup -the ea82 with its motor mounts fit the same -5spd dual rance fits on the ea81 trans crossmember -use ea82 radiator hoses on the ea81 rad. an ea82 rad will also fit -you can use washers to space out the trans crossmember to help clear the dual range 5spd the engine will clear the framerails just fine. if you lift say 3 inches the timing belt covers will interfere, but open belts will clear. if you lift 6 inches(fab) you will have to make a notch to clear the cam cover on the disty side you can re-locate the battery and the coil to the other side for ea82. use the ea82 battery cable, you will have to cut out the jack mount for the battery. run a lead from the battery to the alt, and run the alt over to the ea81 fuse link block. this will make way for dual battery!

if you use a dual range you can keep the rear diff and tranny mount, and also your axle s will fit. if you use the awd you would have to make a tranny mount, and also either modify the suspension to use ea82 parts and 25spline turbo axles, or have a custom ea81 axle with 25 spline doj

you could use pictures or diagrams of regular ea81 wagons, since the body is the same minus the raised portion of the roof. you could calculate the roof maybe using the ea82 t-wag as a reference. some pics may yeild different grill/headlight assemblies but the overall specs would be the same such as length, width, wheelbase