MilesFox

you should have the same size tires all the way around. if not at least have the same size 2 tires, one on the back and one on the front, opposite sides, so the open diffs can make up the difference dont use 4wd on dry pavement

get a performance coil and some 7 or 8mm cutom wires, gap the plugs to .050 and bump the timing a few degrees

on the non turbo the exhaust header is referred to as the y-pipe. on turbo motors the x or crosspipe goes from both exhaust ports to the turbo, the downpipe is the pupe from the turbo down to under the car

very nice the exhaust looks stock withits fitment and overall appearence. me likey likey

all ea81 rear axles are the same no ea82 axles wont fit since the ea82 is wider ea82 doj will fit on an ea81 rear axle axle stubs, bearings, and trailing arms are swappable between either

30 degrees is nice n'breezy over here. i bet torxxx would be in a t-shirt! anyway im good til about 20 deg, once it gets around 15 its too cold for me. i can stand the cold for a while till my feet get too cold. steel toe boots dont help. a hat and gloves go a long way, and keeping the wind off you as well. wear sweatpants under the jeans and you will stay warm for a while

85-86 maf for turbo and non turbo mpfi is the same. the only other MAF for that year is the 86.5 spdi, which will not work i believe ea81T (83-84) maf will work, since it has the vane style MAF and the MPFI system is very similar

oh man the xt is a whole different story pulling the column, the instruments come with the column, there is the tilt cable that has to be disconnected, and many more bolts holding it to the dash. not to mention the wires! good luck

for the valve(cam) covers the boltswill only tighten so far down because its a shouldered bolt.. the gasket itself is formed rubber and fits in a groove on the edge of the cover. over time they get hard and brittle, and can crack, causing leaks. a temporary fix would be to pull the cover and lok for cracks, fill the cracks with RTV when you buy a gasket set it will include the rubber grommets for the bolts as well you can get them off easier if you undo the motor mount bolts from the crossmember and jack the motor up as much as the exhaust will allow. also remove the front pitch bar bolt to allow it to move when you drop the motor down you can walk the motor mounts into the holes with a pry bar

if the heads turn out to be good you can get away with using a carb'd block if you keep everything stock. if you go modded an intercooler would be the first thing you would want

yes this would make sense for spfi or tbi systems, but the spider intake has the injectors near the heads

i know of an 84 brat that is AT

interstate batteries cam original equipment in older soobs. i have been pleased with them. i had one that was on its way out from abuse but it held out better than i though t it would

the bottom end is prababl trash if the head bolt threads are broken down if the car otherwise in good shape its worth getting, having died from overheat, you know at least the mpfi works and the turbo is still good. the heads may be salvageable and you could find another motor i would say if you get it for cheap then its worth a project

ok. the one i have is non turbo mpfi. how different is the turbo piping to the TB. is there any mix of other stock parts i can use to put a turbo with the spider? is yours stock or custom? got a pic? sorry to jack the post:cool:

oops i responded to the double post, now what?

yeah i know what you mean it got by me when i pulled the spider from an xt didnt expect it there. i guess the reason coolant goes to the TB is to prevent icing of the throttle body in cold weather? maybe you should bypass it for turboing purposes

hey its easy. somple 12v and ground. once you accomplish this any other electrical work will seem more understandable disconnect the- battery terminal so you dont short anything out, the amp needs a constant hot wire off the battery, a ground, and the remote wire that turns it on from the radio or a switch

ea82s will fit no problem. they can be had for cheap, parts are more common for it. so what if it has timing belts if you ditch toe plastic covers you can change them in 10 minutes rather than 3 hours anyway the ea82 has the same bellhousing and motor mounts, and the ea81 intake will fit on the ea82(non tubo)

when approaching turns say at an intersection, do all your braking and slow down before you turn. dont brake during the turn, because the front may understeer and put you into the opposite lane! use common sense and be aware of the momentum of the car

an ea82 will bolt righ tin if you have the flywheel to it. if not you can drill the holes in the old flywheel to fit the ea82 if you found an ea82 long block with no intake, the brat intake will fit. you can use an spfi block with the brat intake and gain some compression also if you use an ea82 swap the pitch bar mount from the old motor onto the ea82. take the disty out to clear the master cylinder when installing it, them put it back in. either way you will need a 85-86 carb disty to work in the brat, but you will have to either lengthen the wires or put the coil on the other side. if you use an ea82 battery/starter cable you can put the battery on the other side too, just run a wire to the alt output form the new location(you will have to remove the jack holder) motor mounts and bellhousing are the same with the ea82 vs ea81

pushing down on the lever may get it to latch again. the lever side has teeth that fit onto the "dogs" on the track on that side, and there is a cable that goes across to the other side to another teeth. pushing down on the lever shopuld at least hold on that side if the other one is sticking. take the seat out and have a look, should be easy to fix

notice the caption, the white one is the standard "STD" hatch

well since the motor is from an AT you wont have the ea82 flywheel. if you drill out the flywheel holes it will fit the motor. drill them out to the diameter the flexplate bolts are, and get longer bolts with the right thread, m10 x1.00 thread if you can get some ea82 flywheel bolts that would be best. just drill the flywheel holes out bigger and there you go! the motor mounts will fit the same take out the distributor when u install the motor so you clar the master cylindr, tyhem put it back on i would say its best to use an ea82 tranny as well, if you find the flywheel for it, but there is a lot more invilved like the driveshaft and tunnel clearance, but i have done a full ea82 motor/trans swap into an ea81 and its not too difficult. not hard to do as long as you know what all you need to use

imagine removing all that plastic. it would probably break off in that cold! go open belts