MilesFox

i had an 83 wagon, fwd 5spd, i converted it to 4wd and the holes for the diff hanger bolts were already there on ea82's the 23d and 4wd tanks are the same but yeah, everything will swap over, so long as you have all the parts u need

well i may have to swap out the wheels with the rx, the rx has knuckles from an 86 wagonthe wheels on the sedan now are from an 86 ea82, silver rims, i should find a set of black rims to use. i do notice the rims on the car are more dished than what im used to, but they are also original to the 86 sedan they came from yes, the sedan has newer brake pds

ok if the parts car is MT and you are using the AT, you need to find an ea81 flexplate with bolts. it will fit the ea82 torque converter just fine

yay good work keep em coming!!!

i have an 88 2wdat to 4wd 5spd conversion sedan, although it has been converted to 4wd it has 88 front suspensions. i have a set of rims that are rubbing on the front calipers. these rims came from an 86 sedan. so does that mean there is a difference in size between 86 and 88 front calipers? at first i thought maybe one of the caliper bolts were parted out but its all there like it should be. they rub on the caliper like i have observerved ea81 wagon wheels on an 88 dl wagon so does this mean also that ea81 wagon rims will fit on 86 ea82? one observation that i have made between an 87 gl-10 and an 88 spfi wagons, i had swapped a caliper from the 88 to the gl 10 and noticed that one of them has 2 bolts that hold the parking brake cable support and the other had one bolt

sounds good about the tent idea. i should get one myself. maybe john will put up his back yard to pitch a tent

just take the old idiot light to napa or advance, ask to compare to see if you need an adaptor. compare the fittings in the gauge kit to the sender, and compare both to any fittings at the store

is the steerig off center? a bent rear trailing arm will throw the steering wheel off. mine is bent and looks like camber

if i remember correctly i parted out this 83 gl-10 fwd 5spd wagon, and i believe it had a rear swaybar. try cheking into ea81 gl-10's

yes the swap can be done, you will have all the parts needed between both cars the is the parts car an AT or MT? you will have to swap over the fuel pump from the parts car, to go with the carb you may have to swap some of the wiring and the ecu for the carburetor to run the egr and purge solenoid, although you can get the carb to run allrighe without it i have an 87 rx that has a carbureted ea82, what you are doing will be the same involved as in my car, except you will be using the ea81

hey if youre bringign the RX it sleeps rather well in back! we could camp out in a wagon circle of sorts so long as we have a place to park overnite

you may as well keep it turbo. here are your options if the turbo or mpfi turns out to be bad you can swap in a carbbed motor, just change out the fuel pump you can swap the turbo top end onto a carbbed bottom end it is speculated an ea82 turbo from 85-86 will work, the motor itself will bolt on, and the engine management systems are very similar if not identical. supposedly all the plug ins fit the same a 5spd dual range can be swapped in, you know the basics, flywheel, tranny mount, driveshaft, diff for the ea81 turbo bl;ock the flywheel from a 5spd will fit, but if you use a carbbed motor or bottom end you will have to grind a way on the bottom of the bellhousing to clear the staryter teeth. but you ca also swap the engine bellhousings too hope this answers you i have myself put 5spds in ea81T, and ea82 motror in ea81, just havent done an ea82T in place of ea81T, but i did convertthe same ea81T to carbureted

you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft itself, leave the front end in to plug the tranny. you can drive like this too if you need to get around till you get your part the rear half of the driveshaft is the same for manual and auto, so if you are junkyarding any will do

remove the roll pin on the inner end of the axle with a 3/16" drift punch. then pull the axle away from the tranny by eaither separating the ball joint with a fork, removing theball joint fom its pinch bolt, or by disconnecting the lower control arm. once that is done you can whack the end of the axle with a hammer and pound it out. be careful of the threads, iu use the round end of a ball peene hammer against the dimple on the end of the axle, and hit the ball peene with a 3 lb hammer to put the axle back on put it on the tranny end, slip the spindle end into the knickle and tap around the knuckel enough tull you can get the nut on, use the nut to draw the axle thru, tnen remove the nut, install the washers and then the nut

put a beer manifold on it. draft injection. more taste less carb

cutting the airbos wont affect torque it will give potential for airflow it will give you some intke noises the stock y pipe does most of the exhaust characteristics. you could run it alonr and have good hogh rpm, but low end may suffer a little. i like to put a glasspack immediately after the y pipe and that gives me the best of both top and low try running with NO y pipe, take off will be boggy but man will she scream in the high rpm!

well it has been tha last 2 times. i discussed this with jim we agreed on memorial day iluvdirt whats the word on using the shop for the meet?

yeah its funny you should hear the jokes hey my typing is worse but it still gets to the point if its not worth replying to then dont. hot close to home waht? get off it. and tyeah i see the typo but i dont feel like correctin g it

actually the idiot light hole is one of the plugs if the other sender is used. you can use this hole if you can find an adapter to fit the gauge fitting. take the old sender to autozone and ask them to compare to fittings(behind the counter) there is also a fitting towards the bottom of the pump that takes a allen wrench to remove, this can fit but the threads will be tight, it may be hard to start a thread as it will want to tap itself to the fitting's thread. be careful here if you feel you will mess it up go the adapter route. with the other hole

the clutch cable may be too tight. it should not exert any pressure on the fork at rest. back ofr the cable till the fork is relaxed, so you can wiggle it by hand, then adjust the cable just enough that it takes the slack out of the cable, but does not begin to pull the fork. make your final adjustment to the clutch cable before you adjust the hill holder if the cable is too tight it stresses the cable, it pushes the pp too far and wers out the fins, and if its too tight enough its as if the clutch is partially depressed and the PP wont hold 100%

hey that is a neat idea, this is somethig i would definately do myself. how do you determine how much you have taken off?

yes you can connect an aftermarket tereo to the common ground. the left front and rear share a ground as well as the right front and rear. what you do is connect the front - to the ground for each side and leave the rear - from the aftermarket radio disconnected, tape them off

dam gary why you gotta be so hard on jim for? not everyone is a super secret government agent:rolleyes:. very unbecoming of a MODERATOR. napa is a nation wide store, you knew that. dont hold yourself so high, put others down. are you coming to our next alliance meet? jim says he really wants to meet you, "miles and skip are father and son" dont make me run you off the board again

a carb block would be ideal. use the turbo heads and intake, carb bottom end. the hole for the knock sensor is present on the block. the crankcase vent is not there but you can bypass that here is what is involved, me and a buddy built turbos on a carb block for an RX www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild

www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild there are a few pics of an ea82 turbo in carious stages of head gasket and reseal, block, block with intake, block with intake and turbo. and pics of the individual parts themselves