MilesFox

i read a little on that last night with the search, but i disnt see any pics. i will look again at least if i can see an example, it will give me an idea of what to do. so far the only example i had seen was one BRATSRUS had (uninstalled), it was one of 2, which i believe the other one CORKY had in ULTIMATE RX

i was right. time came to renew my plate, so i mentioned a discrepency with my title. i said that i wasnt taken seriously the first time, and it was never looked up. so i go in today to look it up, mentioning the jf2 thing. sure enough, the lady cracks open a book, ans counds back so many letters, and I WAS CORRECT! the title SHOULD say 4w instead of 4s. but for me to correct that anf get am MPV plate, it will cost me 15 bucks for a new title. so i have to pay for their f*ckup. the dum bizzle owes me 15 bucks! i hope they have a form to have the state reimburse me just like the time i registered my motorcycle, made mention to spell my name right. sure enough she spelled it wrong, printed it out. and from right there i would have had to pay again to correct it. stupid but what do you expect from a license service system that will inadvertently allow you to have a different address on the license, registration, and title. and the name spelled different on each one i'll be damned if i get a "false and fictitious" ticket because my title says sedan when im driving a wagon oh well, the truck plate is more, at least i know what to do from here, its all good now

the iac or aav valve above the thermostat housing introduces air, a "false" vac leak to increase idle. it is open cold, and closes warm. perhaps it is not closing? pinch off the hose between it and the throttle body and see if that changes anything

actually, the FRONT half of the driveshaft is the only thing different in length between the 2. keep that in mind if u joints go out, just replace the rear half

looks like im gonna have to find me a nifty chunk of aluminum, for now...

my technique involves no special tools i jack up the car by the stud of the ball joint enough to load the suspension, then i pop out the tie rod with a hammer(nut reverses, flush with stud) to turn the strut enough to whack the lower control arm with a hammer, to pop the ball joint. then i will use a 2x4 or long bar to push the control arm down, then pull the strut away, to remove the axle from the tranny end(pin already out) from there the axle will float around enough to pop it out from the front fairly easy this way, and you can stick to the procedure without a ball joint separator or special tools. its less work that way in my opinion, and more room to work with anyway, glad you got yours fixed, it worked for you

so i have this leganus with a 2.2 motor. well, i pulled it out to see how it would fit against a full time 5spd the bottom studs line up, but the trans is offset to the motor that way. i compared the flywheel, and the holes are the same size and pattern, just farther apart. the center for the crank is the same size. i removed the studs, stuck the flywheel on(no bolts) and lined up the input shaft. i need to figure a way out to make an adapter plate, i found some pieces of hot rolled steel, have the idea to weld on some studs. the holes between trans and motor are too close to make side by side bolts, i would like to drill and tap itf there is enough meat. so far i can do the flywheel, if i can just figure out an adapter. if all else fails, i can go with the ej 2wd auto just so i can do the swap, to have a reliable motor instead of some floppy carb (87 gl-10 turbo (carbbed spfi block) wagon, half a 5 lug suspension)

i like to pop the tie rod out as it gives me more room to move things, and slip a 2x4 in there to push the control arm down. i left the brakes on when i pulled the axle, but i like to remove the caliper(line and park-cable still connected) and bracket to tap the knuckle with a hammer to start the axle. but you can leave it on if the parking brake has been engaged the whole time, and you dont booger the splines in the hub

there is like some 720 deg of crank rotation for the procedure. it is common for a botched job to have the cams 180 off and lined up to TDC rathere than the 3 marks the 3 marks means that ALL of the pistons are in the MIDDLE of their stroke. with the open belts like in the pictures, i can knock out a timing belt job in under 20 minutes. one more thing, the oil or water pumps might as well be serviced at the same time, since its tghe same amount of work to get to them

jim and his wifew tried to get the car out before we showed up. i got there and got it out on the third "rock" hence my clever driving technique

DO NOT use a 1/4 punch, as it will get stuck. a *slightly* smaller than 3/16 will work, as long as it doesnt want to go IN the pin itself

once you get experienced with the axle procedure, you will be able to do one by removing only the ball joint, tierod, and caliper. the axle will come out with the rotor in place(park brake set) but i recommend removing the rotor to install(tap on the knuckle to start axle. once you get familiar, the procedure for one axle can be narrowed down to around 20 minutes

is the speedo itself working? tjhe sensor is in the instrument cluster, and is for things like cruise control so if speedo isnt reading, check the cable. my 83 wagonhad cruise on jims sedan, he accidentally pulled away the speedo cable while changing heater hose, thus resulting in no speedo, and a VSS code on the ecu

I had installed a new clutch set in jims 4wd spfi wagon. he had it parked at a barn since winter set in. Well, we came down to fix the TPS, but the wagon was stuck. We attempted to get the car out, which we did with some clever driving technique, third attempt. Jim had attempted to get it unstuck before we showed. the clutch had only less than 10 miles, there was an odor of burnt clutch, and dust present(from the first attempts. We managed to get it going, but the clutch cable seemed loose, so we tightened it. but the clutch seemed to be still engaged, with it near impossible to get in 1st or reverse without first shutting the motor off. we made it to a gas station, but when we left, no clutch at all. we pressed the clutch pedal, you can hear it against the throwout bearing, but no go. so we got it back, and i pulled the motor away to inspect. I had speculated that the clutch smoked enough to "fluff up" causing clutch drag. p separated the bell housing and a bunch of dust and the disc metal parts just fell out. so i pulled out the "hub" of the clutch, the disc part had desintegrated, all the circumfrence was gone. i proceeded to clean all the dust up, and noticed a considerable amount in the flywheel. a closer look, and i noticed the outer circumfrence of the clutch disc was stuck in the flywheel! what happened, from the way it looked, is that when the clutch was smoked from the first attempt, the pressure plate side fluffed away, making so much dist that it wedged the flwheel side to the flywheel. then on the way to the gas station, the torque of the motor ripped away the outer circumfrence from the clutch, therefore ripping it apart my point: clutch dust, seized disc, clutch drop, ripped apart. interesting clutch failure

i wished i could have lent a hand during the troubleshoot, but i was busy with the clutch on the other wagon. but we plugged in a different motor, and replaced the switch to no avail. jim has the haynes book, and i am handy with the electrical troubleshoot, so i will have to take a look next time i come down. i bet we can fixit by a cleverly places jumper wire, once i peep the schematics

if we take the wagon, i will stow the gas on top. i dont want to smell it all day, the last time reduced my tolerance to gasoline

what year is your car and is it spfi, turbo, carb?

not a rocester, but something other than a weber, i had the idea of using a hollet 2bbl i had, and to grind out a 1/2 thick chunk of aluminum to match the carb, and have it tig welded to a hitachi manifold. i had all the stuff, its still around somewhere....

sounds like used car dealer tricks, not actual repairs

wow, thanx for the luck wishes. yes, the guy in whitefish with the camo ea82 wagon, i got his pics on my server... i will be running on 5 lugs, i will have 3 choices for tires, the xt6 14's, impreza 13's, or leganus 15's i will bring one can of gas, (dont want to smell it all the way there ), i will bring all of my spare timing belts, too. i know exactly which tools to bring, for any repair, ask anyone who was at wcss5!!! that and i got a lot of supplies and spare parts still in the trashwagon5. first things first, i am paying back Bradd for the bus ticket this weekend. then i can start saving as far as "is it worth it over potential jail" i didnt build a car to aboandon it agross the country. the trip is only half complete. Trashwagon will pick up from where it left off, and return on its intended route back home. Furthermore, Zanny Dook will be present, as he was ONE of the 2 that went with me the last time. jail dont scare me, but it gets old having to start over again each time. but i will be safe and dare not step over the idaho line, since the warrant wont expedite or arrest out of state. (hence my 2 pullovers, 2 tickets, and numerous court dates here since) probation remembers the last road trip. i will tell the PO that im getting my car, dont know if i cant leave state. but thats that if i were to be stopped, pulled over in idaho, off to jail. nothing i could do but ride out 375 bucks in court costs worth of jail time, back to where i was. but i will hand over the car and tell my dudes to hit the road, because if my car gets home, i could much care less about being in jail. thats how i would feel anyway. so that doesnt scare me. losing car forever scares me all in all, this trip will be final redemption for everything since wcss5. Redeeming myself for my car, my friends, my job and everyone at work, and all those who helped us out last time. as far as the least colorful car, its gonna be trashwagon6 (blue with orange stripe, hood scoop (NO SHEET METAL OR LIGHTS) if its nut up to the task, it will be an 87 rx wit a blue fender, and an anus lift. as far as tires, i got them out my anus, i will bring 2 tires, one in the hood, one on top. trashwagon 5 has its spare too, thanks to flowmaster87, edrach, and ezap. it also has 2 good axles and a good spare, thanx ed. it also has a good gas tank, vs a ruptured rigged up one the way out thx ratty2subaru. and a replacement fender from a catastrophic blowout thx bratsrus(jerry). straight bumper and passenger doors thx LUMPYCAM. and thx BRADD for the bus home, the security of my car, and the patience with the boundary county judicial system.

cool. glad u like. if you got any good parts numbers napa specific, i can put them on the page, if you would like me to do that

cool. you are definately good to go until you find a replacement axle. happy donuting!!!

rguyver is your man, he did it, spfi on a ea81 in a hatch and turbo'd. dont forget the ea82 suspension in front, like i did on my wagon i myself have mocked up a turbo and spfi intak/dist to an ea81, but thats all i got to. the difficult part would be the routing for the turbo plenum and intake, something about saab parts there. you can find rguyver in msn groups, occasionally he will appear on the usmb, but not often try searching for the old usmb board, something may be posted there

the clips under the dash are for TURBO models. skip corrected me on this a while back(i assumed 88+ was under the hood, jims spfi wagon, and 87- were dash, my 87 turbo wagon) , now i pass it along turbo under dash spfi under hood xt(and 6) in the trunk under the rear deck (thx qman)

sorry corky, i should have been more specific, i was responding about the bearings in the strut cap, not the knuckle. its blatantly obvious there is a difference in ea and xt6 parts. cause i have them all in a pile on the floor waiting to go in my car!! i would spend 100 bucks on xt6 parts, and 200 bucks on a legacy(for the struts, axle) for parts that wont fit!!!! for a little bit i am going to be sportin a mix and match, 5 lug rear(to replace my bent trailing arm), and 4lug front, until i can make room to park the leganus and the trashwagon side by side for the front swap, and tranny swap, the motor will get cleaned up and the leak fixed, better carb, till i get a turbo motor(87 gl-10 turbo with carbbed spfi motor) hopefully i can figure up something new that hasnt been tried yet, the 23 spline idea would let you do this to non turbo 5spds and dual ranges, ultimately for ea81 vehicles such as the TrashWagon 5 (full ea82 motor/driveline and suspension 2wd to 4wd conversion)