MilesFox

its possible to bleed the brakes by the line if you have the bleed point higher than the fluid.' dismount the caliper and turn it up on its side, with the banjo bolt on the line to the caliper facing you. crack the line from there. it will get most of the ait out of the caliper. there might be a little air in the line, but the brake will be usable. the broken bleeder can be drilled and tapped out, its not a lost cause. have the person withthe right tools and the right experience get it out. you could also change a caliper, the same amount of work. whatever is most available to you

how well do you know your books? start with making sure things like ignition timing are spot-on, and that all of your sensors are working first. i remember how you said it ran like crap, but now it runs like a scalded dog. sounds like you're making progress. but maybe a few more bugs can be worked out of it. do some research on the basics of automotive workings. too bad there are emissions. they dont have them around here. i know that my car my car with its floppy carb and 35oo idle wouldn to pass.

cool. it might not be the best way, and some would disagree with the method, but i tell you what. I had a drum on a 4x4 83 turbo wagon that wouldnt come off for nothing. i beat the spindle thru(take the axle off, or just one end) thru the bearing, that was the ONLY way to get it off. driving around with the nut off, doing slides and such, and an 80 dollar tool rental from autozone still didnt work. i got it off by beating it with a hammer(use a big hammer, dull heavy blows, not quick sharp blows) if there is enough meat on the spindle before the threads, you can grind or file away the "mushrooming" from the impact. its not hard to replace the entire trailing ar, should you mess it up. would you rather drive your car after replacing the rear trailing arm, or leave it up on jack-stands until you devise a way to get it apart? price around and consider a replacement, before you rack your brain. but if you get it apart, then more power to you!

go ask someone who has expertise in deisel/farm equipment. let me know what they say!

the parking brake is on the front wheels... be sure you have removed the axle nut first. the drum should slide off. sometimes the brake shoes will hang up, making it difficult. soak the threads i npenetrating oil. if you cant get the drum off, try removing the axle from behind with a 3 1/6 drift punch. then you can beat the spindle thru with a hammer. you risk damaging the thread on the spindle. thread on the avle nut upside down so its flush with the spindle. use a block of wood. you can replace the spindle if its damaged. if that dont do it, replace the whole trailing arm as one unit.

the gm thermostat is 54mm

someone here on the board once suggested tractor hydraulic fluid, as it is designed to withstand high pressure, and some tractors use the transmission as the hydraulic reservoir.

make sure you got a spare!!!

i had a spectrum that never warmed up. i put cardboard in front of the radiator and it would warm up a little. but sometimes it would want to get hot in city driving, so i would get out and slide the cardboard over to expose some of the radiator.

actually, now that i have re-read your post, being a 4wd, it should have the ea81 motor. you can tell by looking for the letters EA81 cast on the top front of the motor, lust to the right of the seam down the middle. your rear end parts will interchange with any ea81 wagon, hatch, or brat. its possible the rear brakes fell apart. it may be easier or more cost efficient to swap the whole rear trailing arm as a whole. ea82 disc brakes will bolt up the same, if the brake are shot, give that a consideration. if ea81 parts are hard to come by, an ea82 rear trailing arm will fit with slight mods. also, ea82 drum brakes, which are slightly larger, will swap also. try and get the drum off and report back with your findings

the 2 round headlights for 85 and up means you have the STD model. if you go to the parts counter, for 87, hatchback will come up(ea82 3-door) and STD will come up for what you have. i am not sure if you have the vented or solid brake rotors, but other than that, any parts for 8's wagons and brats will fit. your motor ids the "fat case" ea71 1600, which will share parts with the ea81 1800. it also has the bigger ea81 valves in the ea71 head. the starter is also on the side, which means that it also has the ea81 bellhousing, which will also accept an ea81 or ea82 motor, or, the existing motor will bolt up to any 2wd, 4wd, ea81 and ea82 transmission

if the bellhousing on the tranny doesnt fit the ea81, you may be able to swap the bellhousing from the ea71 to the ea81. i am not sure about the 78 model, but i know the later model ea71 will swap. can anyone back me on this???

if you have an air bubble flaoting around in the thermostat housing, the thermostat will never warm up to opening. check the fluid level while idling, and squeeze the top radiator hose. that would be the first thing to start with.

check your email

does it have the same coil resistor assembly in the same location as that of an ea82?

well, i made a 2-door wagon, using hatch doors. i had a sunroof from an ea81 on trashwagon 4, i had to cut a hole in the roof. to do the t-top swao, its really important to know WHERE to make your cuts, and see what kind of supports it has behind it. i would recommend taking the headliners out of boththe car and the brat, and compare differences, you can use holes and such as a reference to make it fit. if you took the time to drill out any spot welds, you can get it to fit as it would from the factory. the difficult part would be the welding. sheetmetal welding can be tricky. start off with tack welds about an inch apart. each time around, make your next tack right next to the last round's. dont let it get too hot, as it may distort the metal. make some practice welds on something else if you need to build your experience/skills for such a weld

the drilling of the crossmember is not necessary. let it be noted that also, the motor mounts between ea81 and ea82 will swap out with eachother. on our glf, and Tom's Brat, the flyeheel holes have been drilled out to accept the ea82 fltwheel bolts you can also use an ea82 flywheel and pressure plate, with the ea81 disc, as long as the throwout bearing isnt the small one(2wd 5 spd) the bottom radiator hose will have to be fanagled to fit an ea81 radiator, but on tom's brat for example, has an ea82 radiator, the holes for the top mounts will have to be drilled into the ea81 core support. an ea81 manifold woll fit, but on carter/wever models, you will have to make a dent in the power steering reservoir for the solenoud on the fromt of hte carb. throttle cable swii swap between ea81 and ea82, its best to use the throttle cable for the intake setup that you use when swapping an ea82 into an ea81 body, any 85 and 86 distributor will be compatible with any 83 and up ea81 ignition systems. for those models with voltage regulators, the VR can be eliminated with the ea82 distributor. when using a hitachi carb from an ea82, you must use the ea82 airbox(black) because the top af the carb is larger. but other than that, they are the same as ea81(blue) and all the connections fit the same, and the same air filters and tops will fit either one. on my particular setup. i use the ea82 battery cavles, and installed the battery opposite, which would be tha same as ea82 setup. i also relocated the coil to be on the distributor side, and spliced the coil's original connectors to wire that runs along the firewallto meet the coil's new location

the hill holder will have to be unbolted and relocated back an inch or two. you will also have to bend the brtake lines a little. you can swap out the master cylinder for one from an automatic-it will give more distributor clearance. you can also remove the distributor when pulling/dropping the engine, it will help get around the master cylinder. you can loosen the motor mounts from the motor so they wiggle, and that gives enough play to fit the studs thru the crossmember.

is the little yellow wire connected? you can always get a mechanical gauge for about 10-15 bucks, your most sure bet with accuracy. sometimes the stock gauge can go out of whack

the one time i thought i had a bad driveshaft, the wheel fell off! was loose lug nuts, i checked the wrong side! anyway, i had to drive 45 miles on the rim, because i had no spare jack the car up again, and try to wiggle the tire side to side, it may be a wheel bearing.

glad to see the washer idea works on a 2nd application! i have never tried it myself:D

35oo at 55 sounds like you may have a 3.9 final gear. most automatics have a 3.7, which will give you about 3500 at 60-65mph. but the auto wagon we have is a 3.9, which will ultimately be better in snow and off road. to find out what gear you have, take a pek under the rear of the car and find the rear differential. there should be a shiny sticker that has the part number, and it will say the gear ratio plain as day. report back with your findings!

Hello from Butler, IN. Nice to see someone who is within a hop skip, and a jump! First of all, i would like to introduce myself, and our local Subaru Alliance! We started here in Butler(i'm sure you know where that is!) Anyway, we have a good collection of subarus, from 5speed wagons to the RX, a legacy, impreza, and an 03 legacy! We have lso lifted, swapped motors, and converted 2wd auto to 4wd automatics. You picked a good place to have a subaru. we have lots of parts, too! and on this board, Tomrhere, 86subaru, and 1ABAJA all are in the know of eachother personally, and we meet and swap parts often. now, to answer your question, the automatic in your 85 is a 3spd. what commonly happens with the 3 spd autos(2wd and 4wd) is the governor shaft goes out, by either getting clogged up, or the gear wearing sown. I'll bet your trans is starting off in 2nd gear. now the 3500 rpm at crues is normal, in fact, 3500 rpm is about the most efficient rpm for the subaru motor. to access the governor shaft, take a peek under the hood. on the passenger side of the transmission, just above the axle, there is a dome shaped cap on the side, held on by 3 10mm bolts. you can remove that, and there is the governor shaft. the shaft pulls out somewhat like a distributor does, you can pull it and clean it up with carb cleaner and such, and check the gear. if the gear is bad, it will have an "apple core" appearence to it. if the gear does prove to be bad, dont worry. dont worry because we can get you one from our parts we have already! good luck trying to find one at the junk yard, because soobs are VERY RARE around these parts (but if you do know of any, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!) if the gear checks out to be good, it just goes back in till the gear meshes, it doesnt have to line up or be in time with anything suppose if you can find a 4wd manual transmission, it wouldnt be very difficult to swap one in. it would install in a day's time with no modifications! send me an email, milesfox@yahoo.com and i will get with you about parts that you may need!

he said the zoloft bunny.... you can go for a ride, delivering pizzas in a trashwagon6, a trashwagon 6!

tell me about it.... welcome to the board. this is the most comprehensive collaboration of collective subaru information anywhere on the internet!