MilesFox

pull the governor shaft and inspect it for the gear being stripped, and clean it out while its out for good measure. usually trans that dont shift right have a clogged governor

i had an ea81 carter/weber intake on my spfi block in my turbo wagon. , but i had to eliminate the egr for it to fit. with that setup, i had to mahe a dent in the ps reservoir for this little solenoid... hitachis fit, too. as far as being the right width, and the ports match, it will fit perfectly if the intake is from an old school ea71, it will be too narrow. but if it goes to an ea81, then for sure it will fit on an ea82

could be the rear seal, also, you wont see it, look around where the the motor meets the trans from underneath. is the oil pan oily? after a good many miles, the pil pan bolts will become loose, as the gasket shrinks over time. go around and tighten those up, too

ok, i assumed ea82. while ea82 pumps are t-belt driven, ea81 pumps drive from the cam , from the inside

keep in mind about the coolant temp sensor, as it will have some input while its warm

the intake i installed either has it stuck open(intake has been in storage for a while) or its just missing. it worked the other day in 50 degree weather, but no that its 30 degrees i have no good heat. i put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator in front of the clutch fan, and that seemed to help. i'll know if my car is getting too warm if the heat gets too hot.

here you go, this album has pics of the trashwagon at wcss5 http://usmb.net/gallery/albup27 in the main album, ther eis a shot of the 2-door, http://usmb.net/gallery/albun92/subaru2door and a few of trashwagon6. of these, pick which ones would be best! have all of them on the same page!

i believe the turbo ea81 crossmember is different because of the exhaust syste. you may be able to modify the crossmember to fit around the ea81t motor, but if you had to mount the motor highet like 78turbobrat did, you wouldn thave to go as high the main difference between ea81t and ea82t is the ea81 is pushrods, and ea82 is ohc(timing belts) i think the ea82 is 30 inches, and an ea81 body has 32 inches at its narrowest 31 inches is a safe assumption for measurement. if you take all the plastic yiming belt covers off the ea82 motor, that will take a good 1 1/2 inches off the widest parts the other part that would be too wide is where the dist mounts. the dist has 2 bolts holding it on, so you can cut off the side mount and that will help give you room, too. that is probably where you *MIGHT* have to cut the framerail. i would thik an ea82(t) would fit in the 78 brat the same as an ea82 would fit in a LIFTED ea81 body. on my 83 trashwagon5, i had a 6 inch lift when i installed the ea82, i had to cut the frameraim mostly on the driver side to clear the cam cover, and cut 1/2 inch off the t-belt covers, leaving the side of the cam pulley exposed. but i took the lift out, and everything fits just right(proving that no framerail mods need done to fit ea82 in ea81 UNLIFTED, like if tomrhere's gen2 brat, also. but my last 3 ea82 motors i have run with open timing belts, never had reliability issues, and it makes servicing t-belts, oil pumps WAY easier, like a 4 hour job taking 20 minutes easier

well, i am about to put xt6 5 lugs adn suspension parts, full time 5spd in my already carbbed spfi turbo wagon. just this last weekend, we put an xt rear trailing arm/disc brake/swaybar in a 5spd wagon, and i have a 2wd axle with the 27spline turbo doj in my ride with the xt knuckle...................

you can just get the "mickey mouse o'ring" and be just fine. you can get a whole kit, which comes with the mickey mouse, a round o-ring, and a shaft seal. bumps themselves dont generally go bad, bieng a trichoidial design. very simple and not complex

look for a screw on the side. if its not there, give it a good yank, may have to grab onto it with pliers. dont take the screw out of the top, because that holds the distributor shaft together!

that idea will work as long as the ea82 clutch disc will fit in between. (see 5spd conversion) the motor and trans combo will be the same ide as a 5spd conversion in an ea81, but you're in an ea82 body and if the car was not carbbed to begin with, you WILL have to swap in a carb fuel pump. the inlet side will have a fatter hose, but if you clamp it down with a good hose calmp, it will hold. otherwise you will need a reducer. you will need to wire your pump to a manual switch, or to the +terminal on the coil, because the optical dist is not there to to send the signal to the ecu to kick on the fuel pump. the wire with the strip will be + on the pump. i run a wire from under the hood to a switch, and run from the switch down to under the center console. if you take the seat up, and the center console out, you can run the wire under the carpet just behind the parking brake lever, and it will come out under the seat. you can then feed your wire thru the brake or fuel line grommet to the pump. the other wire is cround, i rin it up thru the grommet and ground it to the seat belt bolt the flywheel idea will work, i have done it. it wont get off center, and the bolts will hold it torqued to the crank. but if you keep the ea81 flywheel, make certain that the ea82 clutch disc fits in the ea81 flywheel and pressure plate, and make sure the ea82 throwout bearing works with the ea81 pressure plate. or see if an ea81 throwout will fit on the ea82 trans

i guess you have to upload it to subaru junkie, and then he puts it up. once i am done with my website, i am going to upload it as one big zip file. bit i got LOTS of megs!

you might have to take the positive battery cable off to get the bolt out all the way. there is a small wire that clips to the back of the starter. the ground wire connects to a metal piece thet fits thrut he bolt, dont forget to put the bolt thru it when it goes back together. the top of the starter fits between the trans and the pitch bar bracket. take that side out and towards the side to get it out. once out, you will notice a stud. when putting the starter in, put the stud end on first, and rotate the starter body towards the trans to get the top part between the trans and the bracket. put the ground cable on the bolt, and the n put the bolt thru. then put on the positive cable and its boot.

we bled the x pattern the first time, but the parking brake was on(but no air in the front). we bled the BACK again, no difference. but we disconnected the brake lines to swap, and the brake lines from the body dripped out into a bucket. i didnt think of bleeding the master cylinder at the time, but that sounds like it. what it needs is a bench bleed. Jim, ask autozone about a brake bleeder kit. it comes with some clear plastic tubing and i think a plastic jar. not only will that bleed it properly, but it will flush out all that 180,000 mile old brpwn brake fluid! that is something that can be done in the garage(witht he jar, of course) if i were to come down again, but thhe weather being cold. it wont make a mess if you're careful. the neighbor guy might know how to bleed brakes if he can help you if i dont come anytime soon.

i used a gm thermostat, but i had to drill a hole for the air bubble passage. i have seen generic k-maty thermos that dont have a hole either. if you use eftermarket, drill a hole. if you wanted to drain the motor completely, there are drain plugs on the bottom of the heads. 14mm bolts. the passenger one can be gotten easy, but the driver side has the frame in the way, unless you get a box end in there. all you nave to do is turn the petcock and drain a little, or pull the top hose. i drained the radiator itself to change the intake, and the water level is JUST below the ports

yeah, the coil and tach will work the same. all you have to do is connect the ea81 dist to the coil, leave everything else there. the digi dash will still work for tach, but temp and oil pressure connect THRU the mpfi intake harness, so you will have to find which pin on the connector is for the temp/oil. the digi dash has no iol press. ga. to begin with, may as well go mechanical ga. the motor mounts will fit the same. the ea82 flywheel has bigger holes, but he flywheel will still center on the crank, and the bolt pattern is the same. you will have to grind away the bottom of the ngine bellhousing to clear the flywheel teeth, about 1/4 inch n each side on the bottom the turbo's throttle cable will work, but you will have to mkae a throttle cable bracket. i ised an old throttle bracket and twisted and bent it up to fit on the pitch bar bracket bolts, or on the bellhousing thru-bolt. i have had a carter/weber from an ea81, and now have a hitach i in my 87 turbo wagon with spfi block and carburetor the ea82 water pump will fit on the ea81, will let you use the radiator hose water pipe. also, ise the ea82 top water pipe the one that goes to the heater hose. the ea82 ps pump will fit also, but you may need to modify the bracketry to fot past the distributor. i am saying all this will physically fit, but you will have to be creative for it to WORK. i have done it once to an 88 dl sedan, so i know what i say, buy i had to mess with it to GET it to work, it wont just work out of the box, so to speak but the ea82 water pump will have the pulley spaced different. you can get it to line up to the crank, but the alternator wii need to come forward, or find an alt with the 2 groove non-ac pulley. all of the ea81 motor together how it was will work. see of you can find the power steering pump from an ea81T as it will be like an ea82. the radiator hose may need modification to fit on the lower side

subaHAULic:drunk:

so are you going to compile this and do a write up? i have a secret web project myself..........................

what i meant is the tire spinning. you have to hit the brake. the launch i mention is after you let off the gas. i pilled down a 200 ft stretch of raod with my 205/55 16's on the trashwagon. spun to the top of 3rd on snow), let off the gas for the stop sign, damn near ran the stop sign when the car launed as the wheels slowed down and hooked up, hooking up at an rotating speed to the equivalent of the top of 2nd gear. might as well pull up to a stop sign, and do a clutch drop and see if i can stop before i pass it.

yup, it worked for both these guys, per my suggestion! lets see it work a 3rd time. then list about 3 bucks in washers, and call it "Miles Fox's Kit" i should go get a patent right now

its a silicone hose, so replace it with silicone. its a good idea to replace the water hose off the turbo, as they can blow out. i put jim's turbo motor together, got the whole car with blown headgaskets, never seenit run. diring the build i suggested replacing the hose, but we didnt have the right size. and then it blew out on the maiden voyage. replace those hoses in one shot as preventative maintenance!

mine is spelled with a "k"

if the single range is from a NA, it will work with the axles. if its from a turbo, you will need turbo axles, wont fit on an ea81. but the doj(at least from mine) will fit ona 2wd axle, so the doj will most likely fit an ea81 axle(if the doj is same diameter) i am under the impression that the single range trans used the same driveshaft as dual range, and rx trans. so the driveshaft mod would apply. the turbo 5spd is 3.7 final gear. i would assume the na is also, but i know that 3.7 is turbo specific oh, i meant turbo axles as in ea82, 27(or is it 29) splines (the bigger one) the auto in the ea81t has the same spline as normal trannies, axles will fit a 5spd d/r. wed 5spd, auto, and 4wd auto, and i believe non turbo 5spd single range. do you have a 5spd single range? once i get my xt6 trans, i will; come off my 5spd, with the DOJ to them. but i need my driveshaft. we can deal as long as we an figue a way to get it there, or get you here!

i put a carb on my throw-together just bought a car with no motor. it backfired didnt run right. by the 3rd carb, i turned the disty and it ran like it was supposd to. advance the timing by turning the dist slightly to the RIGHT, se if it idles up a little. drive it around. tweak the timing until it seems to run the bedt. just keep a 10mm socket handy. if it were a vacuum leak, it would want to idle faster. see if the idle changes when you hit the brake pedal. that will help a little in determining a vacuum problem. make sure al the connections around the air cleaner are connected, there is one underneath in the back of the air cleaner that goes doen to the framerail under the master cylinder. there are 2 on the front, one can come off easily if the aorbox is moved for any reason. carb toiming should be 8deg BTDC, test timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the hose plugged.