MilesFox

however it goes, keep me posted. maybe you can swap in a different master cylinder to fit around things. (or go newer) i think a good portion of gen 2 parts will fit, like struts and bumpers and such

well it' sounding like the ea81 crossmember fots in a gen 1 body, so if that's true, then the turbo crossmember will fit as well

you can also pop a ball joint by jacking up on the stud that pokes thru, jack it up till it loads the suspension a little, and tap the lower control arm with a hammer. you can thread the nut on backward to protect the thread. you can use a long bar or a 2x4 to push the lower control arm down away from the ball joint. the top of the ball joint fits into the knuckle, clamped in by a 14mm bolt. you can remove that end first if you chose to do so

the RX will do that. the fan wont come on til the car has been on a while

keep an eye on the ATF level, and maybe change the front diff oil ever so often. ither that or spend $$$ to have it fixed, or another auto that is hopefully in good shape. as long as you dont let her run dry. and atf in the diff shouldnt hurt anything, if the leak is slow enough, you can keep it in check. my .02 but maybe you can consider a 5spd swap!

its the ea81's that have 2 filters. all of the fuel injected has the big canister filter up front only, including ea81t

3/16 sounds too big. i have seen pulleys on spfi and carbbed that dont have the hole for such a pin, and the pulley tightens on. the turnbo pulleys i see look lile thay have a balancer, wheras spfi and carb pulleys do not. if you knew what to line it to for the balancer's sake, then a pin would not really be necessary. my .02

so if the crossmember swaps, then i am in luck. because the parts car is an 81 glf. but we will be using the 78's ea71 with late model fat case ea71 heads, and the ea81 bellhousing. if tht motor idea doesnt work, we're out of lick, the glf having an ea82

maybe the fact its from an xt didnt let the mounts line up. bu ti do know the trans mounts are the same, as we put a 2wd auto in place of a bas 4wd auto in a turbo xt

i would say that a cracked head is less likely to run than just a bad head gasket. my turbo cracked a head, and before doing so, it would expell white steam out the exhust, leaking out the exhaust port. do you have any suspicious smoke coming out the tailpipe?

sorry to hijack, i have fitted na ea82 cross pipe on a regular ea81. i believe that the ea81 pipe is pretty much the same, but not as big around tow to add to the question, does it clear the front crossmember?

yeah, i know what you mean. the one from a 2wd hatch was too fat for my ea81t. but i dont know why there are 2 shaft sizes?

I have re-headed motors, 2 of which were deadbeat-non runners. after start-up, the lifters would be rather loud. but after about 10-15 minute of running, the noise went away. the lefters will be dry from either sitting or a re-build. but the times i had prominent lifter noise, it went away. its common for a subaru to have liter noise, its more of an annoyance issue rather than an mechanical issuu. i have heard them sound like a rod knock until they start to quiet down. take her for a run and see if that fixed it!

yer talking about the pin in the pulley? it is exclusive to turbo pulleys from what i have seen. i line it up to the square notch fro the woodruff key. it doesnt have anything to do with timing, except for xt models, which it has a mark on the front. the woodruff key is either in-line with the 3 marks on the flywheel, or 180 deg from the marks. i cant remember, but its one or the other if the pin is absent, it should be no deal. as long as the bolt is torqued properly, as non-turbos dont have the pin that you describe

i'll pass the info to robert, the guy who owns it. he has dealt over the internet before. i'll try to get him to come back to the board

what about the wiring harnesses between any of them?

check the knock sensor. the hayned book describes it as "tap the ngine case with w wrench, and see if the idle changes" be careful of the connector, as i have seen the crack on ea82's

yo i just thought of something. it sounds like a vacuum leak with the hight idle. i would speculate because i remember from my ea81t 5spd had an automatic. there is a small dooker straight behind the intake mounted by the bitch bar bracket. it (WENT) to the automatic, no now it needs plugged off. its real tiny, just plug it off

yo! i couldnt buy an ea81 t in my area. the one i had was gone to hell when i got it. but i would go thru the hassle of puttin one together(again). check to see if the oxygen sensor is working. the california models have 3 wires, and the others have one wire. you can get a generic bosch unit for way cheaper than an oe unit, and clamp the existing wire to the new o2 sensor. get a volt/ohm meter. test the resistance values when cold and hot, and determine it works properly. do the same for other sensors as well. the haynes book has a general reference for volts and resistance for trouble-shooting.

so you got that mutha runnin! i think its the same one that was for service at auburn undercare. i remember the 5spd. yup, the parts are spoken for, this was the butler xt-6. i referred it to tom, after being out bid on ebay for an xt, who took the cheap price. tom and i settle up for the parts both way. i was already looking for xt6 parts for trashwagon for the 5-lug i get the trans and suspension parts. axles and diff, driveshaft. (tom, did you get the trunk open, was there the rim for that donut on the back?) tom gets the motor and clutch parts, ecu, and interior/extereior

it should be good to go. at least you can drive. bleed the brake opposite in back, too. being a cross-diagonal brake system. when working bleeders loose, guve just a little torque to move it. work it back and forthe a few times before doing the bleeding procedure. also when cracking the bleeders, tap on the wrench with another wrench to help "impact it off" , because if you use too much torque all at once, you will twist the bleeder faster than the threads will let go.

on an 87 TURBO, the ecu uses a crank angle sensor. on the 85 and 86, it uses a seperate knock control unit. was there an mpfi non turbo for 85, and 86? and how similar or dissimilar would the ignition system be to turbos of the same year, or the 87 up mpfi system?

i dont think blending it down would be any different than mixing in ATF. ATF(in power steering systems) works similarly to hydraulic systems, so if tractor fluis is thicker........ i dont think it would hurt to try using it in the same manner as using ATF

although the tractor fluid can withstand the pressures, but maybe it wont hold up to high speed, flying off gears and such. what about temp differences between transmissions and hractor hydraulics? maybe a blend of tractor fluid to regular gear oil, and in like the mmo treatment for motor oil?