MilesFox

i find the haynes book quite comprehensive. but its worded in funny british terms. but if you read the text you'll be alright!

you can replace only the clutch disc if you choose to do so. but having the motor out, you will want to check out the throwout bearing(on the clutch fork) and the pilot bearing(in the center of the flywheel. you will also want to inspect the pressure plate for warped fins or a grooved surface. if everything checks out ok, you can replace the clutch disc, but you will want to at least scuff up the flywheel by sanding it down or using an abrasive sanding pad for use with a drill or the like. if there are grooves in the flywheel, you will want to have it resurfaced like that of a brake rotor. if the pressure plate is grooved, you might as well replace it. clutch discs are around 60 bucks, throwout bearings around 40 bucks. you can get the whole clutch kit, it comes with the pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing, as well as pilot bearing and clutch centering tool. that will be around 140 bucks. i am quoting these prices from my experiences at napa. just make sure they know what specific vehicle and transmission to get for, because its too easy for the parts counter to get the wrong parts but first things first, make sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly it has been argued to wether to pull the transmission, or to pull the motor to do the clutch. i myself prefer to pull the motor, and that gives you the opportunity to replace seals and timing belts and such.

what kind of lugnuts are you using. i would suggest 21mm if you dont have them now(at least for chevy rim) on the chev rim, the 19mm stuck nuts wanted to pull thru the holes when torqued down. 21mm all around made a world of difference as far as vibration issues were concerned

if you liik at the top of the carb, you will see a little lever that pushes down on a "plunger" i think it can be replaced without removing the carb. you will have to take the top of the carb off, but that doesnt risk any sealing or risk creating vacuum leaks. check the parts counter for "accelerator pump" and see what they give you. shouldnt be too hard to do. i had the top of a carb off and back on, no new gasket, no silicone, no problem. just be careful not to booger the screws, some of the can be tricky

enjoy the rubber floor mat!

why not stack some washers on the crossmember bolts to drop the tranny down a couple mm. the auto is a fat-rump roast, much heftier than the 5spd. i cut up the tunnel for the 5spd in the trashwagon. i believe i showed it to matt, to give an idea of what cutting looks like. tell 'em GD. the washers, the washers!

its a pair of 8 inch woofers and an amp mountsd to the ceiling. the idea originated from having the amp on the cailings of both my 79 pinto and 80 mercury bobcat, but the soob was the first to get speakers on the ceiling. the name derives from a pic of an amc wagon i saw on the internet. i had a picture on the wcss site, but i think its down right now ?

trashwagon lives on. at least someone had a use for it. i cant complain, because i scored a new carpet on the way out! i can always get another mat. does dante know its from the trashwagon? let him know that mat has some history behind it!

speaking of pintos, and trashwagons for that matter, my 79 pinto TrashWagon 3 actually had a 4 gallon jug and a garden hose for a gas tank, because the tank's straps broke over a railroad. ha, what do you know, i learned something, hence trashwagon 5 to the wcss. as far as moving the tank to the inside of the car, the only thing i wouldnt like about it is it takes up yout cargo space. what i DO like about the idea would to be an AUXILLIARY tank, not a relocation. trashwagon 5 on the way to wcss had 3 5 gallon jugs in back, all connected to a tap fitted to the tanks drain plug. vary simple in hook up, but we had catastrophic gas tank failures on the way out west ("Folks, dont use a rusted out 20 year old gas tank from a car that sat for 10 years, and install it the day before a 2300 mile trip") other than the gas tank going to hell, the system worked, drove from indiana/ohio border to minnesota/wsconsin border before considering stopping for gas. since the gas tank was the lowest to gravity, the fuel gauge rep[resented all 27 gallond of fuel. and to answer your question about smoking, we smoked the whole way there, in the back seat, with ambient leakage(outside the car) and myself personally soaked in gas after the rupture and recovery attempt in south dakota.

we did the heads on a turbo motor. got it running from being a deadbeat car. it ticked rather loud when it first started, but the noise went away completely after she warmed up. sometimes soobs will do that, its normal as far as what to expect, and its not really a machanical issue, but more of a convenience/annoyance issue. if the car has sat, drive it around and put a few miles on it before you come to your final conclusions

does it cut out momentarily as soon as you hit the gas? it could be the accelerator pump on the carb, seal dryrotted or the like. what it does is sqiurt a shot of gas into the carb until airflow can get the rest of the fuel moving(the atomization effect, burnoulli's principle) if its not working, you get a shot of just air, thus the motor wanting to stall, right before the fuel starts to flow and get it going. how is general driveablility other than that?

the soob dealer has boots w/clamps for about 12 bucks each. you will have to remove the axle following standard axle replacement procedure. once the axle is out, remove the boot from the inner end (DOJ). pop out the circlip, and pull away the axle from the doj. use a pick or a small screwdriver to remove the bearings. ince the bearings are out, the race will come away. pay attention to the orientation of the race fpr re-assembly. there will be the center of the bearing assembly on the end of the splined(axle) shaft. there will be a snap-ring clip there, it can be picked out with skillfil hands, or go get a set of ring pluers to remove it. pull the center of the race off the axle. now you can remove the inner boot, then the outer. reassembly is reverse order. you may need a special tool for the band clamps depending on the style you use. it can be done as long as you know what to expect, and most importantly, having the proper tools.

the dual range 5spd has a 3.9 gear. the single range and automatics have a 3.7 gear. the rx has a 3.7 gear. the lsd comes as a 3.7 gear, but the gears can be changed out and the lsd can be converted to a 3.9 gear, for use with a dual range transmission. you will have to make a mount for the carrier bearing of the driveshaft. you will have to drill holes and install long bolts for the rear diff hanger, but the holes are already stamped in the fram(you will see once you take a look) the shifter will mount and match the hole, and all the MT center console will swap over and appear stock. if the car is automatic, you will need the transmission crossmmeber and the bolts that go with, you will remove 2 fram bolts, and the crossmember goes there. if the car is already a manual transmission(fwd), then the crossmember will not have to be changed out. you can swap the entire rear suspension assembly, you will have to disconnect some brake lines, and the main(rubber) fuel line from the tank will have to be pinched off, because it runs to a metal pipe affixed to the frame of the suspension itself the one i helped put together was a 2wd auto sedan converted to a 4wd 5spd dual range. aside from the carrier bearing and drilling the rear diff hanger holes, everything will bolt up as if it was stock

remove the kick panel from under the steering column. there are 2 green clips. plug thos in, and the fuel pump will kick on, off, on

are you talking about an aftermarket weber, or the stock carter/weber that came on soobs. my motor did the same thing, it would idle fast, diesel after its turned off, and would be a pain to start. turns out that 2 of the 4 screws that held the carb to the baseplate were loose, the whole carb would jiggle on the manifold. it is for this reason that i describe my motor as having a "floppy carb"

if your reason to remove involves an engine swap, a master cylinder from an automatic will provide more distributor clearance

the 1600 cylinder head is slightly smaller than the 1800. the combustion chambers are in the same relative spot, but the bolt pattern is a little closer than 1800. but later model 1600 hatches, like 85-89 have the ea81 bellhousing, and the larger valves from the 1800. so if your question is regarding what kind of heads to use, use heads off the 85-89 1600 hatch motors. you will be able to tell which engine to use heads from, the bellhousing has the starter on the side, rather than straight on top.

i forgot to put mine back om when i added oil.t fell off. now i have a glove shoved down in the hole.

the pump is at the back of the tranny, and that is wht there is a long shaft that comes thru the front. spin and lock as usual, the outer edge of the teeth should be flush with the outer bellhousing

will the rim fit over the caliper? it would have a better chance on an ea81 than ea82 for caliper clearance!

would an EA series strut cap swap over to the xt6/impreza style strut? if not, i would think the xt6 strut cap would swap onto an impreza/legacy strut. you would need coil spring tools tough, if you were to do it yourself..........

having oversize tires, the speedo might read 75, but the car is actually going 5-10mph faster

you cant really depreciate a 100 dollar car by painting it! paint it silver and satin black. it would look pimp. it would pay respects to both the 03 legacy and the 02 impreza! and trim it out with chrome pinstriping, and chrome reflective barrier on the bottom of the doors. and find some trim rings for them fat rump roast 15's at least if you do paint it, you'll know that you have a solit rustproof coat underneath

it threads into the back opf the piston, and is connected to the parking brake lever on the caliper. if you pull off the rubber boot you should see some of it..i think there is a pic in the haynes book

i noticed that the big hose on the turbo plenum fits exactly on a 1bbl carter/weber carb that ws originally on my ea81. the carb is on my ea82, and i hace an ea82 turbo. it gave me an idea, but i havent played around with the idea YET