MilesFox

if i did that i would get arrested!

maybe you could fit a few rides on each month, each month representing a make, year, or category of soobs. put the hatch patrol on one month, ea81's on anothe rmonth, ea82s on another month. a month for RX, a month for ea81/turbos, brat, for another, and of course July for the TrashWagon(s)! ave a little body of text either with each pic or for the whole pic, describing the type of soobs featured for that month and put odd misc soob pics for holidays, etc.

oh, i thought he said 92 loyale touring wagon. anyway, my tire suggestions are for 13 inch rims (take notes)

i dont think the xt came as carb. they were turbo, non-turbo mpfi, and xt6. carbs lasted to mid 87. torbo has been around for ea82 since 85, and the 85-86 mpfi and turbo are pretty much based off the 83-84 ea81 turbo. all 87 and up have the optical dist but the 85/86 xt turbo has the same type dist, but with a knock control unit. i'm sure the mpfi xt would have the same dist, but no knock unit. i have seen an 86 spfi, i dont recall the dist, but all other spfi has the optical type.

i bet the guy in the ford felt like a jack. but i'm sure he appreciated it! i ran pizza on fort wayne when it snowed all at once on new years 99. i pulled a taurus out of a driveway, a van off the side of the road, and a camaro out of an alley, after the chevy truck gave up. the dude crapped when i rolled up ina little compact wagon. then he crapped again when i actually pulled him out. then he literally crapped himself when he saw the 50 foot streak of tranny fluid from my automatic. he ordered a pizza with a credit card and gave me a 30 dollar tip. make it a point to have yout towstraps, guys! its supposed to snow monday. i scored a 2wd axle with a bad boot for working on jim's soobs. all i need is a boot, and i will swap my doj to it and have some fun:santa:

and if you dont return it, its paid for. you can have the option to keep the tool, for what you put down for the deposit. we got a band clamp tool for 10 bucks, and decided to keep it. after asking the auto-zone dude first, of course!

taller, skinnier tires will work the best in snow. try a 175/70-75 (auto 3.7 gear) or 185/70 or 75 series(if its a 5spd dual range 3.9 gear) 60's will be wider in proportion than 70 series. wider tires will want to slide around more on snow your choice of tread, but skinny for snow/mud my 2 cents

no, the xt dist will not work, being probably mpfi, having an optical disty. an 85 or 86 carb disty will work on anything(i got one on an spfi motor with a carb down in a turbo car, running off the turbo's coil, mpfi harness still there) i got an 86 dist im my ea82 powered 83 wagon. so if you cant find an 87, go with 85-86. and the internals of the 85/86 carb is the same as a lot of ea81 dists also

the calender at the carbola is still on the month before i hit the road.......its time for a new one! i didnt even know about a calender till now. count me in(the calendar!) =^x^= milesfox@yahoo.com

yo, i got some pics rounded up for you. what is your emailso i can email you from my email account? email me milesfox@yahoo.com, and i will reply with the pics. but do so ASAP, while i am here at this computer thru sunday. if not, it may have to wait, because the public library computer wont let users access cdrom, or upload(but i can haggle the librarian, and she will let me, but she has to reset the computer for administrator access, so that means their comp is open to me! so how soon do you need them put me down for july!(i'll tell yout the story email)

just swapped rear trailing arms and disc brakes fom a turbo xt to a 4wd 5spd wagon today. had to part the xt, pull the parts from the wagon. put the xt parts in the wagon, and put the wagon parts on the xt(to have wheels to put on a trailer to the junk yard) the axles were stuck on a little, but at least they came apart how i expeted them to, with my hammer technique. sure, i could have swapped only the brakes, but now the wagon has a nice fat swaybar in back! when i took the trailing arms out, i popped the axle pin off first, but the axle came away from the diff last. when going back together, i would mount the shock bolt first. that would give me enough play to put the axle to the diff, install pin. then the rest goes together. when i put my turbo motor together, i used a can of anti seize that was older than i was. a little pasty, but it works the same!

when squeezing the hydraulic tensioner, go slowly so you dont blow it out. put it in a vise and give it a crank till it binds a little, then let it bleed down. half turn, wait a second, half turn, wait a second, you get the idea. i waspassing a semi in my ea82 powered 83 wagon, and it up and quit running. i pulled over at a hog farm to take advantage of the flood light and have a peek. i rin my timing belts exposed, no plastic covers. i could see that both ebelts were there. it confused me, so i cranked the starter from under the hood. i could see the crank turning, but not the belts. it had stripped off likr 6 teeth, some were half peeled away, and the others i could pik off with my finger. abut 45 minutes later, i was on my way with a spare belt in the trunk(i had a spare motor i just picked up, too. not exactly the best scenario to be in going 100 mile home out of state on a suspended liense, in the same county i was arrested for driving while suspended on the way there the day before........ oh, the 93 impreza here in town is a 1.8 ej motor. 2wd 5spd and as for thread locker on tensioner pulleys, u have had a pulley walk out enough to snap the bolt, because it was put togethe 1000 miles ago with anti seize. this happened 15 miles into a 2300 mile raod trip. then the axle broke in wisconsin. i still made it after my gas tank failed, but i got arrested on the way back but i got my license now.....

it would be easier to replace the diff itself. but sometimes the axles will seize to the stubs. a good couple of whacks with a hammer will get the doj off the diff. if you cant get ti off that way, pull the rear trailing arms, diff and axles all at once(or the whole suspension, but watch the fuel line, it must be pinched off, unless you want a full tank on the floor) by having the whole thing out, it makes it easier to swing a 3 lb hammer. if you can get one with the one end bevelled, that would be better. rotate the axle every few whacks. if you do get it off, put a good amount of anti-seize on the stubs. moisture gets in thru the insm and the splines rust up/ i would recommend getting the axles off the diff and/or hubs, and put anti-seize on them, for the next time you have to service the diff/axles

bumpity bumpity:banana: :wave:

the shifter itself fits into a ball joint, sometimes they pop out. when mine pops out, i center it up, and guve agood WHACK! with the palm of my hand to pop it back in. but i dont have a center console....... i dont know of any replacement parts, other than the junkyard i have installed a 5spd in my automatic sedan, the shifter was all worn out. i used some 3/8 hose for the bushings, worked rather well.

it looks like the 87 hatch motor i had, it was the "fat case" as its called. we have a motor out of a 78 brat that has the water cross-pipe that bolts to the block under the intake. the fat case looked like an ea81. so it looks like you have the late model hatch motor with the old school ea71 bellhousing. maybe that's an ea81!(but it would say on th block) what kind of intake/carb setup does it have. i just notices yesterday that the old ea71 is too narrow for ea81 and ea82 intakes, but the hatch motor had an ea81 intake i remembered using a water pump off the hatch motor for my ea81, before i knwe of the fat case difference from the older style. before then, i assumed that all ea71 and ea81 parts interchanged. but if that is a fat case ea71, with the old ea71 bellhousing, then that proves to me that i can use my ea81 with the old ea71 bellhousing in the 78 brat!

could the oil return hose have puked?

the best deal that i know of is napa. head gaskets are about 26 bucks a piece. do the valve seals if the heads are cooked. but first, get a compression gauge and take a compression reading. this will tell a lot about what is going on before you take the heads off. and if you know what to liik for after the heads are off, you can see why/where the gaskets failed. if some spots look cleaner than others on the head,deck, pistons, thst means you were burning coolant in that spot, the coolant burning will act like "steam cleaning" causing the carbon to come off, and appear cleaner than the rest

all of the ea81(1800cc ohv[pushrods]) are of the same construction(from subaru, that i know of) although there are several aftermarket versions designed for aircraft applications. but the exception from subaru is the ea81t(turbo heads) the valve cover is shaped somewhat differently on the corner, the injectors fit in bosses on the head, and the turbo side is tapped for an oil and coolant lines. then there is the ea71(1600) from the 70's thru 84 era. from 85 and later hatch backs, the ea71 has a fatter case to accept ea81 parts(waiter pump, the case is wider to fit the ea81 intake). the heads still have the same dimensions, but it has the bigger valves and intake ports of the ea81. the set i had, i noticed it has a smaller combustion chamber than ea81 heads the compression ratio on ea81 engines is 8.5:1. the ea81 turbo is 7.7:1. i am not sure of the compression of the ea71, but i think its 9:1 or 9.5:1. you can get a 9:5:1 compression by using the pistons from an ea71 in an ea81(ask qman for the specifics) the ea82 (1800cc, ohc [timing belts]) has pretty much the same design on carb and spfi(single port) the only reql difference is the fittings for emissions. the turbo and mpfi(xt models) use a dual port design, they are of the same construction, but the turbo has the oil and coolant line fittings. the carb models have 8.5:1, the spfi has 9.5:1 the turbos have 7.7:1 compression ratios. there may be differences between years though, and there are a few different cam profiles. and there is the chart mentioned for the turbo heads. i think there was may be different designs for japanese models, but i dont know. this is the extent i know of, some of it could stand to be corrected, but i hope it helps. other board members may know more specifically about what i have mentioned

you have to wedge the screwdriver between the bumper and the metal front trim under the light. if you decide to remove the headlight(for other reasons) there are 4 10mm nuts on studs, need deep socket. the one by the battery is fairly easy, but if you remove the battery first. but the other side is behind the ac dryer(if so equipped) its kind of a pain to remove them, though stick a long screwdriver in there. i had to replace a broken headlight from collision damage. the glass part was removed from the light frame, i tightened the screw all the way before installing it. but the little plastic thing was broke, and turned with the screw. so i have a piece of radiator hose behind the light for now....(and its not my car):wave: but the motro comes out to do the clutch and pil pump seal(again), so i will take advantage of the opportunity to tweak the light some more

that ticking sound you describe sounds like pinging. if you kept driving it after that, for sure you have popped a head gasket. usually a bad head gasket will still run, but one account that i know of, being driven like you just described, it dropped a valve seat and wedged a valve open. it probably popped a gasket a while ago, and just now noticed it by gettin hot(loss of coolant). from right now, the only way to know is to take the heads off. if yer lucky, they arent cracked. but for sure you popped a head gasket. the only heads i have been known to be cracked/too bad to use are ones that have dropped a valve seat i'm sorry to hear the bad news. but dont give up on the soobs. a head gasket is something you can do yourself, sine you are alredy familiar with your soob. but use a torque wrench when going back together. i wish you good luck!

jims 88 spfi 4wd 5spd d/r wagon acts like a carb with a bad accelerator pump. when you rev it up, it makes somewhat of a "popping" noise, and has no torque. just like a vacuum leak, but it idles normally. once you get enough momentum, it drives fine, as long as you ease into the gas. if you put her down at rpm, it will stumble. i read once on the board about a solenoid that will stick open, something to do with air introduction. it has almost 200,000 miles. we have that little $100 for a spare, if that may be it. but could it be something on the throttle body? the amount of "vacuum leak" seems more than what that little component will allow. and also, could it be the brake booster. you can tell it works when the motor runs, and when you step on the brake while idling, it will make popping noise or want to stall out.

you can get the wheels to spin up, thru another gear or two, but watch out, as soon as you let off the gas, the tires will "hook up" and all that rotating mass will launch you unexpectedly

what is the deal with the floor mounted parking brake? it would be cool to take the ratcheting mechanism out, so you can stomp it on turns. that way, the left foot isnt bored:D

i had trouble replacing the ball joint on my ride, it wouldnt come out of the knuckle. so i said F*' it and replaced the whole knuckle.