MilesFox

Sorry, i read this wrong thinking 93 ej into a turbo loyale. anyway... you can swap the engine side harness all the way back to the ecu and dash. you would have to take off the passenger fender. You can do this without having to chop the wiring.

I had just landed in wisconin the month that this was posted.

Here are pcs of an ea82t in various stages of disassembly and assembly. Not in any consecutive order, but instead alphabetically by filename. This will give you an idea of what the parts look like, anyway. http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/

Do it diagonally starting with the wheel farthest from the MC, which would be the right rear. Then LF, LR, then RF I find it helps to depress the clutch pedal when pumping the brakes for the rear wheels. Good luck

If you end up removing the rear diff from its front mount, the head of the bolt is 22mm (7/8") and the nut is 19mm. A lot of the time i have resorted to pulling the diff and/or trailing arms to remobve the axles with heat, penetrant, and a 4 lb hammer

roller rocker would be considered and upgrade and gives you better options for aftermarket cams.

use the ultra grey by itself or the paper gasket that may be supplied with a seal kit.

The fact that it is turbo will allow you to swap to that frame. You will want all the wiring harness from the donor car, and an adaptor for the trans. if using the legacy trans, you will have to modify the driveshaft, and use a matcing rear diff. that or swap an ea82 5spd and use an adaptor plate

This vedeo will detail how to remove the AC components as a complete assembly without disconnecting any of the pressure lines or evacuating the refrigerant

To stop lifter tick, brew thicker coffee. Use a high caffeine blend to reduce knocking and pingin. If you burn your lips, it may be indicative of an overheating issue.

look for another hole. the single spade terminal is more underneath the thermo housing.

Brake lines usually rust out at any fitting, grommet thru the body, or plactic clips that secure them to the body. Insect all these areas. Inspect where the brake lines pass thru the body under the rear seat.

On the cam sensor side, the retainer comes off and there is an o-ring behind it. There is an o-ring on the back of the passenger side head behind circular plate. You might as well do the front seal since it is contained in the oil pump and you can do this on a bench. Loosen al your bolts with the belt still on so it can hold them still. You will want to remove the crank pulley and the cover behind it so you can line up your belt.

Sounds likely. Is the leak outside under the car or in the floorboards? Look under t he hood and observe any leaking where the heater hoses go thru the firewall. They are located just behind the starter. Has the car been serviced? It is possible there could be a crack in the fitting where the hose attaches to the heater core if they have been wiggled too roughly. Replacing the heater core requires complete removal of the dash board. This is something you could do DIY, if you can afford the downtime with the car. The only challenge is remembering where allt he plugs and screws go. but it can be accomplished with simple hand tools. You might get soaked on labor at some dealership or wherever else at shop rate, considering the work or removing the dash. It could possibly be a simple fix.

Yeah, go for it. It always seems the one you sold is the one you should have kept. Good luck with the rest of it.

COuld the spark plug wires be backwards?

Everytime i do this kind of work it always ends up being in the dead of winter. As long as all your parts are the same temperature(ambient) then there should be no issue.

general rule is to use the bolts and torque sequence for the heads you are using. Ithis is how i did on a frankenbuild 2.5 with 2.2 heads. Oil the bolts enough that it coats the threads, but not so much that is tis dripping. I just dipped the bolts in a bottle of oil and shook them off before installing them.

The harness originates from the passenger side storage hold in the rear quarter. There is a metal shield. The terminal comes through a grommet. The wire may just be pulled up into the body. You should not have to drop the tank as long as the pigtail form the sender is present. This panel is where all the vent connections go. There are 6 bolts to drop the tank. You would probably have discovered the wire you were looking for once you got to this point.

That part can be swapped with another engine. Or just take it off and repair it on the bench. Hooray for subaru being practical in design.

I find the fel-pro kits are always supplied with oem grommets. for the price go with the fel pro.

Depending on where you shop it, but there is the mickey seal, an internal o-ring, and a shaft seal. 3 parts total.

IT could possible be caused by a loose axle nut. Check that the cotter pin is present. The nut WILL back out if the WASHERS are not installed correctly. The washer is a spring washer and must be installed with the convex side towards the nut. This can cause the rear wheel bearing to become loose (4wd), or the front hubs to strip out their splines. At least the FWD rear bearings are easy to service. JAck up the wheel and give it a wiggle. If the noise was acute i would think the front axle nut is loose.

The one pictured is still better than one of my least rustiest ea81's that was original to colorado.