Hondasucks

I've been satisfied with the Duralast line from Autozone, they even have lifetime warranty brake pads (yes, when they WEAR OUT YOU GET NEW ONES!) I put a Duralast water pump on my Dodge ($36 vs over $200 from the dealer) and haven't had any problems, although it's two bolts and a pain in the arse belt to remove. Would have been a LOT easier had it not been 10 degrees out when I was changing it :-) Shucks WILL price match with the partsamerica (The lady @ the store in Albany told me that you'll always get a better price online) however you have to print the webpage out with the part and price on it in order for them to beat it.

more digging up old threads! lol it wasn't the pump drive shaft that was hanging up, the input shaft wasn't in all the way. We got it back together and it runs/drives great, no problems except when you start it, it revs up to 3,000 RPM and then drops to idle...

TAcos aren't bad, they can be converted to diesel with parts from Japan, although the Cummins is way more useful! I've wheeled mine before (92 ext cab long bed) and although it's a bit long, I had no trouble keeping up with my friends's Chevy. Also the heavy front end is nice cuz although it does have a tendency to dig, it also gets pretty good traction in snow, I spent 2 winters with it in Wyoming :-) (Also, a lot of Japanese stuff, especially Toyota, is built in the USA, with American labor...)

92 Dodge Ram 250 if I set the cruise at 55, it'll get 22MPG empty, I usually average 14-16 loaded, depending on what I'm towing, I just wish it was a 5 speed instead of a slushbox.

Most lifetime warranties on parts are only valid for the original purchaser, but it's worth a shot.

I'm in! and I can tell the wife I can park it in the bed of the Dodge when I'm not using it lol

Take your speedometer cable out and turn one end of it and make sure the other end turns, if it doesn't, you have a broken speedo cable, Same thing happened on my 91 but I didn't get bad mileage cuz mine was a 5 speed so it didn't go into limp mode.

He could have also snapped the speedo cable

3M Trim and Emblem Adhesive, you can get it at most auto body supply houses, try CarQuest. Another good one is 3M makes a double-sticky foam tape that works GREAT for sticking emblems on, I used some to reattach the 4WD logo on my 84 wagon.

I put a weber on my "Fat case" EA71, no problems, although the carb I have is a 28/36.. Has a little snappier off-idle response than the 32/36, plus it has an enrichment device instead of a choke.

Another idea is find an automatic EA71 and cut the trans tunnel out of it, the automatics were wider than the manuals, and so they had a wider tranny tunnel (Only way I was able to put the 4WD trans in my 82 sedan was cuz it was an automatic originally)

I'd just go with an EA81, use a weber with a Delta cam... Don't worry about it being a 4 speed, the 4th gear is overdrive, and there are options out there for rear end gears since the Datsun 510 used the same rear end :-)

Don't buy the Aveo, they're a rebadged Daewoo (read: C R A P)

I don;t know abotu your area, but my dealership charges $150 for a tranny flush + filter, and it's well worth it. Subaru recommends changing the filter @ 100k but that's under "normal" driving conditions, and most people fall closer to the "severe" category which is 35k if I remember correctly. I've seen Subies with 40k that the fluid is BROWN, and I've seen 'em at 100k with the original filter and fluid that have bright red fluid.... But a tranny flush is a lot cheaper than a new tranny!

There is some stuff out there called "real metal foil" (google it) that's available at most hobby shops, it comes in a 8.5x11 sheet and is cheaper than gold leaf, and comes in many different colors. Works great for re-doing chromed plastic and the like, although you did an awesome job on those emblems!

The point of E85 is not that it's cheaper (it is cheaper per gallon, but your cost per mile is about the same as gas), but that it burns cleaner than gas, and it reduces our dependence on petroleum products. I run B20 (20% biodeisel) in my truck, not cuz it's cheap (it's about 3 cents more than regular diesel) but #1 that's 20% less petroleum I use, and #2 due to the newer low sulfur diesel, it's added lubrication for my expensive injector pump. I filled my Legacy with E10 (http://www.sqbiofuels.com/retail2_fuels.htm) on Friday, didn't notice any change in fuel economy, but my fuel gauge started working again. E10 is nice since for one it's 10% alcohol, so most cars can run it, plus it acts as an octane booster, and think of how much less gasoline we'd use if all our fuel was 10% ethanol (or biodiesel)

Even w/out my discount, retail @ my dealership was 17 something...

That's why I don't wheel a Zuk :-P

360cc twin cylinder probably, or the 600cc 4 banger lol raw horesepower there!

The engine I just bought has a brass fitting JB welded into the back of it (Which the puller yanked out ), and the old motor still has the tank on it, so if you want another one, make me an offer :-) What's involved in making a WRX one work?

j2coe hit the nail on the head, remember the old analog speedos that had 55 highlighted? It's how they highlighted it on the digital speedos. I had an 83 GL-10 with the digidash and it did the same thing, except it was a red line under each digit of the speedo (Did the same thing with the tach if you exceeded 5500 rpm). I've discovered that some of the digitals topped out at 85 MPH, others went to 140

Okay so I got an EJ22T for my 91 T Leg, but the bunghole at the junkyard wanted $175 for the downpipe cuz of the cat... Will a WRX downpipe fit? He's willing to cut the cat out and give me the rest of the downpipe, and the midpipe, so I'm tempted to just take the downpipe to an exhaust shop and tell 'em to make me a downpipe for my "rally car" lol..

Lol my buddy Brian found that out on his 97 Outback Sport :-P Luckily with my discount rear mains are only like 8 bucks at the dealership Doesn't leak a drop now!

If my memory serves me, it's an EA61, 1100cc (Sad thing is it has almost as much HP as a 1600... They had an ff-1 1300G Sport that I don't think ever made it here that had a high compression 96 HP 1300 in it.. We did get the 1300G but not the sport, I think... As for the keys, it's a super long shot but take the door lock cylinders out and see if there is a code stamped into the back of one of them (Should be the driver's one but not sure) and I will see if our key cutter will recognize it... Since the ff-1 used the same key blanks as the 80s cars, they MIGHT have used the same codes for the keys.... Worth a try at least...

It's an original turbo car; the data plate on the strut tower says "EJ22Txxxx" for the engine, and it's got the notch in the crossmember for the downpipe, but yes to answer your question, mike, someone stuck a non-turbo motor in it, with none of the turbo stuff...