Hondasucks

These work great, especially on the back bolt on the EA82: Runs $33.05 from Snap-on, and worth every penny IMHO. You can see the catalog page here: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=5028&group_ID=545&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Item # is RTBM10

There used to be a guy on here named Ross, his board name was Magnificent Subaru, and he hailed from Boise, but I haven't seen hide or hair of him in a few years. He had a pretty nice EA82 coupe that Mudrat lifted and put bumpers on probably about 5 years ago now, it was pretty wicked. He even replaced the rear hatch with a snap-on tonneau cover type thing.. If anyone has any pictures of the Hatch Patrol meet in June of 2002, he was there. (Ken? Zap?)

I'll get some pics next time I'm at my mom and dad's. I just noticed you live in Roseville, I was born there lol.

It's probably a unibody up front with a stub frame in the rear, like the old Jeep Commanche. Still looks like a four door GTO with a bed to me...

Check under the dash, there is a fuse under there that is the keepalive memory power supply wire for the dash, they were disconnected at the factory so the batteries didn't die on the way over, and connected at the dealership before delivery, it's possible it's corroded or something and not sending power to the dash.

I wonder if you could use a later four speed? The four speed I had in my 87 hatch, fourth gear was overdrive. I have a gen 1 5 speed in my shed of parts... Is it possible, especially as far apart as your car is, to fab in the newer style shifter? Then you could use a 5 speed, and just drill and tap the holes in the case for the inboard brakes.

CA emissions standards are for the cars that were SOLD in CA, if you BRING it there, as long as it meets it's original, federal emissions standards, it should be ok. The reason for the difference is CA wanted the cars sold there to be cleaner, but they don't care too much about cars that get migrated there since it's such a small percentage.

And not GM I woulda at least gone with a Mopar engine, although they are more expensive than GM stuff. Or stayed Japanese and put this beast in there:

My 82 4x4 sedan when I bought it, it had a pushbutton in it, but it was wired up such that it would only crank the starter if it was in Park and the key was on. (When I switched it to a 5 speed I re-wired it so it used the original starter circuit, instead of having house wiring running to the starter!) Pushbuttons I don't consider a hack job unless it's done in a hack job manner, mine was nicely done, aside from the cheap wiring that was used, but I re-wired it (And now it has two toggle switches and a pushbutton, since the ignition key cylinder failed)

Front LSD won't work since I think the earliest that's the same as the 04 is 85, there is a thread on this. Changing the final drive is a no-go, the ring gear is removable from the differential carrier, however the pinion is part of the countershaft of teh transmission, and has gears cast into it, so you can't change it unfortunately. As for the valves, one of the critical valve train measurements is teh installed height of the valve spring retainer, and the stem height of the valve. Stem height is the distance from the spring seat in the head to the tip of the valve stem. Installed height is the distance from the spring seat to the top of the spring retainer, with the valve installed in the head. You get those two measurements correct and you should be good to go, but it's been too long since I've rebuilt a head to be 100% sure. (I'm about 88% sure) You should be able to send your cam to Delta and have them grind it, and see if they will resurface your lifters as well, since ideally with a new cam, you'll want a smooth surface for the cam to ride on, not one that's been worn by the old cam. Qman had a pretty lumpy cam in one of his Brats, I saw it at an autocross once, it sounded pretty mean! Once you get that all figured out, it's just a matter of getting the valve lash properly adjusted, and breaking the cam in (Might not be needed with a reground cam, but I am not sure, I know with a new cam you have to run it at 2500 rpm or more for 20 minutes, at least that's what I've had to do with the last 2 cams I've put in.)

Don't know if this works on all of them or not: First way is disconnect negative terminal of battery, turn key to ON, connect battery (or have key in ON position when you hook up the battery, or when you hook up the jumper cables) To turn the alarm OFF (This is how I do it on the 08s when I do a PDI, I do NOT know if it will work on an older one, but it should be in your owner's manual, if you don't have one, you can get one from Subaru.) Get in car, close all windows, doors, and hatch/trunk. Press "unlock" button on remote Turn key to ON Press and hold the "UNLOCK" side of the door lock switch, and open the driver's door within one second Keep the switch pressed for 10 seconds The new ones will beep the horn and show "AL Off" on the odometer display area, I do not know what the old ones will do, if the above will even work.

You are checking the timing with the check connectors connected, correct? I'm assuming so since you have a book... And if your car has a vacuum advance it needs to be disconnected. (Not positive, but I think 85 and 86 have a vacuum advance, 87-90 are electronic. Makes sense since I have an 86 that has a vacuum advance, and my 87 does not.)

+1 for the brat And one B in Suby, Subby (rhymes with "hubby", like short for husband) is short for submissive, i.e., whips and chains lol sorry :-P As for the slushbox being slow, those ARE very easy to convert to a manual tranny

That would work if you had shorter pushrods made, since I don't think there is enough movement in the lash adjuster to adjust all that difference out. As for the slit to the tip of the valve distance, as long as there is enough stem sticking up that the rocker tip doesn't contact the spring retainer, it's okay, but good point, you don't want it too short, that's why I wanted measurements of the valve length...

Post a pic of it, if it is a 510, parts for those are hard to find, so you might be able to sell off some of the stuff you're not going to use for the buggy. This is what a 510 wagon looks like:

Remember: Win/Lose, Tight/Loose All I know is with my AWD subies, especially the SVX, I can smoke things on wet pavement that I can't smoke on dry pavement

You only NEED the SMIII for the 08+ (maybe 07+), the SMII will do all the way back to at least the early EFI cars (Pretty sure it'll do carb cars w/ the computer) with the proper cartridge. You would need the brown cartridge, handles 98 and earlier.

72, is that a 510?

Other solution would be to connect the S terminal of the ignition to the starter directly, and completely bypass the starter interlock. It was somewhat of a sophisticated system, switches in both front seats AND in the seatbelts, and the system has to see the seat switch close BEFORE the seat belt switch, or it won't start (to prevent you from just connecting the belt and leaving it)

My 90 Legacy has almost 280k on it, and I have an 86 GL-10 Turbo sedan with 319k on it (Doesn't have the original heads though)

Measure those valves, let me know how much longer the 1300 valves are. You MIGHT be able to cut them down (You'd have to have a machine shop do it, since you'd need a valve grinder) and have them work, but I'm not sure... I have a valve grinder...

Zap Qman Mudrat (Met him before I was even on the board) NVZeno MaxximumBRAT Blownbimer kingbobdole Bratsrus Dr. RX (I think when I met him he was still Lewy80DL) Edrach Flowmaster Bajasoobnut Bratwerst Caboobaroo (I'm the reason he's even ON the board lol) McBrat Chef Tim (WCSS3!) Tex Subaru Styles Harpua I'm sure I've missed a few lol so if I left ya out, blame my brain, and all teh old oil I have to deal with at work

105k is the California spec belt, the 49 state belt interval is 90k, and they ARE interchangeable, just the CA belt is supposed to last longer.

Next time you come in, say hi :-P I work all week except wednesdays, and saturdays, and I'm the only other guy in the shop with the Subaru uniform besides Don lol, and I'm sure you know him.

It was the Prelude that had the four wheel steering (Earlier ones had a "4WS" badge) Early models had a mechanical link to the rear steering rack, later models were electronic, with an electric pump and valve body to control the rear wheels. SVXes had 4WS in Japan, on some models. The early ones had a pump to control the rear wheels, but the later ones used a passive system that changed the rear toe during cornering. I've seen a Galant with 4WS too, but they guy had the pump disconnected and the rear wheels locked straight ahead since it was so problematic. I think Lexus had a 4WS system too but I'm not sure.