Hondasucks

I was near the Oregon Dunes on the 4th of July, I was soooo tempted to put my knobby snow tires on my Legacy and get an ATV permit and go play in the sand, but I didn't want to get stuck since I wasn't with anyone who could have yanked me out lol, it did look like a lot of fun though, especially in a Subie

Actually, I'm down to just it and the 86, I sold both Imprezas and the Cressida :banana:actually bought this one with the $ from the Cressida, and the 86 is pretty much done, just needs another coat of primer and then painted... I'll get pics tomorrow hopefully, when I swing by the shop...

That is a modified SVX AT crossmember (redrilled for a 5 speed mount) should be similar, although IIRC where it attaches to the body is different. (Same trans though)

1987 GL-10 Turbo sedan, FT4WD 5 speed, 149k "bad turbo and needs brake work" is what they told me, got it from Umpqua Community College in Roseburg, they were doing sealed bids, got it for $250. Clear coat is peeling off in a few spots, and it leaks oil, but I am pretty sure that the "bad turbo" is just a vacuum line or something, since it has plenty of get up and go for having a non-working turbo, but the boost light doesn't come on, and the diff lock doesn't seem to engage, (Light doesn't come on, and I hear no "click" when I flip the switch) so I'm edging towards a vacuum problem. Cool part is when I was loading it on the car trailer, I noticed that it has an LSD and it has all the stuff for the air suspension, but it has the adjustable wagon struts in it. (I'm tempted to put air struts back in it, since I know where there is a good set...) Pics will follow once I get them...

I'll try and make it but I might end up coming up with a group from down here, not sure though... must...get...SVX...fixed...

I've had this beastie for a while, built it in 2002 out of a 2WD sedan, and a rusted out 4WD wagon. These pics were taken Labor Day of 02 up at Noonday (outside of Cottage Grove, Oregon) It hasn't seen mud in a while, I need to get it from where it's stored and get it running again. I want to put it on a Samurai frame with a 2.2 eventually...

So the manual valves actually only have two pins? EVERY valve I've swapped in has had three pins... (but different part numbers) I did NOT want to spend $180 on a new valve (and that's WITH my discount!) What do you want for it? I have a huge pile of Subaru parts...

Replace the head gaskets with OEM (make sure they are the superseded part numbers) and you won't have any problems. Also less than 100k = free head gasket replacement :-) And it's not a rampant problem, I've seen them with 200k with the original head gaskets, and no leaks, and I've seen them with 90k that are leaking.

Remove the crank pulley, carefully pry the old seal out (Use a screwdriver, or a seal remover (they aren't expensive) just be careful you don't nick the crankshaft. Take the new seal and coat the outer portion of the seal with a thin coating of silicone (This is to help it slide in better) and coat the inside of the seal with some clean engine oil or it will tear when you start the engine. Slide the seal in straight, it should push in if you use gentle even pressure, if not you could use a block of wood and a hammer, or a seal installer. Just make sure you don't get it in cockeyed, or get it in too far or it will leak. Like someone else said, it should be flush with the front of the engine.

Get OEM plugs, if you can afford to, get the Platinum or Iridium plugs, they are more expensive than stock but they last 60,000 miles or 90,000 miles, not the 30,000 that the regular stock plugs go. If you go aftermarket, get NGK. Most of the tune-up stuff is pretty competitive at the dealership. Don't worry about your wires unless the ends are corroded, or if they are arcing, plug wires last a pretty long time, I've seen plenty of Subarus at work with 180k and the original wires.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf Even has some cool XT6 pics

I wonder if that's what's wrong with my 90? I've swapped in like 4 different valves, and I get the same code, I ended up adjusting the valve manually with the two screws on the top in order to get a 900 rpm idle. I discovered by plugging the select monitor in, the "IAC duty ratio" goes to 100%, and it's supposed to be 40-50% at idle. I discovered a bent pin in one of the engine harness connectors, I think that's my problem but I haven't gotten around to swapping the engine harness out yet lol.

If they aren't clicking, and have just been leaking, you could get a boot kit (~$45 a side from Subaru) and repack them yourself, then you have a set of good axles for next time.

IIRC 95-99 The wiring is there, There have been several people on here de-brighton their cars, even adding power windows and cruise control!

135 or 137 depending on the year. Great score Rob! Sorry I don't have an engine for ya, or I'd offer it, only EA82 I have is a turbo, and it needs a rebuild.

It could have been a faulty casting or something, I think I have some EJ cams lying around if you need one. Keep in mind that even though the car was only $750, it's probably cheaper and more worth it in the long run to fix it, rather than find another $750 car with new problems.

No, I'm referring to the fact that the cam seal is what stops the oil that's in the cam tower from coming out the front of the engine, that oil pools up behind the cam seal, since the drainback holes are halfway up the retainer, instead of at the bottom where they should be, so instead of the oil draining out, it pools up and sits there behind the seal. It's not necessary, and if you aren't comfortable doing it, then don't, but the guy who showed it to me has been a Subaru tech for 30+ years, and he said if you do that they won't leak.

I think that is the one that was in SubieSport, pretty slick setup.

Don't forget the O-ring that is behind each cam seal retainer. Also, when you take the seal out of the retainer, you will notice behind the seal, at the 6:00 and 9:00 position, are two oil drain back holes. If you drill a hole at the 6:00 position, the oil will not pool up in the retainer behind the seal, and hence won't tend to spew oil after a few thousand miles. One of the tricks I learned from the guy I work with @ the Subaru dealer who has been working on Subies since 78 lol (He remembers doing brakes on ff-1s!)

Holy shizz, this place is crawling with ppl who share my birthday! Thanks Rob Tell your son happy B day from his B day buddy lol

Yeah, you'll love it though, they are bad arse cars! The weird "WTF is that thing???" looks you get from people are worth the effort. I got lucky on mine, $800 + $300 for a 12,000 mile old factory rebuilt tranny. SVX network is http://www.subaru-svx.net/ My board name is the same on there.

wow, yet another person with the same birthday as me!

I did the same thing with my 83 GL-10, except I put the power mirror switch where the ash tray was, since 1) I don't smoke and 2) it hit the top of my deck

(click for video) it's alive now I just need my downpipe!:popcorn: (Right now the "downpipe" consists of a chunk of exhaust tubing welded into what's left of the original downpipe, but it just dumps to the ground right behind the front wheel since I was not able to connect it to the rest of the exhaust system)

Update: It's all together and running, just waiting on my downpipe. Don't ever buy anything from Modern Automotive Performance, yeah they have 4" Megan Racing downpipes for $179, but I ordered the damn thing in MARCH, they claim that they emailed me needing a copy of my driver's license (shipping address differed from billing address) but I never got it, (Ever heard of a phone? sheesh...) so my wife called them back, re-ordered it and just had them ship it to our house in Corvallis, and they said we'd get it in 2 to 3 weeks, wel that was like a month ago, I'm about to tell them where they can stick it and buy it from somewhere else.