msmithmmx

The dealer I go to has that long bolt and nut in stock. Makes me think they replace it a lot. I think I paid around $27 for the combo. I have removed two before and the nut broke in the process. For me its about time. If I were to do this again I would buy the parts before hand and cut the bolt. Total removal time would be 5 minutes. Just my two cents

Hello. thanks for the input. I know there is no way the dual zone would work but I still wonder if the plugs are the same and if the driver side would take over and control the entire car.

Hello Everyone. I am usually asking for help with my 98 OBW 240K.. I have a 2012 with analog climate control. Can I just swap in a digital control or is there more to it? Thanks..

Hello, how did you service your duty c solenoid and clutch packs? My AT light has been flashing for 4 years and or 20K miles. I have terrible torque bind and going in reverse gets stiffer and stiffer over the years. Honestly I have yet to read about one post were someone did this maintenance successfully without a single issue. I think the clutch pack needs to go back in in a very specific manner. I also think that there is a high probability of the clutch pack getting unintentionally moved when you put the housing back on. We need a transmission pro to give us some tips. I have a 98 OBW 240K

Does anyone else think that key way is damaged? That does noes not look good. Is the new key snug?

I have a 98 OBW and it had a bad head gasket at 120K. If I was thinking about buying one from someone I did not know I would. 1) Test drive it for hours maybe even a few days. 2) Have a pro complete a head gasket test.

I did the job a few years back myself and I used OEM springs and Monroe struts. If I ever do it again I will buy the strut and spring in one package already assembled. Using that spring compressor is a little nerve racking.

Not bad, you fixed that issue for 100 bucks. I did not know there was heat shields present on the old one.

That looks just like mine. The hardware they are including is worth at least $25 from the dealer. Make sure the front cat and the mid pipe have good flanges. Or you will be connecting a good "rear" cat to bad piping on both ends. My two cents... Exhaust work is tough while on your back. Get the new part and have a pro install for $100 bucks. Imagine what it would cost at the dealer for the same job.

My opinion I would not remove the oil pump unless it is leaking. About your oil leak are you seeing a leak were the transmission meets the engine? The oil separator plate and rear main seal leak on the 2.2. I do agree on the cam seals and I would also do the front main seal. Add in the PVC valve. Get an OEM water pump gasket and use some tact to keep it in place when installing the pump. May want to think about a new tensioner.

What is the condition of the flange on the front cat? I had the same issue and replaced the rear cat with an eBay cat for $100 without issue?

How many miles on the engine?

When I did mine it was clear from the markings that the bearing did spin so I replaced it with a Dorman hub I found on Amazon for $40. I also used a sealed bearing by GMB 758-0003 for my 98OBW "front bearing". The last job only lasted 2-3 years. I did use a new shop to press this last one in. I also just marked the camber bolt to avoid a front end alignment before I pulled off the knuckle. I would have replaced the whole knuckle and tried but bone yard knuckles are 15+ years old and rusted with broken speed sensor and ball joint bolts.

I did drop the brake fluid some but then the brake light went on. In the end is was several things on a 16 year old wagon. I would have bet it was the transmission but it was two stuck calipers, axle, ball joint, wheel bearing, hub and a rotor that all contributed to the problem. I have fixed all of it and if I had to use a shop I think this OBW would have headed to the bone yard. Thanks for the guidance and help. This summer is a duty c solenoid and clutch pack. I am going to finish a thread that was started back in 07 by someone on this forum.

Hello, I did make sure it was at the full line. I pulled the wheel off and the caliper was frozen. I am going to put on a reman this weekend. One thing to note. About 6 months ago I rebuilt every caliper. I have around 1K miles since. Wonder if that kicked this off. I will report back when done.

Does this make any sense? I just finished the job on the front Driver side wheel. Caliper, Axle, Pads, Rotor, bearing and hub along with a break bleeding. I am going down the road 40MPH and smoke is now pouring out of the rear driver side wheel well. I am not a real big believer in coincidences. Any ideas?

Correct on part identification. I need to bleed the brakes. I swapped the caliper and although the line was only disconnected for 3 seconds it was enough to get air in the system. I have been lucky in the past but not this time.

Thank You.. It worked like a champ. Now for some trivia for those that are bored. What did I use to bridge the gap between the jack and tie rod. It is from a Subaru.

Great ideas. I will try the jack method first. Thank You

98 OBW 240K. I am deep into fixing a suspension issue and this is the last problem or so I think. The root cause of this is tracked on another thread which I will update when complete. I was connecting the outer tie-rod to the knuckle yet the castle nut will not tighten past 5 pounds. The threaded post on the tie-rod just spins when it gets any tension. Is my tie-rod end busted? I am hoping not as taking this off will pave my way to a front end alignment. A simple problem has turned into being pecked to death by a thousand chickens. When I list the parts I have replaced your head will spin.

Correct me if I am wrong but to test the fans he could reach under the driver side dash and connect those two green service plugs together to test fan functionality. I third the motion for HG issue. Sickening if it is the case.

Settled, I will grab one off eBay

Hi Dave, I do not see any wear on the hub. Could it be too small to tell?

It just so happens I have a spare OEM used axle from a last batch of parts I picked up. Does anyone reuse the bearing seals? They are 2 years old tops.

Hello, I am back. 98 OBW 240K. This is how it started. Out of nowhere the wagon felt very sluggish like something was holding it back. Drove it for a few weeks thinking it was the transmission and knowing my duty c solenoid is busted I was just waiting the clock out. Then it happened smoke started pouring out of front driver side wheel well. Now I am thinking stuck caliper. So I pulled the wheel off and started troubleshooting. Sure enough the caliper is frozen solid. Knocked it off with a dead blow hammer and then I saw a torn ball joint along with a torn axle boot. That forced me to tear apart the front driver side suspension to start getting everything fixed. Here is my question. When I unbolted the knuckle and pulled the axle out of the transmission the hub just fell out of the knuckle. Does this mean the hub was also spinning in the knuckle? I can push the hub back into the knuckle and get it to almost site perfectly. The shaft of the hub does not look worn but the race is still on so I can't be 100% sure. What do you guys think? Could the stuck caliper have caused this? The wheel did not wobble at all before I took this apart. Anyone ever see the two units just fall apart? I attached a pic so you can all see this wonderful mess.