pheonix165

i'm not sure how into racing you are but cages are cheap, especially if you don't mind doing the work yourself. here's what i think, by far the hardest part...seem welding

i do appolagise for some of my unclear information, one of the ratios is slightly wrong (3-1.448 on the rx dr not 3-1.444 like i posted) and these ratios are taken from the 1986 manual not the 87+ like i thought it was. and as for the final drives i have writen that as i see it in the manual which has it listed at the front not the rear which for the n/a's would be 3.9 (on my 87 sedan) again sorry for not being clear

just for comaprison the gear ratios for the gl 5speed dr: 1-3.545 2-1.947 3-1.366 4-0.927 5-0.780 final drive 3.416 1.000/1.592 rx 5speed d/r: 1-3.545 2-2.111 3-1.448 4-1.088 5-0.871 final drive 3.416 1.000/1.196 gl10 turbo s/r: same as rx minus duel range ratios all ratios are for north amarican spec 4wd cars if wanted i can post 2wd ratios as well

your lucky your in the states because here, any used turbo subaru of its generation, wont sell for more then 1000cnd. so like 7-850usd.

Prospeeder -- it looks like your forgetting one very important detail. turbo's, and i mean all, produce heat...this heat shortens the life of all components, especially the rubber ones. sometimes meaning the life expectancy of cirtain hoses ie turbo intake (hot-side) and coolant (hot-side) is often less then a third of that of there n/a counterparts. i've been doing some research and on this thread i will post gear ratios. to try and keep with my original theme of my thread.

thats actually quite good to here. how bout...whats the max boost on factory internals and controls (ie factory ecm)? and whats factory compression?

okay, rather then start a debate lets move on...power out put is said by chiltons to be about 110hp atfw true?

so hears the deal, there have been a lot of questions regarding this engine/chasis and i have a few questions myself as i am looking to perchase a gl turbo sedan and the search to get the information that i and other new members need would take days of drudging through threads. what i would like is if everyone could volunteer information any usefull information in regards to this topic and then perhaps stickey the thread... to start off i was wondering if someone could answer the claim that the most common problem with this engine is not a blown hg but cracked heads?

saltair has started crushing our model of cars due to lack of interest...malahat has 10-15 wagons just sitting there for the plucking but there not willing to negotiate which means sometimes you pay as much for the jy part as you would at say worldpac or even lordco

according to chiltons the stock power on the carbed ea82 is 70hp atfw. i would actually love to have 80+hp

okay, i had to do this and i'm only 6.2. unbolt the seat and drill out the spot welds. then measure out about 1-1.5" to the rear of the original holes on the seat side. now you bolt the rails to the seat using some low-profile bolts (or weld if your competent) but be careful because factory seats aren't well braced so if you get it wrong it will never feel right again.

which business do you work for?

looks great, where'd you get the front bar and what height and kit are you running

some of you may remember when i got my first soob almost a year ago and i posted a thread titled "subaru must be nuts," this thread prompted almost 6 pages in just 24 hours and i was very happy to see the community that i had been inducted was strong family indeed. i wasn't sure about my car, although a 5 speed d/r of only 201000km when i bought her i was thinking more of a stop gape vehicle than anything else. a reliable transport nothing more. well the winter slush series had begun and i needed to get some seat time in so i could be ready for when my autox car was prepped. i found that the car, although nimble, was not responsive and not very powerful. i was indeed disappointed in the performance in my little ea82 and on top of that she burned up a set of tires in only three months. (apparently when you have negative camber and an aggressive driver the only thing you can really do is tighten up the loose nut behind the wheel) well summer came and my other car was ready for me to drive so i parked old faithful for the next 5 months while i had my fun in my summer car. but the tops on my summer ride started to leak and the breaks wore down quickly with wider then stock tires i installed for my tarmac fun. september hit with some rain and cooler temperatures and i found myself transferring my insurance from the summer ride to the soob just for a weekend rallyx (my very first, ah...good times) the car was very well suited, a little pre-apex throttle and off she went. so many of the more experienced stage drivers would come up and say: "i used to have one of those", or "that's what made me start rallies in the first place". but you is just smile and go about the days fun. after reading some of the more interesting threads on this forum i bought my first tow rope, mostly figuring that i would be the one to get stuck. after a trip to a logging road for the first time in my soob i picked up some 185/80/13 m+s wich actually lifted the car up a bit giving me a measured 9" front and 10" rear. this past couple of days i received something in the neighbourhood of 17cm snow most of it in about 12hours and i found that the car was damn near unstoppable in this weather, yesterday saw a snow plow get stuck on the mountain wich i live. i backed up so he could turn around and then i finished the run without him. board and without power, my gf and i trekked out to see where we could go. i went to my work to see that it was not enter-able and found a neon stuck in a drift. my gf says we should help, so out come the tow rope and we haul her out. then we pass an early 80's Volvo high centered on a drift, they must have been there for a while because they had almost dug a perimeter around the rear of the car for it to try and move, i just shrugged my shoulders and said "one more couldn't hurt"...one tug and out it came. high on my new experience we come across this ranger p/u stuck on the side of the road from the previous snow. i guess the plow had pushed it into the ditch or something like that but it was stuck pretty good. after looking for a tow hook in the front of the truck for almost 10 min when i'm like f'k it and i hook it on a control arm mount and give it one solid tug, the truck didn't move. a guy with a cherokee passes by and stops to watch this very unusual sight "what do you mean, your car is gonna pull this truck?" i just smile and get back in my car when traffic had time to clear. i tighten the slack and revher right out and drop her from 4g in 1low, lit the tires right up and wore the ice right out from beneath me, and a little road pain. after maybe a second out it came. they guy in the jeep just look amazed as he got back in his vehicle and drove away. after i collected my gf and tow rope i turned the car around and the guy with the ranger came up to my window and tried to hand me $10 "this is all i've got on me" he said... "no thanks, i did it for the fun of it..." as i drove away

glad i could contribute, enjoy...

on the hitachi the low idle adjustment is on the front of the carb, if your looking at it from the front bumper it will be to the left of the idle a/f mixture screw. the high idle adjustment is at the rear of the carb wich is around where the throttle cable is but its hard to adjust because its attached to the throttle pulley(? not sure what to call it?) and its best to either have the air filter assembly off the car or to, at the least, remove the spare tire and use a long phillips screwdriver (the star one) *note* the high idle is adjusted proportionately to the low idle, so if the low idle is wrong the high idle will be equally so. there are a couple of us still using the hitachi carb but most ditch it in favour of the much more maintenance friendly webber

out of curiosity when was the last time you adjusted you back breaks?

i've had an 88 nissan pulsarnx (exa to the aussies) for about a year and a half, and its cost me about as much as its worth. its parked outside my house right now (in the rain) and i'm thinking about how much from that car i can swap to my trusty reliable soob gl (ea82). any help is appreciated...

make sure you you do something about the extra electrical load. my alternator wasn't very good at keeping up with it and eventually killed a battery before i knew what was going on

i only have a window of opportunity of about another two weeks to decide as i've switched jobs and vacation pay can only go so far when it comes to cars and travels

any updates on this event?

doesn't msd make a distributor "simulator"?

i'm more worried about the night before but i will keep that in mind...thank you

while i do feel bad about the families plight, this means i have a shot at attending a non local event

i think its hard to think of something for the unlimited budget so i will try again. i want to stick with the wide body type idea i want at least 7 inch wide tires and keeping in mind that i don't wheel the bush i just corner hard and get her sideways when possible. how bout carbon fiber body with tube chassis, ej22t with 07sti heads engine management and transmission. custom tcs and ayc is a must at this point. i've always thought the girl need a bit of a chin so its time to look into that. candy blue with silver metallic base coat airbags would be a good shot two, not just lowrider crap either, i mean performance ones. i read an article in scc that featured a computer controlled system that had flairs at the bottom of the mount and made the suspension stiffer when lowered, the system also featured a self leveling mechanism. well i'm a little stuck here, even with the cf i'm only looking at what, 500 000 at most? this is hard... i suck at this