danbennett2u

not really supposed to adjust idle on these cars its all computer controlled. vibration in gear could be motor mount as well, but I have heard that most subarus have a fairly rough idle in gear compared to other cars. This is the experience I have had with all of mine but they are all higher mileage vehicles too.

Agreed, to get this changed you will need to do a drain and fill 3 times (does not drain all fluid at once), this seems to be the generally accepted way to do this. I just just the cheap Dexron stuff at walmart. No Tranny issues in several hundred thousand miles.

I agree I wouldnt completely trust the mechanics opinion especially if he thinks 150k miles is all you can get out of a subaru. 150k is pretty young for a Legacy with the 2.2 engine. Mine was reliable until I hit about 320k miles, things that are non maintenance related started failing pretty regularly then, but its still my daily driver at over 340k. Our impreza with the same engine runs like new with 190k. I'd fix it, but have the timing belt done at the same time, you can have the two maintenance items knocked out with the same amount of labor and parts for the belt job are cheap. The only concern I have is that you say "it runs (or, I should say, ran)" Water pump alone shouldnt affect how it runs unless it siezed and shredded the timing belt, or if it overheated severely. First case no big deal, second case is a big deal. This is a PERFECT car for young drivers. Sedate, roomy and surefooted.

Most of the people on here own older subarus... but hopefully someone can help. What does the system use as a microphone? Is it something built into the dash? If it is doing this with no background noise maybe the system has a defective mic or something like that. for a brand new car maybe you can address this as a warranty issue?

Im pretty familiar at this point as to items that fail a lot on Gen1 legacys, but specifically for a 95 or 96 model year with an EJ22, what are the common failure points? I assume knock sensors, and probably cv joints and wheel bearings, and of course torque bind, but what else is a common trouble area on these models?

You pulled the plug boots out of the spark plug holes and made sure there is no water sitting down in the holes right? I would think a failing MAF could cause some of these issues but not positive. Sorry getting a little out of my knowledge area but that would be where I would look first.

Figure its worth about 300 bucks as scrap, so value really depends on how it drives and what condition the rest of it is in as to how much over that you should offer.

So it doesnt missfire and have a lopey running characteristic, but it bogs down as if it has no power correct? Since this is an OBDII vehicle, if something controlling mixture or timing was shorted out from water, shouldn't it throw the reading off far enough to throw a code when it is acting up? Just a stab in the dark but worth a shot.

"i got a cat smell" hehe dont let them poop under the hood! ok enough being immature I think the booster hose inlets past the throttle body, so it will clean the intake man and beyond but not the TB. if you want to clean the TB you prob need to put some in a spray bottle as suggested earlier.

Testing it right now Yeah I know it isnt expensive to replace, but its been working fine for a month with no leaks and the heater is killer so I know I have decent circulation. Looking at replacing this car eventually so throwing time and money at something that is still working is not something I am willing to do. At this point it is fix stuff when it breaks, and just keep it on the road until it is not practical anymore. The car is beyond the point of trying to be meticulous about. Buying the dang radiator was really painful to do, let alone replacing a water pump that is still working. There comes a point when just giving up and buying a subaru in better shape with half the miles and working AWD for $1500-2000 is more attractive then wrenching on it with any free time I get. In the meantime, fix what breaks as cheap as I can and move on to the next problem. Next on the list is failed CV joint. yay.

Sorry to drag up an old post but to anyone who reads this in the future, the dripping went away after a while with no intervention on my part. Coolant level is ok and not dropping as far as I can tell. Works for me. This engine is indestructable.

As far as I can tell BKR6E11 and 2756 are the same part. I would go with these, they are the basic copper plugs and work great. No reason to go with expensive long life ones unless you have a 2.5l which I dont think any '95 legacy has. That engine has plugs that are hard to get to if I remember right.

If the dealership checked it twice I assume there is nothing obvisouly wrong mechanically. Maybe a 4 wheel alignment may help (suspension geometries could be wrong). if that doesnt help then I would spring for some new tires, one could be damaged or they might just suck lol.

If you are leaking and pressurizing the radiator at the same time it seems like you have both an internal and an external rupture. It sounds severe enough that conditioner alone probably wont do it, you are mixing coolant and oil and the oil's functionality is compromised, so it will do more damage if the conditiooner doesnt stop the leak. at 180k miles its more cost effective to throw a used engine in there I would think.

25mpg is about right for these vehicles in mixed driving. As others mentioned subarus in general arent extermely high mpg vehicles ( the ratings for the 2012 impreza do impress me though) I would be surprised if you get more than 27 or 28 regardless of what you do to them, unless you are driving it on the highway exclusively for the whole tank (one speed up to hwy speed, only stopping when refueling as in a long road trip)

Found it on legacycentral, looks like around 8ish seconds.

Just curious, What kind of 0-60 performance does a early Legacy turbo automatic have stock.

oh you are in canada so 233k is probably km right? Plan on a replacement of HG's if there are no records of this being done. or just let it leak and keep it topped off.

yes, although its not as severe as the 99 and earlier 2.5 engines. And it fails externally so it will just show up as a coolant leak. Although at 233k miles it would have probably already been replaced at this point.

Actually they aren't really a diff generation... impreza was gen1 from 93-99 wasnt it? so the 98-02 forester would be based of of the first gen impreza platform right?

As fairtax said... you really need to provide the duration of the noise to determine whether it is piston slap or rod knock. If it goes away when warm its probably piston slap. If not you have bigger problems most likely. I wouldnt go off of what someone told you it was unless you told them if it goes away or not. If you have a constant knocking and a missfire in a cylinder something could be internally broken causing both issues. Kind of out of luck there.

Are there bubbles in the overflow bottle when the car is running? Anything milky on the dipstick? Does sound like head gasket though. Main reason I wont even consider a 90's 2.5

probably the wheels too if it doesn't need to be able to roll on its own.

Stuff I would grab if I had room: passenger side sun visor motorized seatbelt system knock sensor wheel hubs ( to replace the damn bearings that fail all the time ) plug wires (sucks to pay close to 50 for a new set when they fail) probably lots of other stuff too

I get a lot of parts from Blakes Small car parts in Erie, but I think they have mostly new Gen stuff, not sure what their EA8x selection is like. Parts are always high quality, have warranty and price is reasonable. People there have been pretty friendly to me too.