danbennett2u

No it doesnt thunk at all, just random tinking when moving, almost sounds like a rock in a metal hubcap. Tinking and vibration is all I have.

yes

Can I just remove the driveshaft or part of it somehow to keep the car on the road until I can get the whole thing replaced?

how do you replace u joints or a carrier bearing, does it involve dropping a driveshaft? any special tools needed to do that?

I started getting this strange seemingly random spaced metallic tinking/clanking noise from the front of my car when 900 miles home. Car made it home fine with no other symptoms of problems. It sat for a few days, and when we went to drive it again, we noticed a fairly severe vibration mainly upon acceleration but noticeable under deceleration as well. It feels like it is in the driveline, as in I can feel it in the rear of the car. Almost like torque bind but it is occurs when going straight and turning makes no difference. I know I have a noisy wheel bearing in the rear but this feels more severe than a wheel bearing.... like I said its almost like heavy friction as in torque bind. It does not occur at speeds over 20mph at all regardless of how the accelerator is being pressed. Any ideas on what this might be, and if the clanking might be related? 95 impreza 2.2 auto awd.

Ordered a radiator from rockauto, just make sure what you buy is small/light enough that you can ship it back for a reasonable amount of money if it fails within warranty period. My rad failed after less than a year and I would have had to find a new box and pay for return shipping on a radiator. Not happening

Blue smoke is oil, and if I am thinking correctly if it happens under load it is rings, which is unusual for a subaru. Mileage means less than maintenance history when it comes to the EJ engines.

I didnt think you used the CEL light for OBDII models which would be anything post 1995. If you want a reliable and more detailed readout of codes run the car down to an auto parts store and they will read any stored codes for you, which will be much more telling than any CEL readout. *edit, just saw you are in Stockholm. If you are not in the US I am not sure if my advice applies.

Not sure if it matters but does your thermostat have one of those little holes with a loose metal stopper in it? I believe that is an air valve that allows air to bleed out of the system when the thermostat is closed, the last thermostat I replaced did not have one but the replacement did. Just a shot in the dark on that though.

I would just get one from a junkyard if you are going to replace it, that way you are staying with OEM stuff, and it will be a lot cheaper than $200

I was under the impression that both run on the high side.

I will post lol. Awesome that you got it going, sounds like a lot of work, I dont know if I would be able to do the same thing without a lot of help

3 owners in 35k miles and 4 years puts me off a little. Plus any modifications to a WRX makes me think someone liked to run it hard at some point.

Just an update, the spectra premium brand radiator failed on me just after Easter this year, so it lasted less than a year. I would have had to pay return shipping and find a box so the warranty was pretty useless since I bought it from an online retailer. In the future I would recommend buying one with a lifetime warranty from a local chain If you do get a bad one as I did you are kind of out of luck if it fails unless you go this route, unless you happen to have extra radiators laying around.

I am going to agree that this sounds simply like you need to replace the radiator, and fill it properly. Air in the system will make it SEEM like the radiator is full but if you have coolant all over the engine it has to come from somewhere, and no heat = no coolant in heater core.

Actually the underside of the belt looks pretty good, no cracking that I can see. still going after another month and a half, but hoping to get around to this soon.

95 Impreza didnt have power locks and windows available at all for some reason even on the outback models. I think they were available on uplevel models before and after but not positive. It is possible the door panel was replaced with one from a different car.

If your dealer is unable to diagnose this you need to find a different dealer. This is not an old unusual vehicle. Check engine and brake lights are things they should be able to diagnose easily. I think they should also be able to address the idle issues too fairly easily. If they are not able to and are telling you "it will cost a fortune" take your business somewhere else, and I would demand the diagnostic fee back (whether they give it back or not) since they didnt really diagnose anything. Take it to autozone etc and have them use the code reader to get your diagnostic codes from the CEL. It sounds like the dealer figured it was evap related, but if it is running rough too there is probably another problem as well?

could you just make something like that with some strip metal? not sure what it is called but its just a brace right? I would think buying one OEM will be significantly more expensive then fabricating something to work?

I had some milkiness on dipstick and oilcap on my 2.2 and no bubbles... Guess there is an exception to every rule though... and I had 344k miles

link makes pic really small, attached pic in thread is bigger. http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh498/ivansimports/ryans%20car/th_005.jpg

The worst thing driving in FWD will do is wear out the duty solenoid. It wont affect how it shifts/drives, so if you have no AWD already, and are looking at replacing the whole thing it wont hurt anything.

They are worth whatever people will pay for them.. most of the FSMs on ebay are in PDF format on CD, so its kind of hard to tell. Looks like some for the justy didnt sell, some older ones out there. Try posting it on ebay with a reserve for the lowest you will take and see how it goes. Thats about all I can suggest.

sorry mines a 95, not interferece. and the idlers dont make noise. I guess I should plan on getting a belt at minimum though, the consensus is that is pretty bad. maybe original?

I cant afford anything right now, let alone a $200 timing belt kit.