Uberoo

seconded

I have two fans on my offroader.Both came from a 90 nissan pulsar.I had to modify the frame of the fans to fit in front of the radiator.I dun't know how much air they push but its alot.I can turn them on at 35 mph and still cool the car down.

its doable but unless the body is MINT than its too much effort, especially when 4wd Xts can be found fairly easily..

are you gonna make that into a motorhome or something?

might need a bit of clearancing.those tires look like they might rub a little on the inside..zzz what size tires are those?

I only applied one coat.the rustoleum paint is really strong especially if you let it cure before scratching it.My friend painted his truck about 2 weeks ago and you could barely tell where the scratch marks were aside from the marks in the dust/dirt on the rig, despite he broke trail.Mine cured for about 1/2 day and it held up better than most single stage automotive paints.Most of the scratches probably could literally be buffed out.touch up is really easy for the spots that wont come out because the paint bonds well to metal and even better to other paint,just a scotch brite pad to scuff up the area around then apply more paint..

I had some rustoeum hunter green in a quart just taking up space in my room.So I mixed in a little bit of rustoeum black.Then thinned the paint with some paint thiner.Then A friend sprayed the car with his paint gun.It turned out really nice.I let it dry for about a half day.Then I proceeded to SCRATCH THE EVER LIVING HELL OUT OF IT when I took the car up a heavily over grown track on a mountain. the "track" used to be a tunnel access road for the railroad,but the railroad has been closed down for quite some time.The track was very steep and sadly very short but it was still lots of fun.I didn't get any pics of up there,I wanted to, but my phone chose that moment to die. My friend got a few cell phone pics that are up on his bookface.Maybe next weekend we will head up there again and get some better pics with some camera's.As for now here is a couple pics of the paint job.I went from silver,black,grey,rust to a dark green with lots of scratches.Still its a big improvement... Before: After:

tempo= any front springs-when i put them under my ej swapped EA82 wagon,I cut a full coil out and it STILL lifted the front end an inch.in your case you may need to cut more. accord+ I think mine came from an 89 automatic with AC.I believe the automatic/ac cars are the springs you want.Front springs as well. no idea on 4 runner parts.

I fixed some stuff,then I broke some stuff: all the brake pieces in my LR drum,My rear driveshaft got knocked out of balance that cracked a small section of the mount for the transfer case and broke a weld for my rear diff mount... wheel,break,fix/upgrade,repeat.......

while we are on the subject of axles how strong would EA82 front axles be in a non steering application?I played around with a spare front EA82 axle and it could provide 10" of wheel travel before it totally binds up.So probally 8" on a car.Its biggest restriction was the inner DOJ.The inner DOJ wouldn't flex worth a crap. Ea81 rear axles probally can tolerate maybe 5-6" of vertical travel, because they are short and have DOJ's at both ends. is there a CV that can tolerate high angles AND plunge?

turns out that the area around the adjuster was packed so full of dirt that it couldn't possibly move. vacuumed all that out.Now to lower it so hopefully it isnt as stiff.

I tried to use a jack to compress the suspension and check for clearance but that just lifted up the car without compressing the suspension.So I used a come along to pull the wheel into the fender.I pulled the wheel until it was about 4" from my fender. at that point I thought the cables would break on the come along.it didn't rub on anything.This car before I put the 31's on cleared 235's with only the torsion bar cranked up with lots of fender bashing.Now it has an 8" lift at all the cross members so it should be fine. only thing I regret is that the come along put a big dent in the car,but it was already beat up anyway.

all of the times Ive broken axles have been at low throttle.Im not one to floor the gas pedal at any chance I get.. the axle I exploded the rear diff was on a rock and the left rear tire was tucked into the fender when the left axle exploded. The lastest axle broke when I tried to crawl up a steep hill made out of compacted sand.was going up it slowly and then SNAP.broke the bell and shattered the retainer... all the other axle breaks have cracked the outer bell. all the breaks seems to happen when the rear suspension is compressed.if my rear axles are sitting flat at normal ride height I wonder if my axles have too much angle on them when compressed?

Ask and ye shall receive: unfortunately they are only garage pics.The only pic I have of it offroad with its new altitude was when all the bolts holding the left rear on got loose and the tire fell off.Not a very good look for it all... as far as the bolt goes to make sure Im not a complete idiot(parts are missing) to lower the rear end I need to turn the bolt counter clock-wise looking at it from above right?

I removed both shocks entirely from the car still no change in ride hight.Although the left shock was so blown that as soon as I removed the top bolts it collapsed under its weight.The right side is just fine...oh well.Now nothing is holding the back end up aside from the torsion bar. is it possible that the adjusting center section could be caught on something and not releasing?Ive tried hammering on the torsion assembly but no change.

I put my 3/16 pin punch in the hole when I reinstall an axle before I tap in the pin.If the pin punch wont easily go in all the way then its off by a tooth or 180* off. Now I only have trouble with pins in cars in junkyard with the original axles..

breaking just the stubs might be better, because I can fit 10-20 of them in my tool box without taking up too much room... But then if the stubs break flush with the diff and the end of the axle it would be a pain to fish the pieces out to install new stubs..

I can jump on the back end and it moves a fair bit.Then comes back up...Although the RR does seem to be stiffer than the driver side

When I first lifted my EA81 wagon, I put 2" blocks on the front struts and cranked up the rear torsion bar. Now I have a full 8" lift on everything.In addition to that I removed alot of weight from the car.So I would like to adjust the torsion bar all the way down and re clock the splines to regain the height that would be lost.Problem is Im turning the adjusting bolt (counter-clockwise) and its coming out of the torsion bar assembly with no appreciable height difference. What would cause that, and how to fix it? I need the back end to be softer. I unloaded my car off my trailer without ramps.So the tires dropped about a foot then landed on the ground.The rear was rock hard and the front was nice as soft the way IFS should be..So with the rear so stiff its gotta be killing wheel travel..

thank you I didn't know the difference in construction between earlier and later.I just thought the latter stuff was stronger because it was a little bigger.

whats broke? left lower ball joint in the front tie rods are bent both rear brake cylinders left rear wheel worked itself loose-tore up the mounting holes in the rim,destroyed the studs, and destroyed all brake components on that tire. broken rear axle cracked taillight missing high beam light driver's sanity...

before I installed a divorced transfer case I never broke a rear axle on my EA81.Never in 4 years of offroading ea81s.Now with the transfer case and 31's I snap the rear axles like a twig every time I go play.With in the time span of about about 2 weeks I have Exploded a rear inner DOJ,and broke two separate inner DOJ's.Ive run out out of spare axles parts so now I need to make a run to pull and save to find some more spare parts.while I am up there I might as well upgrade the axles if I can. Ive heard of EA81 shafts with EA82 DOJ's at both ends.So that might be a possible fix.Early legacies have the same style rear diff any one tried putting the legacy DOJ on an EA81 axle shaft? I know questions like these are the kind of question monstaru likes to flame me about, but pull and save is 2 hours and some change away.So I can't really just go and return a part that wont work.especially now that im driving my moms suburban around because the towing company I bought my car from is jerking me around when it comes to the title... before I used to worry about my front axles,both of my fronts have torn boots and click when I turn yet they have easily outlasted the rears... when I set the car up I lost a couple inches of ground clearance to make sure all axles were flat to try avoiding this problem.

is there a bigger version of the post 81 one?

I am NEVER moving east of the rockies.The most rusted car Ive owned had its fenders eaten away by road grim getting stuck to them.even still it was only the last 2" of the fenders before the tires.Underbody was clean. My offroader sat in a field for years so it has some small holes in the rails under the doors...and its an 83.The main subframes under the car are just fine. good luck fixing all that.

I can't see any pics but it is possible for a push rod to "slip" off its indent in its holder on the cam, usually because of very loose valves.When it slips off it will get stuck on the block and hold its corresponding valve slightly open. undo the 17 mm bolts and make sure all pushrods are properly seated in there indents in there holders.hold them in place while you bring the rocker assembly to contact. I unfortunatly haven't adjusted the valves on any my subaru's for a while so I can't help you with clearance numbers or procedures...sorry.The last engine I set the valve lash on was an 82 mazda diesel...