Uberoo

if you have any trouble balancing the tires you can try putting in a few airsoft bb's in them for "dynamic balancing".Theres a chart somewhere online that will tell how much weight is needed to balance a tire this way.I think the tires on my truck (235-285/75/16) require about 500 BB's a tire.Its a little more expensive up front than conventional balancing but I got my tires 2.5 years ago and have never needed to balance them. very smooth riding tires.despite the fact that I haven't rotated them either they all wore very evenly aswell. Ive heard that swampers are the worst to balance.Any offroad tire is tough to balance by conventional means when you go offroad and knock the wheel weights off or get mud packed on the rim... So it might be worth checking into the bb's.use the plastic airsoft bb's so they don't rust together... just need to drive faster than 20 mph for the balancing to work.but the balance doesn't get thrown off when the tire is packed full of mud either.

I have an 83 GL wagon that I pulled the steering column out to do some work on it.The works all done but now I can't quite get the steering column all the into its proper place in the firewall.Is there something I should be doing to make it easier?I don't want to break anything by pushing to hard. thanks in advance.

how about home cheepo louvers rather than a scoop?

there is one vacuum line on the carb. it should be down low near the base.Thats for the disty.There should be a single line that goes into the firewall.that line may split if you have cruise control. If you have the intake manifold off you can remove the vacuum loom under the manifold as well as a whole bunch of sensors/mechanical devices for making the 5hitachi function.

not all FWD vehicles are good in the snow.I had a 93 legacy 4d sedan that was Fail wheel drive.even with brand new snows it wouldn't make it up any the hills around here.The car understeered badly so you would loose all of your speed/momentum coming into a corner.Then the poor thing would struggle for every inch of forward movement out of the corners.Even in 5th gear it would overload the front tires and you would start slowing down.It was common to have the car going less than walking speed up a hill. I remember thinking that I never had any problems like that in my RWD's so I switched over and haven't looked back. however .*some* fwds are good in the snow.my first car was an 87 saab 900S and it would happily push snow up to the headlights on summer tires...

convert EA82 to 1,000 aluminum cans to help pay for ej swap...

you can connect the two PCV hoses to a T connection then connect that to the airbox.The only vaccum line that is needed is a vacuum advance on the distributor and the line for the heater.Everything else can be removed.

I must be insane then.My daily driver is RWD with a welded rear diff and it does just fine in the snow.Then again I live in the mountains and FWD sucks on the steep hills around here. any 2wd car will be fine in the snow as long as you know how to drive it and have snow tires. Why would you put weight in the back of a FWD subaru wagon?Thats more weight working against your front tires.I don't even put weight in the back of my RWD vehicles. RWD cars: 1993 volvo 240- welded diff,1982 datsun 200sx-open for now.Both cars are manual.

4 ply tractor tires so its about the same.

The design of ATV/UTV/tractor tires makes the tires not suited for going much more than 25 mph on any hard surface.Those tires are made out of really soft rubber with large distances between sections of tread.Atv's are constantly driven on dirt roads,yes.the hard surface of the road wears out the tires much faster than if the tire was driven on its intended surface,ie mud or loose dirt. So for that reason if you plan to run aggressive tires like that just change them out when you get there.It takes maybe all of 30 minutes to change out all 4.Less if you have air tools. I ran a set of tractor tires like that for a summer and they still had the little rubber bits left over from the casting and the tread was worn down less than 1/16" of an inch.Or you can leave the tires on all around and destroy them in a season- even though "its only a couple of miles." Remember atv tires despite their weight ratings are made out of a rubber similar to erasers,and erasers, at least for me don't last long at all. the tires are ;however, fantastic at doing what they were made for-driving on loose,soft surfaces...

both. run the 9" tires on the front and the 11's on the back.

I don't have any tools for measuring angles or thread pitches.Even if I did I don't know the max angle that the steering joint(s) can work at.Maybe rather than being a wongleflute about it you could say: the joints only can take 20* of deflection before they bind up bad.So do some math and find out if the will work in your appiation so much better than yelling to mesure parts...

how is that trolling? one eyes post wasnt very clear on if the double joints in the stock setup bound up or not.It sounds like he had to move the column downwards and use double joints to get it work. regarding the brakes what size are the fittings at least for the front?

so a 6" lift with double joints binds up still? or did I read that wrong?if 6" double joints will work I suppose I could modify the firewall so the shaft comes out 2" lower.

I have 2X8 blocks on the crossmembers.Then the struts are getting 8" to match the crossmembers(no suspension lift).

I'm in the middle of doing an 8" transfercase lift on my ea81 wagon.I have most of the lift blocks in place and the thing is massive! I have two questions right now. One: the steering shaft is at a pretty steep angle stock.Will I be able to just extend the shaft or will it bind up?83 wagon non powersteering. Second: Rumor has it that the rear brake lines don't need to be extended for up to 10" of lift or so.Mine seems to have a pretty big gap that needs to be filled.Or am I supposed to remove all the rubber lines from the trailing arm and just let them hang? Thanks in advance.

What are the size of the bolts for most if not all of the suspension-body bolts on an 83 wagon?I just got all the steel for my lift, So im looking forward to start taking it apart to get some height on it.I would like to have all the holes in the blocks drilled and the bolts ready before I start.. 8" lift...Then I will join the blocks together and build a subframe for the nissan transfer-case to mount to. BTW I will be using the factory bolts to hold the blocks to the body,then some other bolts to hold the suspension pieces to the blocks.

Is there a way to "lock" a differential to get the stub shafts out?I have a couple of 3.9 diffs that their only use is donating various parts,ie stub shafts.Problem is that both of these diffs are out from under a car.I don't have impact tools.So I need some way to lock the diff solid so I can unbolt the stub shafts.Any suggestions? also what size are the stub torx bits?Ive heard E10 and 8 mm socket.

shift on the fly 4wd.Clutch in when going from lo-hi,vice versa

did the DR come from a turbo model?

what vehicle? for EA81: 4-6" lift is typically needed to clear 27" without cutting For Ea82 2-4" lift EJ stuffs 2-3" lift

did one side look oily or shinny?

how did the clutch disk look?

Is it going to on snow covered roads, or out in woods on lots of snow? If the latter I suggest a wider tire so you will float on top of the snow a bit better. Probably nothing taller than 27".I would also recommend a welded rear diff if its gonna be on deepish snow,if the terrain is uneven one tire will loose traction and dig itself to china while the other tire will have lots of traction.Then your stuck. Even though its on snow in the winter you need to make sure your cooling system is up to the task.I suggest replacing the radiator,water pump,heater core,and all the rubber hoses.Including the tiny hoses on the intake manifold. A 5 speed dual range transmission out of a latter subie would be alot more durable than the standard 4 speed.It might be worth upgrading to it. Bring a couple of spare axles,and some tools to change them.ONE spare tire is MANDATORY,two might be even better put a couple of offroad lights on it,and a higher amp alternator.Depending on availability a 80-100 amp alt from a 80's GM vehicle is a pretty easy upgrade.

buy it.steal rear disks.Part rest of car,then scrap car body.depending on scrap prices you may get like 100 just for the shell.Then you just need to sell ~ 60 worth of parts to break even. plus the car will usually have some gas in the tank unless someone drained it...