pamike

i never thought of that. if i don't find one at the right price today i'll just do that.

i'm going to try to get one at the junk yard tomorrow. thats why i needed to know what years are the same. but if i don't find one i'll let you know

my module is bad and i need to get one. does anyone know what years will interchange? it allows you to take the car out of park when you press the brake pedal. mine is a 90 legacy. here is a pic of the box http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/shiftlockcontroller1.jpg thanks, mike

my current job is rebuilding racks. iirc on a subaru their should be a seal and snap ring then on top of the snap ring should be a dust cover. i really don't see how the snap ring could come loose. maybe you pushed the dust cover back in and the main seal is only leaking very slowly and the dust cover is holding in the fluid. this is probably how the cover came out, fluid built up behind it and pushed it out. subaru racks aren't really all that hard to rebuild yourself. i have the proper seal drivers at work to properly install the seals but if your very carefull it can be done with a sockets and extension if you can buy the seal kit somwhere nipper, you are right about reman units. when we do have problems with them leaking and they are returned, i feel it's mainly because the person assembleing the unit is careless and damages the new seals in some way or misses things they shouldn't. the seals we use are expensive and i feel are good quality and should last a while if installed properly.

i've done this to both of my legacy's. my 90 and my 96 useing the stock tophats and springs. i didn't have any problems with allignment on either of them.i just took the car to the local allignment shop after installing them. no excessive tire wear. i'm running 205/75-15 tires on my 90 and 215/65/16 tires on my 96.

i don't know if it will help but i'm running 215/65/16 grabber at2's on a 96 legacy with outback struts. i don't know how much different the 2000-2004 struts are though. i've got plenty of clearence between the tire and strut. if i went bigger i'd probably rub on the rocker panel and front bumper before the strut would be a problem

it is a street only jeep and doesn't get driven in the winter because of the salt. it actually see's monthly car shows in the summer. i bought it from the original owner. it's a 1974 and has only 56,000 miles on it. the best part is i only paid $400 for it. it was completly stock when i bought it. i never intended to use it for offroad but i came across the 6" lift for $150 and i couldn't pass it up. i currently own 3 of those jeeps, what can i say it's an addiction.

you mean like this http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/pamike/jeep/SANY0110.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/pamike/jeep/SANY0100.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm132/pamike/jeep/SANY0489.jpg

my 90 legacy lugs are the same way with 96 alum. wheels. i've been running it that way for years now and never had an issue.

how hard is it to change/remove the switch. does it involve removing the steering wheel and dissassembly of the column?

i checked the taillight bulbs and got 0 volts with key off. the parking lights are dimmer than they would normally be with the switch on. with the car running i turned the switch on and the lights got brighter than they were with switch off if that makes sence.

for some reason i couldn't get the miliamps to work on my multimeter. but i did get the amps to work. it read .010 amps. i then checked my 90 legacy and it read .030 amps. so i'm assuming that amound of draw is normal. that being said, i talked to my girlfriends mom (the po) and she said somtimes she would let the car set for almost a month and it would start right up. so it must be some kind of intermittent problem. what could it be. and when i turned on the parking light switches either the one on top of the column or the headlight switch the lights got brighter. their is no voltage at the bulb with the car off.

i didn't get a chance to check it tonight. it was pouring down rain.

i have not pulled the radio yet but i have pulled the fuse in the fuse panel for the radio and it still went dead. i did that for a while, pulled a fuse and left the car set to see if it went dead. i will try to get a amp reading at the battery after work.

i think their is a fuse for the dome lights. iirc i pulled that fuse one time and it still went dead. i know it's not the battery because we went through 2 advance auto batterys before buying an interstate. which is what is in the car now, it's been their for 3 or 4 months now. i've checked the alt output and i thing it was around 14v. if i get a chance tomorrow after work i'll try testing for voltage at the parking bulb. and i'll get a reading of how much the car is drawing when everything is off.

ok i can try that

yes i'm familiar with that switch. my lights turn off and on with the key. when my key is on i can't turn off the lights. the switch on top of the column will allow the parking lights to be on even with the key off.

i have pulled the under dash fuses and iirc i think i pulled the under hood fuses also. the only thing i found to have a big draw was the keyless entry which had a couple fuses under the dash, but not in the fuse box. i pulled them and the draw went way down. the garage i took it to found the same thing. they said the only thing they could find was a draw from the keyless entry system. what is an acceptable amount of voltage drain?

would this being bad make the car idle very rough when warm. i'm have a rough idle and if you listen to the tailpipe you can hear it sputtering alot. otherwise it runs great. and no cel's

i'm sure it's not the batt. or alt. it has a new interstate battery and i've completly disconnected the alt. with the batt still connected and it still drained it. lately i've just been sure to start it often to keep the batt charged

i keep headlight switch off but in either off or parking light position makes no difference. it's always done this. we've owned the car for a few years now. the instrument cluster lights also come on when the key is in the accessory position. like when i'm listening to the radio. i never thoughts this was normal and i've never seen this on any car ever. it also has a problem with draining the battery that started about a year ago. if we let the car set for more than a day or 2 the battery is completly dead. i don't know if its related or not. we've had it to the garage and the only thing that was found was the keyless entry was putting a big draw on the battery but it still goes dead after all the fuses were pulled for it

yea i allready know about that switch. but when i turn the key on or run the car the parking lights are always on. almost like daytime running lights but with only the parking lights and not the headlights. is their a way to disable this? i have a 02 wrx and i disabled the DRL's by unplugging a connecter under the dash by the glovebox. is this also possable with my 96 legacy?

the front marker lights and tail lights stay on all the time when the car is running. this is a 96 legacy ls. how do i disable this? and i've always wondered why they put a parking light position on the headlight switch if it doesn't do anything? the dash lights also stay on all the time, even when the key is in the accessory position. is this normal?

well they all have 12v

do i do this with the car running or not running even if the iac needed cleaned would that cause problems at just idle or all the time.