Nomad

Yep, I've done it. Works great, except that you need a way to oil the compressor. An inline oiler works, THEN you need an oil water separator on the output side... Need to get my hands on a York compressor, you bet it's gonna make things simpler; they're self oiling. As for a walk through, I'll post later after work...

My car <which is now Rear Wheel Drive> has been bumping/banging near the rear diff on applying power. Looked under there today, seems the front hanger bushing <up above the input flange> is pooched. Anyone have a part number? I'm presuming that's a stealer-only part. If not, other sources <read CHEEPER> appreciated. Any input on changing that sucker? It LOOKS fairly straightforward... Thanks!

Yup. Their diffy has flange outputs, while ours uses stubs... so they change 'em over to flanges to use our LSDs. But really no point in going the other way, since we're the ones with the desirable LSD anyway. There's an page describing the swap, ill see if i can find it.

I need one! Another mechanic was lookin over my Sube, and he lost the cap... Subes are really hard to find around here, yet I am NOT buying a new part from the stealership. Is there any other car/model/make that'll fit an EA82? Thanks!

here in Toronto, most of our techs are morons who just go by what their computer says the car is s'posed to have on it. For example, if your vin says the car is a v6 and you drive it in with a v8, they get all confused and wonder how the computer could be wrong. There is a "hot rod" clause in our testing laws, however... it states that if the car has an engine/drivetrain other than stock, it must be tested by 1980 year standards. The trouble is, most of the techs either don't know about it or just pretend not to know. Me? a few ball bearings in the right places and 3-5 gallons gas to one gallon of methyl hydrate in the tank. AFTER a complete tune-up of course... Good luck!

Because she <my D/Ranged wagon> just won't quit. Starts on frigid <-32 degrees the other night brrrr!> mornings, carries all my tools (well, MOST ) decent mileage, easy to work on (even though the aftermarket SUCKS!)... And, the BEST is the look on loser neighbours faces when they intentionally plow me into my driveway with a three foot high embankment, and I just drove over/through it on the way to work Wednesday morning. That, and hauling a stuck fullsize Chev van out of a ditch the other night was cool too! Sure, she's let me down a coupla times, but in retrospect, they were no biggie, coulda been worse. I don't think i've ever owned a more reliable machine <although my 84 Grand Prix comes a close second R.I.P.> Long live the Mighty Subie!

Those are some excellent products. Too bad I live so darn far away... Keep up the good work!

My 89 DL <pretty much same as Loyale> wagon does the same thing. Course, i'm pretty sure it's brake fluid hasn't ever been flushed; not many ppl think to do it. Soon as springtime comes, i'm going to do that... Also, 99obw's got the right idea about the guides. My car's got a rear disc kit on it, so I'll need to check those too. Good Luck!

Give me some of THAT!? Are those commercially available?

LMAO!! :grin: :lol:

"stuck in 4wd? what the hell's the problem then? " That's funny! You'd figure it wouldn't really be a problem... But i do need to be able to go from 2 to 4 and back, this is a <mostly>street driven car. Okay. You guys are awesome... my local mechanics don't know a thing about these cars, even the local import "specialist" never has a clue... he's ALWAYS got something to say though. The linkage is fine. The tires are the same size. There is no drivetrain bind. I checked all that before i posted, just couldn't write it up. 'preciate the thoroughness... Anyhow, I got it into 2 wheel, by playing around with the lever. It does go all the way down. It just doesn't always shift. Having put the trans in the car, I learned that the two linkages (2 to 4 and then Hi/Lo) are actuated in sequence. Hi/Lo works fine. So therefore, the system is getting through its whole range of motion. "1. The pin that hold the shift fork in position on the shift arm, somehow came out while you were in 4wd. 2. The shift fork is either bent of broken. 3. The shift fork is worn out enough that it doesn’t move the syncro ring far enough to disengage the syncro. If you decide to open things up and take a look, the good new is that you do not have to split the transmission. Every thing in the transfer case is accessible by taking off the inspection plate that's on to of the transmission." GlCraigGT, I think you're absolutely right. I was hoping it might be something else, that I didn't have to get inside the trans for, but at least the good news is that i don't have to split the case... just might still have to drop the trans though... I'm HOPING it's reason number one. Number two seems more likely, but still fixable. Number three is possible, but the way the shfter feels when I push down. Its like it'll finally "catch" on somthing, and then it'll disengage gear; but if there's ANY bind or resistance in the shift, it'll slide past the engagement point and not do anythng, it stays in 4x. A least NOW its in 2x and I can figure it out as I drive it. <groan> and just in time for snow. Anyone have a dual range or parts for one up near north? I'm in Toronto, Ontario... will be somewhere in NY next month I think... Thanks for the help all! I really appreciate it. By the way, I LOVE how this board has evolved over the past few years. There's a TON more info here for the old Subes than anywhere else! Let's keep it up!

Hi all! My dual range is stuck in 4wd. Went to shift from 4 to 2, the lever went down, and nothing happened. It didn't FEEL like I broke anything. I can still shift between hi and lo, but I cant get it to go back into 2. This kinda sucks. I'm glad I can still drive the car, but tight turns are impossible. Any thoughts? Thanks,

Thanks for all the Subaru help and support in 2003...:wave: And all the best for 2004!! Keep the Subes Rollin and don't party TOO hard!

They are replaceable. My Dad has replaced two of them for me in his shop: one from the front half, one on the rear of an EA-82 shaft. Granted, they are staked in, but the joint comes with instuctions on how to install it. as i recall you'll need a REALLY bfh and a good bench vice. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/ Part Number 430-10. The joints are excellent quality, and are even regreasable. Rockwell's stuff can be bought at a good parts house. Mine were $50 CDN each <like 2 dollars USD > out the door. If they can't find Subaru in the application, just use the part number. As a side note, Jaguar uses these same joints in all their old XJ-x series cars up to mid 90's... those beasts weigh like up to 5000lbs and the independent rears are good to 500hp, so i figure these joints are strong! However as Qman said, you need to find out what's blowin 'em in the first place. Good Luck

Whats a 22b?

May your Grandfather's heavenly Brat be guided by white light.

Great job! is that a 70-75 amper in there? Your install looks a lot simpler than mine. I kept the A/C compressor, so I could use it for onboard air. Wiring is almost exactly the same as mine... I kepth the alt end stock GM and found a Subaru connector to mate with the car harness. Joined 'em up and off I went. Coming up on 2 years, no probs at all. Man, I REALLY need a digital cam... Later

Sheesh, Phatbrat, you beat me to it!

What exactly about the heater is not working? Not hot air? No fan? Both? No ideas on the headlights...sorry.

I like your analogies... I come from a really old-school background of fabbing and hot-rodding. Grew up with Big Block Chevelles, Novas, T-Birds, Beaumonts and of course, the odd blown 454 Chevette. Old chevys are really easy to swap/work/mod by comparison, because the engine management (on a chevy? now there's an oxymoron) was REALLY simple. Making those things go fast only took shoving the biggest engine/blower/header combo you could find in there, to an extent. Now Subaru is another story. I like the creativity available to us: a plethora of flat engines, 4/5/6 speed manuals, turbos, sohc AND dohc, a fully indepent AWD suspension/drivetrain. Wow. The only REAL challenge, is getting the damn beast to listen to you when you talk to it about electronics. But, it can be done. And I found out through a late night on the 'net, that Corky is absolutely correct. The aftermarket following for the WRX also applies to the Legacy in many ways. But the ej22t is a better engine in my eyes, now, simply because it's a closed deck block. I'm guessing that's why the WRX engine craps out at 300hp, because its an open deck.

The rims are from a mid 80's Mazda pickup, like a "b2500" or something or other... I see them in yards around here all the time. The lug pattern is the same as on toyotas, but I THINK the hub centre might be different. THe 225's rubbed on both my front fenders, and *just* on the inner fenderwell on a really tight turn WITH a bump <i tested by going up a sidewalk and a parking barrier > I say "minor" beacause the car has weak front springs and I haven't gotten around to putting others on yet. I don't recall anything rubbing on the suspension. Also, the 225's on these rims bulged A LOT! the rims are 5.5 inches wide, and I had the really "convince" the tire machine that yes, in fact, that tire does really want to go on here... Be warned. The rims I used were *very* tight on the centre of the hub, and I turned the hub centre down bit, like a 64th or so? Not much, but I don't know if this is a Mazda thing all around, or just the year I chose...I just found the first truck with five rims <need a spare > and pirated them. Painted them black and off I went. Actually, another reason I chose these is that taking the extra width into account, these wheels are VERY close to the very strange offset that our Subies use. The net result is even with a tire thats almost two inches wider, it only sticks out about an inch. A friend of mine says it the "most pissed-off looking little car she's ever seen." Of course, she's never seen some of your guys rigs... What I REALLY want to do, Is get a set of 15" chromed 6 spokes like on the later model Mazda trucks, and I think I've seen them on Pathfinders, too. Use those and a set of low profile stickies on my <hopeful> Project 3 Door. WJM, you seem to have a similar idea. The only thing keeping me from going that route is that I realised that the 5 lug conversion not only means more rims <i'm not really into style, anyway> it may also mean access to a load more whoa to match the go... bigger brakes are always a good thing. Sorry I don't have pics. I don't own a digital cam. But Santa's on his way. <I hope he forgives my being naughty...I mean really, BOTH those girls came on to ME... :santa:> Any other q's, just ask!

Thats exactly what I did. I used Mazda rims, as in my sig. The tires are 215/60R14, with no rubbage on an unlifted vehicle; I even tested 225's and they worked with only minor rubs on hard turns/bumps. That becomes less of an issue with a lift and different tire combos. I'm not ready to lift mine yet, so I stuck with "more streetable" tires. Go for it! PS if you want rear discs, don't do what I did. Get the discs FIRST and THEN do the drilling... ...

That looks really cool!

Oh wow, what happened to that poor Impreza? I hope the occupants of the little beast came out okay... As for the Darwin, those awards are a little too counterproductive to suit my liking. But i'd sure as hell LOVE to join the 200plus Club out at the salt flats. Not with this car, though. Anywho, so far I get that a US Turbo Legacy would be my best bet for a donor for MOST parts. EJ22T...how similar is this engine to the phase 2 2.5? IE are they the same basic block/dimensions ie will the heads intake etc exchange?..this may be a non-issue, I just want to build up on my interchangability knowledge. Now, Why won't the WRX engine hold up as well, out of curiosity? 280-300 is about my upper limit anyway, 'cause this is a light car... but I get that would be pushing a wrx? I'm also guessing that these bellhousings all carry the same pattern. Did Turbo Legacies come in anything other than 4AT?Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the info all. I really appreciate it. I like to know what I'm getting into, parts and source-wise As for being a little on the crazy side, well, I've always dreamed big with my other cars<shrug>... So Why The Hell Not with a Sube? EDIT: thanks for the vote on the EJ22T. You posted as I was writing this... I think I know what I'm going to use, now That info on the 6MT is helpful, as well; I had no idea. Thanks

Okay... now that I've got your attention :santa: ...That's about what I want to end up with. Now THERE'S a car I could be naughty with! Still determining the feasibilty of such a project. Looking for info on swapping an EJ series engine into an EA82. The recipient will <hopefully> be a 3-door. (Depends on me aquiring said fine machine.) I would like to use the largest EJ available <would that be 2.5?> as well as its tranny and driveline, or if not, at least the most common available, for finding parts... and then possibly build a custom twin turbo and FI system for it. I've read of reliability issues with the 2.5, is this true? Hell, maybe I can find an SVX 3.3 and Turbo THAT! :santa: From what I've read so far, the 25 spline turbo manual OR XT axles will mate to an EJ trans... but how about their length? is the trans the same width <or close?>as an EA? Will the EJ rear diffy work with EA rear axles? The diff cases look similar. A custom rear driveshaft is necessary from what I've read. I'm not really considering the 5x100mm hub swap, UNLESS its an absolute necessity, as XT's are a bit hard to come by around here. Also, what cars should I be looking for in yards that would have the 2.5 or other appropriate EJ in them? I'm still in the process of searching the archives... just wanted to throw the question out there. Man, if I could do this... you bring the Honda... I've got the Knife and Fork! Any appropriate info sources appreciated! Thanks,