BruceyWV

She was a beauty

I can hear the buzzing on all the newer 4EAT's I've come across, its really apparent at a drive through window. It isnt there in neutral or park.

Transfer Case is what the technical manuals call it, and it probably will be easier to replace the entire thing because its typical what is bought when you buy a subaru transmission: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-Subaru-Legacy-4eat-AWD-automatic-transmission_W0QQitemZ290058180354QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33727QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Front Diff, Transmission, and 'Transfer case'

I dont plan to do it, just trying to get the info out for others that might want to. I'm MORE than happy with my transmission, espaically lately, there seems to be a lot less auto lugging with it with the rebuilt finally running. What about VTD 4EAT's that natively send 45/55 and can send as much as 10/90 to begin with?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251957&highlight=10%2F90+4EAT First relevant link I found, I guess the next step is to have someone contact Rally Knight?

Except you're forgetting that at least in the VTD 4EAT in the WRX and H6 Outbacks, its essentially an electronic differential, and is plenty possible, I'll try to find the vague info about it, some guy does it at his shop.

Why you gotta be a hater? Now I'll have to dig up the few posts I can find on it.

I wonder how this one works? http://rallispec.com/prod_elecsys.htm It doesent show any sensors for each wheel, cant it just use the ABS? I've also heard its possible to reverse the split on automatics, so its rwd bias, and 10/90 most of the time. (90 on the rear wheels)

"Well, we can go to LA Today, or Detroit Tommorow"

Eh, I'm just pointing out that the Mark VIII is just a Ford Mustang in a tuxedo, and ford never gets good 'reliability marks' but the biggest problem with mine was the seatbelt wouldnt latch unless you turned it backwards.

This sucks, I still havent gotten any snow in my area. Whats the hold up? It snowed until may last year. Looks like fun stuff, as usual.

I had a 97 Mark VIII in 2002 (4 years old) with 230,000 miles. Didnt burn any oil, but I hydrolocked it when we had a flood. (First car too ) That transmission is still running, with no rebuild, in another Mark VIII of the familys, so the transmission has to have at least 300K on it by now. As long as you take care of them, most cars will last forever.

You know, this could be why I could never get my old steelies to balance. Forester steel wheels will work though, of course?

Got the accessories, ECU, and harness, was going to buy the engine but it was going to be 3 weeks before i got it, + wiring job. Work requires I have a car. Didnt have much a choice once I started losing money. Just got an old one back in, when it goes I'll put the H6 in since I already have the parts, I'll probably order the engine soon, or spend the dough on a tiny lift.

yup, and that price is much more acceptable than the 2 inch body lift for 900$ + shipping at renick.

Identical to what happened to my 2000. Sept mine was a lot more violent.

I have absolutely nothing to add to this thread other than: "Hey, there are other WV people on here!"

Well, this answered my questions: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54492&highlight=forester+outback+strut The Outbacks (what I already got) seem to be the tallest.

So, would scott just need the strut tops to make a set of spacers for them, or the entire thing? I figure while I'm in there, I'll replace the whole unit, struts/springs/mounts and sell the old ones, I'm sure someone around here would want them, at least for the springs. The strut tops arent going to add too awful much to the price.

Honestly, I wouldnt bother either. Same with the Solenoid C Switch, the system on the phase II 4EAT hasnt let me down once so far, and if it aint broke dont fix it. I just wanted to make sure everyone knew anything was possible

Arent mine taller than a forester's begin with?

Read away. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853105&highlight=torque+converter+lock

TC Lock up = no slack in the driveline. Unlocked = slack. It usually only locks in 4th gear cruising on the highway, but it can also on long hills in 3rd. I'll try to find more info from the Nasioc thread.

I know nasioc people have hotwired the TC to lock up, the drag racing folk. Its just a wire, similar to the duty C solenoid. so I guess if you fed it the current it would unlock.

The Fuse is located in the fuse box in the engine compartment, near the washer reservoir.