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how does this work? does the spray deodorant make the oil leak contrast better?

i dont know about you guys, but when i clicked on either of those links, the page would come up, and then a split second later it would forward me to a new page, with no way of going back. i had to copy the link into a new window and view it that way. im not real convinced that either of those sites actually have taillights for anything.

by different do you mean better, or just different due to different dimensions and/or tolerances in the head and cam tower?

+3 for radiatorbarn.com go with the 2-row, you wont regret it.

i know on my bike (93 cbr 600 f2) the engine braking is way higher than either my wrx or my wagon. it also has 12:1 comp ratio. i think the spfi CR is higher than the carb. the high-comp turbo guys seem to go for the spfi blocks in their builds. why do you want more engine braking anyway? even if youre doing a lot of downhill coasting, replacing pads should be easier than rigging up something to make the engine slow you down.

thats the first ive seen it. id be willing to say its a very very good chop job. it looks cool, but its doesnt set itself apart from the styling of the legacy to make it a legit concept car. lets just say i hope i eat my words.

when you install the mbc, splice it in the line that runs from the boost control solenoid to the wastegate diaphragm. and like everyone said, dont go nuts with the boost!

the race motor you were building?? i may be interested. which intake manifold does it have?

do you mean to see if it starts, or just purely turns over?

i need to swap the engine in my 89 t-wagon. i still have yet to do a leakdown test (need to figure out exactly what that is first) but im thinking the rings are shot in cyl 2. getting an engine from the junkyard is the only thing i can afford right now. i know to check for oil in the coolant, and to check to see if t-belts are intact. what else should i be looking at to ensure the motor in question is in good shape (without major disassembly)?

ok, i think i see what youre saying. if thats the case, im thinking you would benefit more if you had bigger valves with more lift, maybe a larger intake manifold.

you cant turn boost down to less than what the wastegate spring is set at using a MBC. youd have to replace the spring. and am i wrong in thinking that 7psi is 7psi, no matter where its coming from? the only difference should be the amount of work used to compress the air.

dynamat or the spray insulation/undercoating. just be careful with the latter, it puts off some nasty fumes that seem to linger more than spray paints.

i thought about that too, but i think id get stuck in a wiring nightmare. im not quite ready to tackle megasquirt or an EJ swap let alone both at the same time!

gonna keep all the stock internals?? how much did the shortblock run you, if you dont mind me asking?

an engine swap was in the back of my head; however i dont want to put in a motor that has the same problems or worse than what ive got now. i did email CCR on monday morning, but im still waiting for a response. :-\ still not 100% sure what im gonna do. it would be stupid to replace the car right now with an impreza. i wouldnt find an imp with full disc brakes, lsd, etc within my price range. i know i cant full on rally the wagon, but i still want to rallycross it!

well since my last 'wagon woes' post ive fixed a few things on the car (89 ea82 turbo wagon). i replaced the timing belts, water pump, acc belt, cam seal gaskets, oil pump gaskets, and the radiator & hoses. resealed the area around the sunroof delete too. 3 weekends ago, i peeked inside the rad cap and noticed it needed some coolant. it took a pretty big gulp to top it off. the reserve was empty too. this raised a red flag. (please not blown HGs!) i did find that the coolant hose coming from the turbo was leaking slightly, but i dont know if it would have leaked that much. i also found a 'creamy' deposit on the underside of my oil cap after parking in the garage one night , but havent seen it since. the car has been idling strangely also. idles ok off a cold start, then 5 mins or so after the car has warmed up the idle magically increases to ~2500 rpm. it holds that peak for about a minute, then drop offs suddenly to ~1000 rpm, and then build back up to 2500. it will continue to do this, with oscillations becoming more frequent as it runs. it will idle normally after about 10 mins. this is irritating, but im more concerned about the next part. i tested the compression this weekend to see about the HGs, but i think i need to do a leak down test? to see exactly whats going on. cyl 1 was 110 psi, cyl 2 was 65 (95 w/oil added), cyl 3 was 122, and cyl 4 was 125. would a leak down test be able to definitely tell me if i had a leaky head gasket or bad rings? vacuum has always been low too; 12 in/hg at idle, 14 on overrun (leaky intake manifold gasket? shot rings?). noticed a white deposit on the plugs when i pulled them to test compression, too. i think i could do head gaskets, but if its rings, i dont know... :-\ is anyone whos made it this far through my rant able to offer any advice?

the coolant temp sensor is on the top of the block, off to the right of the turbo. the connector is rectangular, and the hex part is either 17 or 19mm. i think the thing youre talking about on top of the thermostat is the idle air control.

that should be a sound investment. i didnt see anything at thepartsbin.com, but a new oil pan would be even better (if theyre still in production that is.) if its just surface rust, then just give it a good sanding and a good coat of paint.

now i see that youre not a fan of dealers, but CVM always does me good when im ordering parts. you dont need a vin number, and the guys at the parts counter have been working there for a while, so they know older soobs.

im going to do this tomorrow, er, today. any other tricks or tips out there? im probably going to pull the fuse for the fuel pump before i start.

hellas are ok, im partial to kc daylighters (aptly named).

cool, just gimme a ring or send me a pm if you want help.

matt, if you need someone to help you test fit to double check, youre more than welcome to try to put one on my wagon.

what was the make/model the intercooler came from?